Topic: Recoring an OEM Radiator

[DM_1964]

Just curious to know the cost of getting an OEM radiator recored in the US, I've had a couple of quotes here down under and they bring a tear to the eye...

[Bob Gaines]

Just curious to know the cost of getting an OEM radiator recored in the US, I've had a couple of quotes here down under and they bring a tear to the eye...

400-500 US is somewhat typical. The problem is that the cores that you can get now are different in appearance compared to the cores back in the day, the newer cores are more efficient is why they evolved however that can be bad news for a restorer try to recreate the assemblyline look.

[DM_1964]

Thanks Bob, that's exactly around the pricing I've been quoted.
Not sure what the Aussie rules would be around the newer core but I'd assume as long as it resembles the original and retaining everything bar the core should do fine.

[petersixtfive]

Dom
Have you found anyone that does a 2 row core near you
Also keep in mind the tube spacing centre to centre and also fins per inch

3 row recore/conversion using your original top and bottom tanks in Melbourne is about $A380

Peter

[DM_1964]

Have you found anyone that does a 2 row core near you
Also keep in mind the tube spacing centre to centre and also fins per inch

3 row recore/conversion using your original top and bottom tanks in Melbourne is about $A380

Hi Pete,
Yeah my quotes have been for both:
2 Row  Aprox. $A510
3 Row  Aprox   $A587
The cores I'm told are Aussie made as I asked if swapping the core with a repro unit would do, that's when I was told to use locally made, there's little difference in the cost so it wouldn't be worth sacraficing a repro for the sake of it...
$380 is a good deal!

[Mike_B_SVT]

I recored a 24" radiator earlier this year and it was $487.  That got me a 3 row core, but it has a higher fin count and more tubes per row ~ so it is noticeably different from the original.
I've seen other folks with a recored 24" that had a core that at least appeared more correct, and I kick myself a bit for not hammering the radiator shop about getting me a "better" / more correct appearing core.

*SIGH* another lesson learned the expensive way :-/

Here are my comparison pics, before and after recore:

[Bob Gaines]

I recored a 24" radiator earlier this year and it was $487.  That got me a 3 row core, but it has a higher fin count and more tubes per row ~ so it is noticeably different from the original.
I've seen other folks with a recored 24" that had a core that at least appeared more correct, and I kick myself a bit for not hammering the radiator shop about getting me a "better" / more correct appearing core.

*SIGH* another lesson learned the expensive way :-/

Here are my comparison pics, before and after recore:

Thanks for the comparison picture . I needed one for my files.

[Mike_B_SVT]

Thanks for the comparison picture . I needed one for my files.

No problem!  I have my own growing collection of reference pics as well :-)

I have more pics of the original and recore with measurements, but the one I posted is a decent summary of the difference for my recore.
If you would like a copy of my other pics just PM me your email and I'll zip them and send them your way.

[Brian Conway]

I 'll add this picture of my re-core experience for my 69 428 manual trans. car.  The back board has the OE rod and fin counts as well as the newer counts.  Looks like the San Diego price was about the same as Mikes.  Brian

[J_Speegle]

Thanks Brian for the picture and visual aid

[TLea]

I addition to fins per inch the core spacing is a factor. The 24" radiators arent as bad as the 20's that have the built in header well. If you find a core mfg that will work with you they can actually seam the new core into the old header well

[67gtasanjose]

Recoring Radiators is really a lost art. I used to do it in the Palm Springs (Coachella) Ca. area in the early 80's. Once the aluminum radiators took off and the aftermarket supliers increased, slowly but surely the shops all quit recoring and went to replacing. It is really a great deal of work and you require correct size core materials. Heater cores were cut from a hunk of core materials then soldered in to the old tanks. Buying a radiator with the header already on it was by far the cost effective way in the day, though that was limited availability. Now some 30 plus years later in a dying market we want them to "look original"? Yeah, I would want big bucks for that request too!

Richard

[TLea]

Now some 30 plus years later in a dying market we want them to "look original"? Yeah, I would want big bucks for that request too!

Like I said previously you just need to find someone that will work with you. There is still one core mfg that makes the cores with correct spacing and fin count. They also can graft the header wells. The prices are the same as any other core with an upcharge for the well graft. For the radiator shop it doesnt cost them any less or more. If someone charges "big bucks" move along. My guy charges me $475 for a 24" re core using correct core and he loves seeing me come through the door. He's done about 12 of them for me plus a couple of the grafted well 20" ones

[Texas Swede]

My radiator guy sends the original bucket, after removing the bad core,
off to a core manufacturer here in the Dallas area and they put a new
core to the old bucket. The reason is, as Bob said, the reproductions don't
even look close to the originals and are getting very difficult to find.
Did this for a friend and the radiator guy charged $514 for removing the
bad core and getting the new core soldered to the old bucket. Added to this will be
the removal and installation of bottom tank as well as the top cover and the side brackets.
This was for an original two row 65 Shelby radiator.
Texas Swede

[Mike_B_SVT]

There is still one core mfg that makes the cores with correct spacing and fin count. They also can graft the header wells. The prices are the same as any other core with an upcharge for the well graft.

Tim, would you be able to share the name of the manufacturer and maybe a part number of some sort, so that when we go into the radiator shop we can point them in the right direction?