Topic: 390 4 speed throw out bearing woes

[67foxgt390]

    Hi I am having a problem with throw out bearings. I recently had a new clutch installed last summer after having a lot of rattling noises from my throw out bearing, all done professionally. After a long brutal winter and driving the car car the rattling bearing noise is back with a vengeance. My transmission guy said it is from leaving the car sit and not driving it and the grease runs out of it causing the noise. I need to put another one in i guess. How do I stop this from happening again? Winter is coming and I don't feel like going through this again. This car will soon be for sale and I dont want this hassle when dealing with a potential buyer. Thank in advance for your help. The people here are the best!!!!    Thank You Chuck

[J_Speegle]

What brand have you been using?

Never had this happen but just a few thoughts.

If the grease is "running out" where is it going and do you see it? Hate to think that there is grease flying around the inside of the bell housing - sure you will find out on disassembly

They make a throwout bearing for some applications with a grease fitting on it though I don't know how you would ever reach it once installed.

Have used McLeod bearing in the past and never had this issue.

Good luck with this challenge

[Brian Conway]

     Just a thought;  that bearing usually squeals not rattles when it is failing.  What may rattle is a lose spring in the pressure plate.  Brian

[67foxgt390]

  I have a update so it seems. The noise seems to be in the linkage and goes away when the clutch pedal is depressed about a quarter of an inch. I think I am missing a spring in the linkage. Is there supposed to  be a spring between the clutch fork and the equalizer bar? there are holes like the would be and there is no spring there now. Also can move the clutch fork up and down about an quarter of an inch. Am I on the right track?

[67gtasanjose]

  I have a update so it seems. The noise seems to be in the linkage and goes away when the clutch pedal is depressed about a quarter of an inch. I think I am missing a spring in the linkage. Is there supposed to  be a spring between the clutch fork and the equalizer bar? there are holes like the would be and there is no spring there now. Also can move the clutch fork up and down about an quarter of an inch. Am I on the right track?

Yes, take a look at pg 165 NPD 2014 catalog, part number7523-5A

There is also supposed to be a wire retainer holding the clutch fork against the pivot/fulcrum. These bad boys can be tough to connect or keep connected if rattling the trans around during the installation (hence the design change in 68-up)

Look up the page from the spring at part number 7522-1A, this should be the style pivot for the fork. Make sure the rivets holding it into the bellhousing haven't loosened in the bellhousing too. I see what looks correct for the spring clip offered at NPD on the next page but it doesn't show it as fitting a 390.(I always thought them all the same)  The later, 68-up design is showed on the previous page as part number 7B516-1A, but that is incorrect for early 68 and down design.

Hope this helps some

Richard

[67foxgt390]

  Thank You every one!!!!! I found the clutch anti rattle spring in two pieces while the other spring seems to be long gone. Off to CJ Pony Parts for springs! Thanks Chuck

[67foxgt390]

does any one have a picture of where this wire retainer is installed and how to put it in? I found half of that retainer hanging out of he release fork boot. There is no pics in my shop manual. Thanks Chuck

[67gtasanjose]

Hopefully somebody who has found an "easy" way can chime in here. I haven't done this for so long now but I recall it isn't extremely easy and all but impossible with engine, bellhousing and trans already assembled. (yet probably not impossible, I just don't recall doing it post assembly)

I have always tried to get this part pre-assembled before slipping the transmission into the bellhousing (on a trans install) or before aligning the engine to the bellhousing (on engine install)

Seeing what it hooks over should help a lot. Find a picture of the pivot (fulcrum) and look at the hook protruding out.

That is what holds it in there. The wire slips in through both holes in the fork before attempting to snap it over the hook on the fulcrum. The biggest trouble with doing this is, it is on the blind side of everything. It will most likely be rather frustrating, but knowing how it goes in there makes it possible.

Let us know if you find a "trick" or trick tool. Having an open bottom bellhousing will surely be your friend here on this job, you should try doing it on a small block if you want to have fun!

Richard

[67foxgt390]

  Thanks found where it goes, looks like a bear to put in especially with the big block! Looks like I will call my buddy with a trans shop.                  Thanks Chuck

[67gtasanjose]

    Hi I am having a problem with throw out bearings. I recently had a new clutch installed last summer after having a lot of rattling noises from my throw out bearing, all done professionally. After a long brutal winter and driving the car car the rattling bearing noise is back with a vengeance. My transmission guy said it is from leaving the car sit and not driving it and the grease runs out of it causing the noise. I need to put another one in i guess. How do I stop this from happening again? Winter is coming and I don't feel like going through this again. This car will soon be for sale and I dont want this hassle when dealing with a potential buyer. Thank in advance for your help. The people here are the best!!!!    Thank You Chuck

As a professional mechanic, Your first comment speaks volumes to me. There couldn't EVER have been any truth to this suggestion that "the grease runs out"

... I found the clutch anti rattle spring in two pieces while the other spring seems to be long gone.

Maybe he didn't know how to do it, I cannot say...but finding the fulcrum spring in two pieces suggests to me that either it was damaged already, usually from handling (not understanding how to disengage it) or it was not connected correctly.

It would be an awful situation if your Transmission Guy did whatever he did, or didn't do again the same way. I know I had a very difficult time figuring these turkeys out the first few I worked on many years ago and since they are today a very uncommon animal, this tells me (without knowing this transmission guy) that he made some of the same mistakes I did before I figured them out.

Just like you learned here how it is supposed to go, this guy needs to learn also or you are likely to get the same results. If he hadn't used the line "the grease is coming out" I would probably have trusted this guy...but that never sounded right and I have been doing these cars for 40 years now. I just think he didn't snap in the spring clip and the other spring on the adjuster got lost somewhere. Either way, a "Transmission Guy" should have known better IMHO (OK, not so humble, but replace the "H" for "HONEST")

In any event, if you use the same guy again or not, once these fulcrum springs are installed correctly, the installer will know they are correct. The fork should ride firmly against the fulcrum/ The wire spring will hold it snuggly in place when it is correct.

Richard

[67gtasanjose]

A recent facebook inquiry brought this thread back into the spotlight.
Here is a picture of how it goes through to the 67 model year. (68-up is different)

[Bob Gaines]

A recent facebook inquiry brought this thread back into the spotlight.
Here is a picture of how it goes through to the 67 model year. (68-up is different)

I believe it was approximately Jan-Feb 1968 when the spring clip changed to the opening for the tongue style clip on the FE.