Author Topic: How to tell original disc rotors - 64 / 65  (Read 4126 times)

Offline livetoride60

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How to tell original disc rotors - 64 / 65
« on: November 25, 2014, 01:48:10 AM »
Not finding any threads on how to tell if you have original or replacement rotors.  I've heard something about whether the fins are staggered, but not finding any examples.

Here are mine, from an Oct 64 San Jose K code fastback.  They have K/H on the bolts, but think I remember that service replacements could still be Kelsey-Hayes.

Also, the hub where the grease cap mounts is a little different on each one.

Thanks,
Rich
'65 K code Fastback, 4sp, San Jose, 10/9/64
'66 C code Coupe, C4, Dearborn, 5/24/66
'67 Fairlane Convertible, 3sp, 200 I6

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: How to tell original disc rotors - 64 / 65
« Reply #1 on: November 25, 2014, 03:48:49 AM »
Not finding any threads on how to tell if you have original or replacement rotors.  I've heard something about whether the fins are staggered, but not finding any examples.

Here are mine, from an Oct 64 San Jose K code fastback.  They have K/H on the bolts, but think I remember that service replacements could still be Kelsey-Hayes.

Also, the hub where the grease cap mounts is a little different on each one.

Thanks,
Rich
Look at fins from the bearing side for staggered .
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline livetoride60

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Re: How to tell original disc rotors - 64 / 65
« Reply #2 on: November 25, 2014, 01:04:52 PM »
Look at fins from the bearing side for staggered .

Thanks Bob.  Assuming you mean from this angle.  Fins look evenly spaced to me, unless I'm missing something.  Assume from this they are replacements.

'65 K code Fastback, 4sp, San Jose, 10/9/64
'66 C code Coupe, C4, Dearborn, 5/24/66
'67 Fairlane Convertible, 3sp, 200 I6

Offline livetoride60

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Re: How to tell original disc rotors - 64 / 65
« Reply #3 on: November 25, 2014, 01:06:49 PM »
Noticed one has different stud markings.  Also took the pic of both together to show the difference in hubs where the bearing caps mount.

'65 K code Fastback, 4sp, San Jose, 10/9/64
'66 C code Coupe, C4, Dearborn, 5/24/66
'67 Fairlane Convertible, 3sp, 200 I6

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: How to tell original disc rotors - 64 / 65
« Reply #4 on: November 25, 2014, 08:31:44 PM »
..........  Also took the pic of both together to show the difference in hubs where the bearing caps mount.

The one on the left looks very unusual to me
Jeff Speegle

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Offline hopeto

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Re: How to tell original disc rotors - 64 / 65
« Reply #5 on: November 25, 2014, 08:41:24 PM »
Here's a pic of one off my 67K that was replaced. I "think" the stagger you're referring to is how every other fin is lower than the next one.
Original one owner 84 GT Convertible with 1800 miles. 65 Silver Smoke Gray K Code GT Coupe - 65 Cyclone - 67 Vintage Burgundy K Code GT Coupe.  1970 Calypso Corral Boss 302 - 2012 Yellow Blaze Boss 302.

Offline Brian Conway

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Re: How to tell original disc rotors - 64 / 65
« Reply #6 on: November 25, 2014, 11:06:00 PM »
     These are C5ZZ service replacements.  Fins are not staggered, no lip on the hub and the studs have a similar marking.  Brian
« Last Edit: November 25, 2014, 11:09:21 PM by Brian Conway »
5RO9A GT  4 Spd Built 5/29/65
9TO2R SCJ 4 Spd Built 9/19/68
Owner Driver Mechanic
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Offline 67gtasanjose

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Re: How to tell original disc rotors - 64 / 65
« Reply #7 on: November 26, 2014, 06:54:03 AM »
     These are C5ZZ service replacements.  Fins are not staggered, no lip on the hub and the studs have a similar marking.  Brian

CENTURY stamped in the casting on the inside of the rotor looks suspicious to me.
Anybody else get that "rub"? I seem to recall that name as an aftermarket provider to the service industry.

Did FORD use CENTURY as a supplier possibly for service replacements?

Richard
« Last Edit: November 26, 2014, 12:50:15 PM by 67gtasanjose »
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) GTA Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Int./Ext. Decor +many options

2005 (04/05) GT Premium Convertible, Windveil Blue, Parchment Top w/Med. Parchment interior,  Roush Body Appointments

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: How to tell original disc rotors - 64 / 65
« Reply #8 on: November 26, 2014, 12:36:28 PM »
CENTURY stamped in the casting on the inside of the rotor looks suspicious to me.
Anybody else that that "rub"? I seem to recall that name as an aftermarket provider to the service industry.

Did FORD use CENTURY as a supplier possibly for service replacements?

Richard
I have a set in the ford box like that too so I only can assume that they were a authorized OEM replacement and not reboxed by anybody. Besides the main thing is finding a two piece rotor because you are not going to find a staggered fin service version easily. They evolved into the later style probably 40 years ago. Now you are lucky to find even a two piece replacement (separate rotor hat and bearing hub) let alone a early service staggered fin one. A usable used staggered fin rotor is the best you can hope for anymore if you can find one. The over the counter one piece replacement rotor has been the norm for over a decade now. Remember once installed the staggered fins are a very difficult to distinguish detail even with the wheel off . The two piece hub style is very visible with the wheel off . I would strive for a two piece rotor instead of the generic one piece on a show car and not stress over finding a staggered fin version unless you are striving for thoroughbred type restoration . Just my opinion.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline livetoride60

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Re: How to tell original disc rotors - 64 / 65
« Reply #9 on: November 26, 2014, 12:44:01 PM »
The one on the left looks very unusual to me

I got to looking at it last night and it almost looks like a repair on the bearing cap snout.  I haven't and don't want to try to remove it, but I'm wondering if the snout was machined and this collar fitted over it (or more likely an insert fitted into it) to repair a crack or something.  Both hubs have the same K/H markings and numbers, so lends creedance to a repair.
« Last Edit: November 26, 2014, 01:17:26 PM by livetoride60 »
'65 K code Fastback, 4sp, San Jose, 10/9/64
'66 C code Coupe, C4, Dearborn, 5/24/66
'67 Fairlane Convertible, 3sp, 200 I6

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: How to tell original disc rotors - 64 / 65
« Reply #10 on: November 26, 2014, 12:48:19 PM »
Not finding any threads on how to tell if you have original or replacement rotors.  I've heard something about whether the fins are staggered, but not finding any examples.

Here are mine, from an Oct 64 San Jose K code fastback.  They have K/H on the bolts, but think I remember that service replacements could still be Kelsey-Hayes.

Also, the hub where the grease cap mounts is a little different on each one.

Thanks,
Rich
If the rotors in your picture are within specs and they look like they are then you are heads and shoulders over most Mustangs who now have the one piece style rotors. Good fortune.  :)
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline 67gtasanjose

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Re: How to tell original disc rotors - 64 / 65
« Reply #11 on: November 26, 2014, 12:58:57 PM »
I have the original rotors, but without checking thickness, fairly sure at least one of them below specs. Both are likely warped some anyways from years of service.

I used to let my (ex) wife drive it as a daily driver in the early 80's and once had a pad come loose from the rivets, scored it pretty good before she could tell me about it. (as she said, "I HAD to at least drive it home!") NOT the reason she is an ex though... I turned both rotors but remembered that one was thinner than it should have been (back then) I am sure if I were to "mic" them, probably both look rather thin, just one thinner on the inside more-so.

I wouldn't mind finding one more in same condition of the fairly good one if anybody has one. None from out of the "Rust Belt" please :)

Richard
Richard Urch

1967 (11/2/66, S.J.) GTA Luxury Coupe, 289-4V w/Thermactor Emissions, C-4, Int./Ext. Decor +many options

2005 (04/05) GT Premium Convertible, Windveil Blue, Parchment Top w/Med. Parchment interior,  Roush Body Appointments

Offline livetoride60

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Re: How to tell original disc rotors - 64 / 65
« Reply #12 on: November 26, 2014, 01:10:58 PM »
If the rotors in your picture are within specs and they look like they are then you are heads and shoulders over most Mustangs who now have the one piece style rotors. Good fortune.  :)

Thanks Bob.  After reading your previous post I was comfortable working with what I have, this just confirms it.  Good to hear.  I may try to replace that one with the funky hub though.  Both rotors are still within specs...thickness anyway, 0.810 and 0.805.

Any source for extra two piece rotors?  I'm assuming from the discussion that's something I'll just have to keep an eye out for.

This car has yielded a few surprises, including original rear handling pkg shocks and G2 radiator, both date correct.  I'm thankful for lack of P.O. maintenance.  :)

'65 K code Fastback, 4sp, San Jose, 10/9/64
'66 C code Coupe, C4, Dearborn, 5/24/66
'67 Fairlane Convertible, 3sp, 200 I6

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: How to tell original disc rotors - 64 / 65
« Reply #13 on: November 26, 2014, 02:24:37 PM »
Thanks Bob.  After reading your previous post I was comfortable working with what I have, this just confirms it.  Good to hear.  I may try to replace that one with the funky hub though.  Both rotors are still within specs...thickness anyway, 0.810 and 0.805.

Any source for extra two piece rotors?  I'm assuming from the discussion that's something I'll just have to keep an eye out for.

This car has yielded a few surprises, including original rear handling pkg shocks and G2 radiator, both date correct.  I'm thankful for lack of P.O. maintenance.  :)
As I indicated the two piece are very hard to find now . ebay , swap etc. are places to look.  NOS service ones like pictured on the thread are still prevalent ebay but typically sold in pairs for 5-600.00 or more . I don't think I have ever seen a single for sale by itself. I think the one you have with the funky hub was something that was done when manufactured to make a less then spec part acceptable to be boxed for sale. I have never heard of a typical fix for one (although there may be one ) in the aftermarket. I have never researched it because it typically wouldn't be worth the trouble to fix one compared to replacing one. I would use the one you have until and if you find another better if it were me.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby