Topic: Need advice re vehicle transport and/or trailering

[hopeto]

Angela, You'll get a variety of answers, but here's my 2 cents. The straps you've shown a link to are an excellent choice (especially on the rear) as they have the "loop" built into them. The type with just a hook, and then use a separate loop, also work well and are sometimes more versatile. I prefer to "let the suspension work" while a vehicle is tied down. In other words I don't pull the car down against it's springs. I hook to the rear end itself and somewhere on the front that still allows the cars suspension to work. After you strap it down have someone push up and down on the car while you check for any possible contact with the strap. Even slight contact with movement will wear/cut a strap. At the rear you will also get varying opinions on whether to "cross" the straps or not. I have found that if you have a slick floor in the trailer then definitely cross the straps. If not (my trailers have a non-skid floor coating) then I prefer to pull straight back. If crossed and one strap fails then the other one will tend to pull it in that direction. I personally pull/tie down straight both front and back. Wheel nets work great if the trailer is set up for them. I'm just not a big fan due to the limited flexibility of properly tying down a variety of different length cars. Tie it down and above all check your load at every stop! You might also check out these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cmb-29-0012

[Bob Gaines]

Angela, You'll get a variety of answers, but here's my 2 cents. The straps you've shown a link to are an excellent choice (especially on the rear) as they have the "loop" built into them. The type with just a hook, and then use a separate loop, also work well and are sometimes more versatile. I prefer to "let the suspension work" while a vehicle is tied down. In other words I don't pull the car down against it's springs. I hook to the rear end itself and somewhere on the front that still allows the cars suspension to work. After you strap it down have someone push up and down on the car while you check for any possible contact with the strap. Even slight contact with movement will wear/cut a strap. At the rear you will also get varying opinions on whether to "cross" the straps or not. I have found that if you have a slick floor in the trailer then definitely cross the straps. If not (my trailers have a non-skid floor coating) then I prefer to pull straight back. If crossed and one strap fails then the other one will tend to pull it in that direction. I personally pull/tie down straight both front and back. Wheel nets work great if the trailer is set up for them. I'm just not a big fan due to the limited flexibility of properly tying down a variety of different length cars. Tie it down and above all check your load at every stop! You might also check out these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cmb-29-0012

+1 and to add I have tied down both ways but have noticed the if tied down compressing the springs you never can eliminate the up and down movement completely resulting in the straps working themselves loose and even more quickly on rough roads. I check at every stop but find tying down by way of frame rail "j"  hooks in front and factory tiedown bracket in rear they work loose to the point of a couple to several clicks on the ratchet strap when I check every single time at the next stop. That is just me and the reason why I choose to do it the axle tube way.

[ppc66]

FWIW - I've trailered my fair share of things with suspensions.  The best way is to keep the tires planted in one spot.  I've been behind trailers where they were fastened at points other than the axles its unnerving how much they can slide.  I suspect this is why they've developed rear shock plates and lower a-arm brackets with convienent strap accomodations. Of course they're not concours.
Funny story / cautionary tale...- I had delivered my 200cid engine to my father for rebuilding (in the back of my subaru outback). When the engine was done he sent a buddy with a car carrier to get my car (the driver was going to a big car auction here in VA).  Learned alot the day the 40' car carrier showed up on my street!  I learned just how heavy a mustang without an engine is. I learned that car carrier ramps are steep. I also learned that a 40' car carrier does not have some magical winch to drag a car up on it. And that drivers don't carry come-a-longs and really don't want to help push.
I ended up using 2 neighbors, a chainfall, and some heavy straps.  We got the car all the way up to the back of the cab. When  the car arrived to my father in CT it looked like it had been through a poop storm after it's 600 mile journey from VA to CT... yes... it would have been easier for me to go get the engine. My mom & dad had fun driving the car back to me in VA when it was reassembled though.

-Perry

[priceless]

Hmmm,,,,If this Mustang is your prized posession and on top of that a 390 BB and you've been working on it for over a decade, what does it matter what it's going cost to have it hauled by a well known transport company? I know your distance is approximately 1100 miles. THAT'S a long way.  Skyway65 said that Reliable is EXCELLENT, and drivers that "get it" when it comes to classic and vintage cars. I'd say that these professional know how to "start-up" any classic muscle car with a little instruction from the owner. And on top of all this, I'd say MOST, if not all, well known haulers have excellent insurance.

So you ask yourself, do I want to take the risk of pulling my "prized possession" 1100 miles, with a vehicle I've never drove before and towing a trailer I've never towed before and risk something happening and just HOPE your insurance covers any/all the damages?

To me, it's a no-brainer". I would spend extra and let the Professional do the hauling of my "prized possession", JMO.  

[Angela]

Thanks to all three people who responded (above) concerning tie-down straps. I have a couple follow-up questions:

(1) What's the difference between the MAC (brand) and SUMMIT strap kits (see links above)? Is the difference merely the brand and hence price?

(2) Where are you guys connecting the straps up front? A picture would be worth a 1000 words. :-)

[Angela]

Hmmm,,,,If this Mustang is your prized posession and on top of that a 390 BB and you've been working on it for over a decade, what does it matter what it's going cost to have it hauled by a well known transport company? I know your distance is approximately 1100 miles. THAT'S a long way.  Skyway65 said that Reliable is EXCELLENT, and drivers that "get it" when it comes to classic and vintage cars. I'd say that these professional know how to "start-up" any classic muscle car with a little instruction from the owner. And on top of all this, I'd say MOST, if not all, well known haulers have excellent insurance.

So you ask yourself, do I want to take the risk of pulling my "prized possession" 1100 miles, with a vehicle I've never drove before and towing a trailer I've never towed before and risk something happening and just HOPE your insurance covers any/all the damages?

To me, it's a no-brainer". I would spend extra and let the Professional do the hauling of my "prized possession", JMO.

Thanks "priceless".... good input. It's precisely that since the vehicle is so important to me, I don't like the idea of tossing the keys to some transport co that I don't know and letting them load/unload and haul it who knows where/how.... Ugh, I cannot stomach that. Just my $0.02.

[Smokey 15]

 /\/\/\ That's why you hire a professional that has good references. As I stated, my cousin who did his had special training and a structured way of doing things.

[hopeto]

Where are you guys connecting the straps up front? A picture would be worth a 1000 words.

If I had one loaded now I shoot some pictures. Sorry. Everything is unloaded and garaged for the winter.
If it is a car with a good front sway bar solidly mounted I will attach my front straps around the bar close to the horseshoe frame mounts. That is assuming your front tie downs are far enough forward where you are pulling forward on the car and not much downward. A lot of folks will loop around the lower control arm. I'm not a fan of that method as a lot of lower arms are rough enough to cut straps with movement. A lot depends on the front valance or front spoiler interference.
Attaching at the "round" of the rear axle and the "round" of the front sway bar make it much less likely cut your straps. I actually make sleeves out of bath towel thickness material to go around my axle straps where the webbing of the tie down doesn't make contact with the vehicle. Acts a cushion where it's more difficult to damage my straps. If I see any wear on the towel sleeve then I replace it before anything can damage/cut my straps. A piece of towel is much cheaper that a new set of tie down straps.

[Smokey 15]

 I picked up a set of axle straps that were 'wrapped'.

[Bob Gaines]

I picked up a set of axle straps that were 'wrapped'.

I got my wrapped ones from Mac.

[sportyworty]

I have moved a few cars long distance inside the box of moving trucks. This allows for a 1 way rental and the box height is compatible with a low bed for loading and unloading. I loop the straps under 2x4's and screw them to the floor. This one was transporting a 68.5 project from Florida back to California. The contents never shifted one bit and never even had to tighten the straps. It is simple with a running car on all 4's. Cordless drill some good wood screws and a couple of 2x4's with your set of straps. Upon arrival call a low bed, remove the evidence, sweep it out and return to the rental counter

[priceless]

Yea, but you're hauling a Mustang minus the complete drivetrain. Looks like no interior either. You've just subtracted probably 1/2 the total weight of the car!!

I don't think I'd want to haul a 3400# Mustang, strapped to 4x4's and the boards screwed to the floor. Remember, she has a complete Mustang WITH a BB 390.  One hard hit on the brakes and......You guess what happens!!!

I wouldn't do it, JMO.

[67gtasanjose]

Yea, but you're hauling a Mustang minus the complete drivetrain. Looks like no interior either. You've just subtracted probably 1/2 the total weight of the car!!

I don't think I'd want to haul a 3400# Mustang, strapped to 4x4's and the boards screwed to the floor. Remember, she has a complete Mustang WITH a BB 390.  One hard hit on the brakes and......You guess what happens!!!

I wouldn't do it, JMO.

I wouldn't do it either! Across town to the body shop for paint, stripped down like that...maybe but again, loading and unloading that thing is a real Bother! My parents once had a '89 Crown Victory puke-out in Georgia while pulling a light trailer from Florida to Ohio, rented a U-Haul and put the Vickey inside and pulled the trailer back behind...worked out very nicely...But it wasn't a  pride & joy ++++$45K Mustang either!

No!, absolutely NO!!!!!!

[sportyworty]

The entire car contents was in the box. The 428 CJ engine is clearly visible in the pic. In fact it weighed more because the dolly was very heavy
You are entitled to your opinion. The difference is you are speculating an outcome and I have actually done it..several times. Correct wood screws (many of them) are holding the boards in place. Have you ever actually inspected the commercial grade wood floor in a professionally build moving truck? These things ride rough bumpity bump and upon checking the straps every time I got gas was amazed nothing had moved and never even had to click the ratchets one single time. Of course I would do it again having proven success in doing so in the past. I also have my own trailer but for a long haul for a car in parts this penciled out. Have likely more tow miles than most on these forums so not just floating facts here and was just trying to help. This was a very rare, valuable freshly painted car as well

[priceless]

The entire car contents was in the box.......

Yes, but the ENTIRE contents of the complete car wasn't on the rolling 4 tires, the weight was spaced throughout the whole van. One severe stab on the brakes and that 3400# probably would triple with the G forces !!!

LOL, Yea, you're exactly right, we're all entitled to our opinions.