Topic: *Update*AC drier what is correct fitting, repos don't fit**Found correct one**

[1965GTFB]

**Found a correct one that will fit.  Ron from Classic Auto Air took the time to check the fitment problem with the one I got from NPD that comes from CAA.  Turns out all the ones that were made for them are wrong.  Ron was great and called me with info on one he found that will fit.  It does not have the same style bracket as an original or "concours correct" but does the most important thing, IT FITS.
It is made by Evercore (4 Seasons) part# 33274.  Got it at Auto Zone for about $30 incl the stupid high sales tax here in Cali.  It was a little short to clear the rad support opening so a little bend of the bottom tube on the condenser pretty much took care of that.

So no offense but, no need to pay $100 for a used one that will need a $100+ rebuild or $300 for a rebuilt one.  But bracket is not factory correct so the 33274 would not be what you want for a concours application**


7 years ago built the oldest son's 68 coupe.  Factory AC car, 302, san Jose built.  None of the AC driers fit to allow the 90 degree elbow to clear the radiator support.  Finally sent the original drier to CCA and had them rebuild it.  Searched every where no one had new drier with fitting in location that matched the original

Now having the same problem with the 67.  Going factory AC with all the parts, except those missing like the drier, coming off a factor AC donor.  Using new condenser and drier from CCA.

Problem is looking at the drier from the top:
- The fitting coming out of the top of the drier comes out at 3 o'clock and aims at 3 o'clock or East or Driver Side which ever of those 3 explains it best.
- This causes the fitting to be tucked too tight into the recess in the rad support and there is no way to get the 90 degree hard line elbow on.
- On the original 68 drier that CCA rebuilt the fitting came out at 6 o'clock(as far toward the front of the car as possible) and pointed to DS or East, allowing the hard 90 to clear no problem.

CCA has no answer.  All the repo driers seem to be the same 3 o'clock to DS/East position.

The attached pics show what I'm working with and also show the 68 we did(might need to zoom in on that one).  Also included pics from Tom Corcoran's 64 1/2-68 book of 3 different 289 cars all with a drier that has the fitting in the 6 o'clock position.

So what is correct 3 or 6 o'clock, especially considering that the 3 o'clock position will not fit?

[Bob Gaines]

7 years ago built the oldest son's 68 coupe.  Factory AC car, 302, san Jose built.  None of the AC driers fit to allow the 90 degree elbow to clear the radiator support.  Finally sent the original drier to CCA and had them rebuild it.  Searched every where no one had new drier with fitting in location that matched the original

Now having the same problem with the 67.  Going factory AC with all the parts, except those missing like the drier, coming off a factor AC donor.  Using new condenser and drier from CCA.

Problem is looking at the drier from the top:
- The fitting coming out of the top of the drier comes out at 3 o'clock and aims at 3 o'clock or East or Driver Side which ever of those 3 explains it best.
- This causes the fitting to be tucked too tight into the recess in the rad support and there is no way to get the 90 degree hard line elbow on.
- On the original 68 drier that CCA rebuilt the fitting came out at 6 o'clock(as far toward the front of the car as possible) and pointed to DS or East, allowing the hard 90 to clear no problem.

CCA has no answer.  All the repo driers seem to be the same 3 o'clock to DS/East position.

The attached pics show what I'm working with and also show the 68 we did(might need to zoom in on that one).  Also included pics from Tom Corcoran's 64 1/2-68 book of 3 different 289 cars all with a drier that has the fitting in the 6 o'clock position.

So what is correct 3 or 6 o'clock, especially considering that the 3 o'clock position will not fit?

67 and 68 driers are identical. Here are pictures of original assemblyline drier and connection.  You can determine how the original fitting is clocked in relation to yours from the pictures.

[Bob Gaines]

67 and 68 driers are identical. Here are pictures of original assemblyline drier and connection.  You can determine how the original fitting is clocked in relation to yours from the pictures.

Notice the strap /clamp around the entire circumference of the drier tube. That is assemblyline for 67/68 . The service replacements and repros have a short bracket spot weld to the tube. This is a extremely visible detail once you know what to look for . Also notice the series of small holes down the edge strap of the condenser .The holes are a indication of assemblyline. The service replacements and repros do not have this . this is another highly visible detail once you know what to look for . Now you do.

[Bob Gaines]

I would also mention that the drier and condenser lines coming through the radiator support were blacked out (brush?) to minimize visibility (shiny silver) as seen from the front looking at the grill. Same thing was done on oil cooler lines on 69/70 cars as well as the A/C lines. Not sure if it got done on every single example but certainly the intent was there. 

[1965GTFB]

So is there any where to find one that is built correctly?  Not even necessarily from a concours stand point but just from the stand point of even being able to attach the 90 degree elbow?

[1965GTFB]

67 and 68 driers are identical. Here are pictures of original assemblyline drier and connection.  You can determine how the original fitting is clocked in relation to yours from the pictures.

Bob, how long is the canister part of the drier in you pics?

[TLea]

So is there any where to find one that is built correctly?  Not even necessarily from a concours stand point but just from the stand point of even being able to attach the 90 degree elbow?

Only way is to have original rebuilt because of the strap details Bob mentioned. If you go with repop attach hose to drier with condenser off the car but dont tighten. Slip condenser on car with hose on and tighten. If too close to support a gentle pull will turn head away slightly

[1965GTFB]

Only way is to have original rebuilt because of the strap details Bob mentioned. If you go with repop attach hose to drier with condenser off the car but dont tighten. Slip condenser on car with hose on and tighten. If too close to support a gentle pull will turn head away slightly

There's no way.  It's way too close, I'd be concerned about bending things so much that there would be damage and a leak.  It would also still be too low for the factory cut out through the rad support.

[Bob Gaines]

Bob, how long is the canister part of the drier in you pics?

I checked the canister portion of about 1/2 dozen each of 65/66 67/68 and 69 assemblyline ones . They all seemed to vary between 9 1/2 and 9 3/4 .

[1965GTFB]

Bob,
Assuming that you have those driers in the pics would you want sell either one of them?

[TLea]

There's no way.  It's way too close, I'd be concerned about bending things so much that there would be damage and a leak.  It would also still be too low for the factory cut out through the rad support.

Thanks for your no way. There are several cars I've restored riding around with "no way" and cold AC.
If you are going to use repop parts you need to be creative (and trust people that have done it before)

[TLea]

Only other option is like you did first time. Buy used original and have it restored.

[1965GTFB]

Thanks for your no way. There are several cars I've restored riding around with "no way" and cold AC.
If you are going to use repop parts you need to be creative (and trust people that have done it before)

Did yours have the same clearance problem?  How did you make it work/fit.
I know how to adapt and fabricate, power antennas using original bezels, 3 point belts in daughter's '66 using my setup that is cleaner then the kits, 3 point belts that look like they could have been factory in the rear of son's 68 using fox body vert rear belts, the list goes on.

I just don't understand why it is so hard for a manufacturer & vendors to not make parts that fit right or at least put a BIG * that they must be modified.

I understand what you are saying about assembling off the car and pulling/bending/tweaking it to fit, but again if it leaks or breaks it would be on me.
The worst is when you talk to a vendor(Scott Drake, instrument bezel flaw) after you buy a part and after being their QC department(sending pics as requested, etc) to have the first thing they say be "Well we don't make that part".  To which I replied "You put your name on it"

Yea, you are right likely will have to buy an old original then have it rebuilt.  Lucky that the 68 we did still have the drier on it.

[1965GTFB]

Only other option is like you did first time. Buy used original and have it restored.

With help of CCA found one that fits.  Details at top of original post.