Topic: '69 painting questions (Oct 68 Dearborn)

[J_Speegle]

I'd like to get some feedback to see if this slop color looks about right, or whether it needs some adjustment --

A couple of observations

1-  Floor plan plugs would not have been in place (nor their sealant) when the car was being painted. so that should be bare galvanized with a black sealant around them. Same goes for the mounting screws

2- The sealant we see in the picture at the rocker to floor seam as well as the inner seat belt anchors would not have been applied before the batch color


Keep up the good work

[cobrajetchris]

Looks good to me as it looks toned downed and not full gloss. As far as the shade I am sure it varied quite a bit since it was coverage they were after. There was no paint code for this so if it looks close to what you had I think you are good to go. It looks very close to mine if you didn't have any examples on your car.

[J_Speegle]

Looks good to me as it looks toned downed and not full gloss. .........

The dusting of exterior color and pinch weld black out will also reduce the gloss of the base batch color/paint to the eye once the car is completed

[emptys]

More progress, but i've got more questions:

I'm thinking for an early car, the cowl area just left body color, correct?

But i'm not sure about the area wheel well area, here is been pained black, but i'm thinking that's not quite right.

Anything else i've missed?

[J_Speegle]

I'm thinking for an early car, the cowl area just left body color, correct?

Given the assembly plant and the date - Correct

But i'm not sure about the area wheel well area, here is been pained black, but i'm thinking that's not quite right.

Your right again. Not even close for that plant and time period.

This might help. If it doesn't explain everything well enough for you to paint the area please ask for more.

Anything else i've missed?

Just checking - you didn't paint the bottom of the frame rails, strut rod brackets, bottom of sway bar mounts ......?

Your getting there

[emptys]

Given the assembly plant and the date - Correct

Your right again. Not even close for that plant and time period.

This might help. If it doesn't explain everything well enough for you to paint the area please ask for more.

Hrm,  did you intend to leave a link to some other post?  maybe even this one:
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=9704.msg57242#msg57242
(its the one i've been reading and re-reading)

Just checking - you didn't paint the bottom of the frame rails, strut rod brackets, bottom of sway bar mounts ......?

I'll get a shot of how that area look:  front area under the engine natural with some slop overspray... but posting an image will help me understand what i've missed.

[J_Speegle]

Hrm,  did you intend to leave a link to some other post?  maybe even this one:
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=9704.msg57242#msg57242
(its the one i've been reading and re-reading)

That thread is for the 70 - not one I would have recommended.

Sorry forgot to put a link or two

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=2190.msg11344#msg11344


http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=4348.msg24136#msg24136


And for some additional reading

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=7738.msg44251#msg44251

I'll get a shot of how that area look:  front area under the engine natural with some slop overspray... but posting an image will help me understand what i've missed.

Sounds like a plan.   Might need to touch up things there also

[emptys]

Here's a few shots from underneath,

The color here seems to be stronger than its actually painted around near the front rails,  its a light blue-slop color, i'm not sure exactly why its showing up as strong.  its misted over a natural color

 

[J_Speegle]

Here's a few shots from underneath,

The color here seems to be stronger than its actually painted around near the front rails,  its a light blue-slop color, i'm not sure exactly why its showing up as strong.  its misted over a natural color

Is this the same color you used under the car from firewall rearward?

Is that light gray in the shock tower area?

Since you don't have documentation of how your car came not sure if I would have chosen the batch over the red oxide (more common)

Looks like your going to need to reapply the frame color back in the wheel well, then feather the body color and black back over the areas as shown in the attached threads.

[emptys]

Is this the same color you used under the car from firewall rearward?

Is that light gray in the shock tower area?

Since you don't have documentation of how your car came not sure if I would have chosen the batch over the red oxide (more common)

Looks like your going to need to reapply the frame color back in the wheel well, then feather the body color and black back over the areas as shown in the attached threads.

I'll get a better shot of the shock tower area.

As for the red-oxide,  we used CobraJetChris's picture as a guideline since that was painted one day earlier (10/10) at the factory.

As for the wheel well -- thanks!  That's the question is was going to ask to make sure i was reading the other thread correctly.

[J_Speegle]

I'll get a better shot of the shock tower area.

As for the red-oxide,  we used CobraJetChris's picture as a guideline since that was painted one day earlier (10/10) at the factory.

Make sure you save and print those (taking them with you) if you choose to show the car one day. There will likely be questions so address it with the judging team BEFORE they get started.

[emptys]

Make sure you save and print those (taking them with you) if you choose to show the car one day. There will likely be questions so address it with the judging team BEFORE they get started.

Good point.

Since more work needs to be invested for the front wheel wells,  its worthwhile to consider red-oxide in the shock tower area.   From your POV,  if dearborm didn't do red-oxide under the car in this timeframe, would they have done red-oxide in the shock tower area?

While searching for other issues, i noticed:  http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=9295.msg54639#msg54639,
that's a convertible, tho.  would the wheel well be treated differently in that situation?

[emptys]

Here's some pictures of the current underbody, with overspray from body color,

As typical (for a newbie), there's more questions:

• Is the amount of overspray here too much, or typical?
• Would it have covered the seam sealer on the inside of the pinch weld?  that would end up being covered by black out in any case, correct?
• did i miss the timing on sound deadener on the pans?  Should that be under body color?  Sound deadener is always applied (for all restoration/judging classes, or no?)
• What about the transmission tunnel?  is that supposed to be natural, or slop?

[J_Speegle]

Is the amount of overspray here too much, or typical?

It appears IMHO that you've done a pretty nice job with the amount of coverage. This is normally a challenge for painters today with the sort of guns available = HPLV don't produce the same amount of overspray as the older ones did.  It appears that you likely used multiple passes and direct application which reduced some of the shadowing we would see on originals in some areas but it looks fine. It does look like your method of application didn't allow a shadow along the rocker panel to floor to develop as it would had it been sprayed on the rocker from a outside angle. This may cause an issue now as you apply the pinch weld black out.

Since I can't make out the detail in the picture did you apply enough sound deadener to the rear wheel well and allow it to "splash" overspray onto the frame and floor directly behind it. All too often owners/builders get too neat and mask the wheel well at the edge producing the look as if the sound deadener magically and suddenly ends at that edge. Not close to the original look at all - and results in point loss at shows

Would it have covered the seam sealer on the inside of the pinch weld?  that would end up being covered by black out in any case, correct?

Floor to rocker sealer appears to be applied after all the painting so would not expect to see any exterior color or pinch weld black out

did i miss the timing on sound deadener on the pans?  Should that be under body color?  Sound deadener is always applied (for all restoration/judging classes, or no?)

Wasn't your car a GT?    On Grande's, Mach I's and for some reason Boss 302's  received the additional sound deadener on the floor s after the car was partially together - much late so you should be good

What about the transmission tunnel?  is that supposed to be natural, or slop?

Trans mission tunnel, part of the floor was painted like the rest of the floor - no special attention or detail there that I've ever seen. At times, it appears, if the firewall to floor junction in that area was a poor match (read gap) a worker would slap on some ugly sealant there.

[emptys]

... rear wheel well, side shots...

the white color really covers ... its hard to make out the deadener underneath,  i've also got a closer shot to get a better idea of the texture --