Topic: '67 Tilt-Away steering wheel vacuum can

[Bossbill]

SNIP ...

TESTING: Pump (with a Mighty-Vac or similar vacuum tester tool) the center nipple with the outer nipple open to atmosphere and you should not have any leak-down on your (Mighty-Vac) gauge. This should hold essentially 'indefinitely'.
... SNIP

Hope this helps.

Ah, so my can tests good. Good to know. I'm cleaning it up as we speak.

Thanks for the help.

[67GTAConvt]

To add my 2 cents:

I have an early model 67 convertible with factory installed Tilt and A/C verified by the Marti report.  It only has the single oblong canister mounted on the inside of the passenger fender apron.

Since the oblong canister does not have the built-in check valve, there is a single port check valve installed next to the heater water valve.  The vacuum hose goes through the firewall and is split (and reduced) to the A/C and the tilt solenoid.  I'm pretty sure the split was incorrectly routed because the tilt was disconnected when I bought the car.  So, I'm a little unclear on how that reduction works.  I get that it has to reduce to go to the A/C, but the tilt requires the full size hose and pressure.   That is part of another conversation.

I'm going after the check valves.

Now, a later model 67 would have the coffee can style can in the fender well AND the can under the battery tray.  Both cans would have integrated check valves in them, so... there would be no need for the extra in-line check valve.  Right?  Then, I don't see documentation on where the vacuum hose from the tilt can would connect to the tilt solenoid.  It seems to reason that the A/C and tilt would not share cans and you would have two large dedicated vacuum lines going through the firewall and then routing to their perspective accessories?

To complicate things even more, I'm adding Speed Control to the car so I have to add the can under the battery tray.  It makes sense that the can has a check valve and two nozzles.   The outer one has the check valve (and goes to the manifold), the inner one is wide open and goes directly to the Speed Control head unit.  This makes sense because then the add-on can would then be dedicated to the Speed control.

It seems to me that you would want the tilt to have the dedicated can since you wouldn't be using Speed control a lot.  Unfortunately, all of the instructions I have seen seem to show the install sequence of A/C, then tilt, THEN Speed Control, so it gets hooked up last.

[67gtasanjose]

RE: Hose routing for adding Speed Control. Refer to the article in the Library.
RE: The under dash T connection for EARLY version Tilt Column,  the connection is under dash and was pictured earlier in this thread.  Go back a couple of pages and you will find a picture of the T and the specifications of the T itself. It is a very strange part. It actually splits the 1/8 inch hose and increases the hose connection to connect to a 1/4 inch hose for the tilt column. In other words it is not a reduced connection. Obviously the engineers decided this method was a poor design so they made changes in the middle of the year.

[67gtasanjose]

RE: Hose routing for adding Speed Control. Refer to the article in the Library.
RE: The under dash T connection for EARLY version Tilt Column,  the connection is under dash and was pictured earlier in this thread.  Go back a couple of pages and you will find a picture of the T and the specifications of the T itself. It is a very strange part. It actually splits the 1/8 inch hose and increases the hose connection to connect to a 1/4 inch hose for the tilt column. In other words it is not a reduced connection. Obviously the engineers decided this method was a poor design so they made changes in the middle of the year.

ADDENDUM:
When arranging UNDER DASH hoses and making the under dash T connection for the Tilt-away column, be sure and follow EARLY 67 underdash vacuum diagrams. There was an EARLY diagram and a LATE diagram in FORD Service manuals (pending date of printing). This is yet another aspect of the running changes of the vacuum diagrams for the 67 Mustang.

For what it is worth, any aftermarket vacuum hoses or vacuum hose kits, seemed to typically follow the later 67 vacuum diagrams. Also, the reproduction vacuum hoses for use under the dash, are not color coded like the original hoses. They typically have color labels on them, not colored stripes on the hoses.

[67gta289]

The vacuum hose goes through the firewall and is split (and reduced) to the A/C and the tilt solenoid...  I get that it has to reduce to go to the A/C, but the tilt requires the full size hose and pressure...  It seems to reason that the A/C and tilt would not share cans and you would have two large dedicated vacuum lines going through the firewall and then routing to their perspective accessories?

The early 67 has very small vacuum hoses - the last leg that is increased in diameter that goes to the tilt wheel vacuum motor is not because it requires full pressure (vacuum).  The small upstream source line is the limiting factor, the larger hose at the end does not change the dynamics.   IMO the vacuum motor was lifted from the Thunderbird, and the Thunderbird had a lot of vacuum operated accessories, and its vacuum distribution was a larger diameter all the way around.  Making that odd plastic tee was probably the cheapest way to integrate it when both were optioned.  Even in a tilt optioned car without A/C, there would need to be an inline adaptation from the vacuum canister smaller diameter to the tilt vacuum motor.

A/C and tilt shared cans was not a problem.  If you think about timing, when does the tilt-away function?  Not while driving, which makes the vacuum load zero under driving conditions, leaving the vacuum fully available solely for air conditioning valve modulation.   Speed control however would add additional load at the same time that the driver might want to switch A/C modes, so the system design would need to take that into account.

[67gtasanjose]

...Even in a tilt optioned car without A/C, there would need to be an inline adaptation from the vacuum canister smaller diameter to the tilt vacuum motor.

I do not believe that part of your above statement was true on examples provided or reported thus far. We have only a few reported EARLY 67's with Tilt-Away without AC and thus far (correct me if I am wrong) those examples DID NOT USE the oblong canister with the small (1/8" I.D.) vacuum hose nipple.
For example, username 7R02A shared images of the canister found on his Mid-December built example and it has the two 1/4" nipples with the built-in check valve (exact same as the one later fit under the battery tray with a second bracket). Also, other larger "Tomato Can" types have been found on early N.J. built examples equipped WITH tilt but without AC, also with both nipples being 1/4" so those Non-AC cars would not use this odd T or have another reducing/enlarging vacuum fitting IMHO, going by those previously shared example as a basis of my opinion.

[67gta289]

Richard, thanks for the reminder, I think that you are correct in all respects on that.  I'll chalk my incorrect statement up to lack of coffee.

[67GTAConvt]

Thanks for the great info--but, I'm still a little unsure on what to do.   It didn't occur to me that the under dash tee increased the hose size!?

Part of my problem is that I am adding tilt wheel to my brother's later model 67 and I am adding Speed Control to my early (built Dec 66) 67.  I'm currently rebuilding the tilt columns on both cars, so I'm focused on this accessory but I'm factoring the Speed control project in as well, or, at least how it interacts with the tilt..

I'm also not looking to be absolutely concourse correct, but I want to be as close to some kind of restored factory correct as I can.  I'm not worrying about colors on hoses or paint daubs, but the obvious things like correct vacuum cans/brackets/bolts, hose routing/size, proper Tees and check valves are very important.  We do plan on driving these cars.

So, for my brother's mid year, factory A/C car, I would need a tee coming off of the manifold and a large hose leading to the outer nozzle (check valve) of the can, mounted under the battery tray.  I then run a large vacuum line from the can directly to the tilt solenoid?  It looks like it would use the same firewall hole as the AC line?  I wouldn't need the 'increaser' Tee on his car.   He also wouldn't need an in-line check valve because both the tilt canister and the A/C canister (smaller can in the wheel well) both have built-in check valves.  Correct?

For my early year factory A/C and tilt, I keep the large can inside the fender apron and route the smaller line to the A/C as before--using the 'increaser' tee (which I have).  I keep the single port in-line check valve that leads to the large vacuum can from the manifold.  That is how the car was set up and shouldn't effect the Speed control.  So, when adding SC, then I would add the tilt can under the battery tray as directed in the installation instructions.  I run the large hose from an (added) tee from the manifold to the outer nozzle (the check one) and a large vacuum line directly to the SC control unit from the center nozzle (no check).    At least, that is what I'm gathering from the installation instructions.  Sounds correct?

[67gtasanjose]

Thanks for the great info--but, I'm still a little unsure on what to do.   It didn't occur to me that the under dash tee increased the hose size!?

Part of my problem is that I am adding tilt wheel to my brother's later model 67 and I am adding Speed Control to my early (built Dec 66) 67.  I'm currently rebuilding the tilt columns on both cars, so I'm focused on this accessory but I'm factoring the Speed control project in as well, or, at least how it interacts with the tilt..

I'm also not looking to be absolutely concourse correct, but I want to be as close to some kind of restored factory correct as I can.  I'm not worrying about colors on hoses or paint daubs, but the obvious things like correct vacuum cans/brackets/bolts, hose routing/size, proper Tees and check valves are very important.  We do plan on driving these cars.

So, for my brother's mid year, factory A/C car, I would need a tee coming off of the manifold and a large hose leading to the outer nozzle (check valve) of the can, mounted under the battery tray.  I then run a large vacuum line from the can directly to the tilt solenoid?  It looks like it would use the same firewall hole as the AC line?  I wouldn't need the 'increaser' Tee on his car.   He also wouldn't need an in-line check valve because both the tilt canister and the A/C canister (smaller can in the wheel well) both have built-in check valves.  Correct?

For my early year factory A/C and tilt, I keep the large can inside the fender apron and route the smaller line to the A/C as before--using the 'increaser' tee (which I have).  I keep the single port in-line check valve that leads to the large vacuum can from the manifold.  That is how the car was set up and shouldn't effect the Speed control.  So, when adding SC, then I would add the tilt can under the battery tray as directed in the installation instructions.  I run the large hose from an (added) tee from the manifold to the outer nozzle (the check one) and a large vacuum line directly to the SC control unit from the center nozzle (no check).    At least, that is what I'm gathering from the installation instructions.  Sounds correct?

I believe your answers are hidden within this thread and this other thread:

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=5644.0

It will take some time but I believe you will then see why it is difficult to answer you using unrestored or unmolested examples since there are so many running changes on these options and it looks as though there are differences depending where it was built. 

In the end, you will become as educated as I am or you will just give in to the path of least resistance.

Once you decide what you feel is your best answer, bounce your results off of us and see if we concur.

CLUE: The easier one is your brothers car if it has No AC.

[Bossbill]

SNIP ...   If your battery tray does not have these particular holes, it may be because the tray has been replaced with an aftermarket battery tray or the tray is out of an early production '67. In that case, to locate the holes, refer to the LIBRARY section on 1967's, in the Speed Control installation PDF, http://concoursmustang.com/speegle/Instructions/67/Article-67CrusiseCntrl.pdf I believe it was on page 13 where the relocation instructions show the intended locations to drill the holes on the early production style battery tray support braces. Later production trays, as I said, already would have the holes regardless what options the car has or does not have, all 4 holes would be pre-punched for locating the canister there.

Richard

How early is early here?
I have a 12 4 D2 stamped tray I recently purchased and it has no holes. It's going in my March 67 SJ car --  would it have the four holes? I think March is considered "late".

[Bob Gaines]

How early is early here?
I have a 12 4 D2 stamped tray I recently purchased and it has no holes. It's going in my March 67 SJ car --  would it have the four holes? I think March is considered "late".

That later production 2684 barn find 67 GT500 in the recent you tube video has it original battery tray and it has the holes. It is at a friends shop and I noticed that detail recently. I would add the pattern to your tray and error on the side of caution given examples with the hole pattern after the build date of your car. I have seen others.

[Bossbill]

That's a really neat find on that car.
As always, appreciate the help, Bob.

I'll use the tilt-away PDF for the hole location.
Appreciate Jeff making that available.