Topic: '69 painting questions (Oct 68 Dearborn)

[emptys]

Wasn't your car a GT?    On Grande's, Mach I's and for some reason Boss 302's  received the additional sound deadener on the floor s after the car was partially together - much late so you should be good

Yes, that's right, a GT ...  ah, i'd not given that too much enough thought.  Thanks...

[J_Speegle]

Its all about the details - All of them

[emptys]

Updated front wheel well....

[J_Speegle]

Looks like you've been busy

That IMHO looks like it would be in the range/neighborhood of what would have been done typically that plant and time period


Since they would have applied the black last (from engine compartment) you would not have a straight line and some light overspray at the back end of the wheel well. But more of that area will be covered by fender and cowl top panel and later sound deadener

[emptys]

Thanks Jeff,

there's still lots more to do.  we have a preliminary pinch-weld blackout one, i'll see if i can post that up for comment too,

but we still have some questions...

Where does the engine-bay black end on the side shirts near the cowl near the top of the fenders.  Does the metal region which extends out from the cowl to the left and right uppers get engine black, or stay body color?


The batch/slop color for other dearborn parts (from the FAQ http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=4.0): hood latch, license plate bracket, battery tray, etc) which i've seen don't seem to follow the same color group as the blue/green batch color.   Should these have the strong blue/green color, or are they more grey?   From the shot's i've seen, they don't seem to be as obviously batch color.   Are people toning these down to make them less obvious to keep your eye from noticing?

[J_Speegle]

Where does the engine-bay black end on the side shirts near the cowl near the top of the fenders.  Does the metal region which extends out from the cowl to the left and right uppers get engine black, or stay body color?

The top of the cowl (before the cowl panel is attached) would still be left body color - at the sides the black stops before it reaches the cowl - normally

Some shots that will surely provide a better idea than my words could

On this one the arrow shows the original black/engine compartment paint edge. Ignore the other black - someone with a rattle can   int he past

The batch/slop color for other dearborn parts (from the FAQ http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=4.0): hood latch, license plate bracket, battery tray, etc) which i've seen don't seem to follow the same color group as the blue/green batch color.   Should these have the strong blue/green color, or are they more grey? 

IMHO I would describe them as a stronger gray (medium to almost black- very dark). In my experience it looks like allot less influence from the added blues, greens added. Likely a smaller percentage of added other colors (since that plant didn't have the same access to left over exterior paint colors as the car assembly line did. Likely a larger percentage of grays and blacks than the floor batch containers.

[emptys]

Thanks Jeff -- got it, so the reason the batch color was different was because these parts were getting painted in a different factory.   It was still a batch color, but not 'boty-batch'.

That brings me to the inner fender shock tower cover -- from some of the images i see posted here, its a bit tough to tell how that got painted -- was it 'body-batch' or 'grey-batch'?

[J_Speegle]

Thanks Jeff -- got it, so the reason the batch color was different was because these parts were getting painted in a different factory. 

That would be a correct statement IMHO

It was still a batch color, but not 'body-batch'.

Yes there are differences as you have discovered - maybe two different terms should be developed

That brings me to the inner fender shock tower cover -- from some of the images i see posted here, its a bit tough to tell how that got painted -- was it 'body-batch' or 'grey-batch'?

Like all of the smaller individually painted parts - more of the grey base. Also most of these parts are heavily painted to the point where you can make out drips. This may because they were dipped in the batch paint or just so much paint that they produced drips often. In either case we don't have to know how they did it just how it ended up looking

[emptys]

I was speaking with cobrajetchris, and he mentioned that the underside of his fenders were red oxide before he started into restoration.   I'd not thought much about the other less visible parts of the car,  and i'm wondering what's right for:

• Underside of the fender
• Underside of the front and rear valence
• Fender side of the headlight buckets[\li]
  

Any other backsides which i may have missed?

[J_Speegle]

Underside of the fender
Underside of the front and rear valence
Fender side of the headlight buckets


Any other backsides which i may have missed?

Originally some of those parts would have been red oxide front and black (other than the head light buckets) The amount of overspray from painting the exterior and mating surfaces would have differed in amount based on the painter. Have examples where the back sides are as nice (fenders) as the out side or just enough to account and reflect what was being painted on the exterior - more around the wheel well and the bottom of the fender directly above the wheel well, back at the door opening, on the front bottom inner surface from painting the face and lower section where the front valance would be attached

As far as rear valance normally not allot of overspray normally since it was difficult for the paint to get there (normally more at the wings) since it was attached at the top to the body when the car was being painted. But after light gray primer surfacer coat

To add to the list you would have the

- cowl cover
- lower panel for the grill opening (you can often make out the paint shadow from the two sections that sort of hang down at the front edge.

Other "back side" would be the quarter extensions but like the rear valance they were sort of on the body come exterior paint application - just spaced out a 1/4" or so

[emptys]

Thanks Jeff,

The grey oxide on the rear valence seems a bit odd,  did that part come from a different line or supplier who always did those in grey?

Also, i have two original front valences, one in white and one in red.   The white one came from
a car which had an accident on the drivers side.   There's a square red oxide area, under what
appears to be a paper tag, but that's the only visible red oxide on the back of the valence.  It also
has a ford part number stamped on it, which leads me to believe this part was replace and
repainted after the accident.

The 2nd one i have is all red -- no red oxide is visible.   Maybe this was repainted, and the
painter painted the back of the valence along with the front?

Is it unusual for no red oxide to be visible on the back side of the front valence?

[J_Speegle]

The grey oxide on the rear valence seems a bit odd,  did that part come from a different line or supplier who always did those in grey?

Never heard or seen an original body panel that was originally painted grey from any stamping plant. Would expect that this was a result of preparation (primmer) applied by a body shop. Very typically

Is it unusual for no red oxide to be visible on the back side of the front valence?

For a final look, after the car was originally painted it is not unusual IMHO to have the back of the front valance (69-70)  with no visible primer. The panel has a greater ability to get overspray and direct spray from painting edges with the pain guns they were originally using at the time due to the design. The greatest area where the paint may be chalky or thin can be behind the flange of the panel would be behind where they attach to the fenders due to the sharp bend there.

Of course the exterior color can also effect how visible (due to contrast) the back side exterior color overspray/application was