Topic: Hood Letter alignment

[Deuce]

Have read several posts here about difficulties experienced when aligning badging and letters on replacement body sheet metal.  I'm about to experience this as well.  The rusting hood on my '67 is about to be replaced with a painted, very straight and nice '68 hood.  As we know, the '68 does not have F O R D metal letters pinned on the front.

My question: Does a template exist for placement and aligning of letters on the replacement hood before holes are drilled?  An alternative would be the press-on repop letters; I have seen those available from NPD.  Same issue, however; getting the letters lined up right.     

[67gtasanjose]

...Does a template exist for placement and aligning of letters on the replacement hood before holes are drilled? 

Good question. I haven't looked at the other threads you mentioned but I will share my experience.

At this time, I have no need for such a "template" but I do know from experience that getting the "pin letters" correct can be a VERY difficult job. Same for any of the fender badges, trunk & fender "M U S T A N G" lettering. The problem isn't as much the spacing because even with a paper template, including having all the correct measurements of placement etc., you can still get the drill bit to "walk a little on the wild side" ever so slightly & foul up your job TERRIBLY! It would seem that a tempered STEEL template, firmly secured to the project would be the only "safe" way of getting it absolutely right in one try. Should any body repair (bondo/welding) be underneath the paint you are almost guaranteed a problem drilling them correct in "one shot".

Maybe others have another safe way but for me, after getting all the measurements set up by say, using the old panel to make a template from, tape the template onto the project. With a very sharp QUALITY center punch (like a machinists spring-loaded punch) mark the panel. I like the spring-loaded punch because it has a constant impact pressure and pattern. A "hammer & punch" seem archaic once you've used the spring-loaded variety. Then, with an extremely sharp somewhat undersized bit, drill each hole with a very light pressure, carefully watching for the "wild-side-walk" of the bit. Test fit each letter and adjust the hole(s) up in size towards the proper sized required, trying to use a bit no larger than the naked "pin"of the emblem is. Hopefully, if you got the holes right on the money, there will be no directional "adjusting" of the holes. Once the pin letters fit the way they ought to (without the clips) then, and only then drill the holes up to the correct size & install the clips. If you push the clips in before the fitment is correct and say should the holes be off ever so slightly, you'd have another headache that even with much alcohol or pharmaceuticals, you won't be able to get over the "pain" created 

Hope this helps some

Richard

[jwc66k]

Same for any of the fender badges, trunk & fender "M U S T A N G" lettering. The problem isn't as much the spacing because even with a paper template, including having all the correct measurements of placement etc., you can still get the drill bit to "walk a little on the wild side" ever so slightly & foul up your job TERRIBLY! It would seem that a tempered STEEL template, firmly secured to the project would be the only "safe" way of getting it absolutely right in one try.

I did a "transfer" type measurement of the MUSTANG on a factory 66 GT LH Fender. I found that the holes "walked" a lot (two words). I attributed the misalignment to what you stated and included wear and tear on the template. Here's the fender with some letters loosely in place and a straight edge for comparison. Close is good, don't try to be perfect, the factory was not making concourse grade cars.
Jim

[mtinkham]

One idea for a template would be to cut an original donor panel and use the factory holes.  Reference lines could be scribed into the panel prior to cutting and used for alignment in the future.  The panel would not serve as a very good drill jig, but it could be used with a center punch to transfer the holes to the new panel.

There are center drilling bits available that have a very short length of bit cut into a larger diameter bit.  This type of bit is designed to reduce the walking.

Mark

[priceless]

Deuce,
I have a '67 coupe daily driver that had to have the trunk lid replaced with a reproduction. The trunk lid fit very good, but did not have holes for the lettering.
 I opted not to go the route of drilling holes (TOO MUCH CAN HAPPEN!!!). So, I went with the stick-on letters (Remember, all new cars for the past few decades have used stick-on lettering). I'm a machinist by trade so I know how to read calipers in .001".
 What I done was used a pair of 12" calipers,(graduated in .001"). It's was close because it's approximately 11 3/4" from the side of the trunk lid over to the letter "M". I used the 12" calipers then used 6" calipers when measuring from letter-to-letter.  A friend of mine had an original trunk lid so I measured from the left side of the trunk lid over to the left side of the first letter "M". Then, from there I measured from the "M" to the "U", then "U" to the "S", then so on. I wrote down all those measurements from the dial calipers (you can use digital calipers as well).
 Then, I measured from the bottom of the trunk lid up to each individual letter and wrote down all those dimensions.

Remember, I was measuring from the left side of the trunk lid over to the left side of the first letter "M", then from letter-to-letter.
It turned out really well.

You can do the FORD lettering this way on a hood as well.  I have took a few pics to show you how well the lettering turned out. It was dark when I took the pics, so I'm going to take some more tomorrow with the garage door open in natural light.

Hope this helps.
 

[drummingrocks]

I have a '67 coupe daily driver that had to have the trunk lid replaced with a reproduction. The trunk lid fit very good, but did not have holes for the lettering.
 I opted not to go the route of drilling holes (TOO MUCH CAN HAPPEN!!!). So, I went with the stick-on letters (Remember, all new cars for the past few decades have used stick-on lettering). I'm a machinist by trade so I know how to read calipers in .001".
 

I've seen Richie's '67 in person, and the lettering is absolutely flawless.  Compared to my original trunk lid '67 with pin-on letters, his actually looks much better than my factory original.

[priceless]

I've seen Richie's '67 in person, and the lettering is absolutely flawless.  Compared to my original trunk lid '67 with pin-on letters, his actually looks much better than my factory original.

Thanks, Bro
It took patience more than anything, but it slowly came together.

[priceless]

Just took this photo in natural daylight. The letters turned out exceptionally well. By looking at it the "N" may look a little off, but Hey, Ford original letters on alot of their Mustangs were off a bit.

Hope this helps.

[dave6768]

I've seen Richie's '67 in person, and the lettering is absolutely flawless.  Compared to my original trunk lid '67 with pin-on letters, his actually looks much better than my factory original.

But won't that get points deducted if they are too straight? 

[drummingrocks]

But won't that get points deducted if they are too straight? 

There's a picture of his car above, I think he's in good shape.     That really is a good question; would I get points counted off if I went back and aligned my letters using a laser level?

[priceless]

No points will be deducted for straight letters.

[Deuce]

Follow-up:

Used advice given here; e.g., careful measuring, press-on letters and I took my time.  Turned out OK!

Hood is from '68 donor car, originally Yellow.  I painted the hood Dark Moss Green to match original paint on the rest of car, including underside of hood.

Q: Did many 1967 Mustangs come with underhood light?  According to window sticker, the underhood light is part of Courtesy Light Group which included lights for hood, trunk and glove compartment.  All lights are still operational.

Thanks for the good advice; I am very satisfied with the result and the hood letters are aligned straighter and spaced more accurately than the original '67 hood with chrome metal pin letters.



 

[ruppstang]

Deuce,
I would not say the Courtesy light group was common, but nether is it rare.
I happen to also own a 67 GTA convertible that has the option.

[priceless]

Follow-up:

Used advice given here; e.g., careful measuring, press-on letters and I took my time.  Turned out OK!......

Looks really good !!

[drummingrocks]

I happen to also own a 67 GTA convertible that has the option.

Marty, not to get off topic too much, but was that your Moss Green GTA convertible as Savannah?  It was parked inside in a corner.  It had deluxe Saddle interior.