Topic: 1968 Black interior paint code, Assembly quality question...

[70cj428]

Got a few questions here, about my 68 S code GT Fastback, ( 7/18/68 built Metuchen car) I'st one should be easy...

1) I just got the body shell back from the media blasters, and he inadvertently blasted the metal dash panel, so I need the paint code ( or any suggestions on paint/flattener mix) I usually use PPG products but can cross another companys code. The car has a 6AA interior (Black Décor Bucket seats), also, do you guys use a primer under the black paint on the dash and in the engine compartment ?

2) This car is a 60K mile car that was parked in 1973 after an accident, and has every indication of being an original, unmolested car (except for the accident damage to the left front) . I documented all the sealer/sound deadener locations, but this car appears to have been built on a Friday afternoon, as their appears to be way more sealer than normal in a lot of places, and it's really sloppily applied. There's a blob that looks like someone threw a golf ball size ball of sealer at the firewall just above the center of the trans tunnel, and 3/4 of the cowl drains were covered with sealer. There are other signs of shoddy assembly work, like a giant splash of contact cement in front of the gas tank in the trunk. The dolly bolts were tightened up on the left side of the car so tight that the holes in the trunk and on  the drivers side floor look countersunk 1/2", and there are numerous small areas left unwelded. 
My question, would most of you guys replicate the shoddy sealer and glue application, or would you tidy things up a bit. Also, should I fix the dolly bolt hole in the trunk where it's visible so it matches the other side, or leave it alone ?

3) The drivers side front apron was replaced after another accident early in the cars life, and the repairman cut the VIN from the original apron, and screwed it to the new apron with 2 sheet metal screws. The second accident crunched the new apron, which I replaced with an NOS part, along with an NOS rad support. (The original VIN stamping is till present on the passenger side apron). I was going to Tig weld the original VIN into the new apron, but I'm not sure if this is an accepted practice for a concours restoration. Any thoughts ??

Thank's in advance, John

[ruppstang]

Hi John
The original Charcoal black Metallic paint code is 9354LH. I use a black primer and NPD's rattle can and I have been happy with the results.

If you are building a Concours car I would leave the defects because it is important that that Concours cars truly represent what was rolling off the assembly line for the good and the bad. If something threatened the safety of the car that I would fix. Many of the cars shown today are over restored and that is why it is so special to see a unrestored car shown even though it is not perfect.

At least here in Nebraska it is acceptable to weld in the VIN in to the replacement part. I would document the damage in case it was ever questioned. I am not sure what the laws in your state may be. You may want to call the DMV there.
Marty
 

[CharlesTurner]

I typically use PPG concept for interior paint and flatten it to egg-shell with one choice matting agent.

Yes, definitely should apply a primer to bare metal, a light coat of DPLF black would be perfect, followed by topcoat within 48 hours for chemical bond.

[Bob Gaines]

Got a few questions here, about my 68 S code GT Fastback, ( 7/18/68 built Metuchen car) I'st one should be easy...

1) I just got the body shell back from the media blasters, and he inadvertently blasted the metal dash panel, so I need the paint code ( or any suggestions on paint/flattener mix) I usually use PPG products but can cross another companys code. The car has a 6AA interior (Black Décor Bucket seats), also, do you guys use a primer under the black paint on the dash and in the engine compartment ?

2) This car is a 60K mile car that was parked in 1973 after an accident, and has every indication of being an original, unmolested car (except for the accident damage to the left front) . I documented all the sealer/sound deadener locations, but this car appears to have been built on a Friday afternoon, as their appears to be way more sealer than normal in a lot of places, and it's really sloppily applied. There's a blob that looks like someone threw a golf ball size ball of sealer at the firewall just above the center of the trans tunnel, and 3/4 of the cowl drains were covered with sealer. There are other signs of shoddy assembly work, like a giant splash of contact cement in front of the gas tank in the trunk. The dolly bolts were tightened up on the left side of the car so tight that the holes in the trunk and on  the drivers side floor look countersunk 1/2", and there are numerous small areas left unwelded. 
My question, would most of you guys replicate the shoddy sealer and glue application, or would you tidy things up a bit. Also, should I fix the dolly bolt hole in the trunk where it's visible so it matches the other side, or leave it alone ?

3) The drivers side front apron was replaced after another accident early in the cars life, and the repairman cut the VIN from the original apron, and screwed it to the new apron with 2 sheet metal screws. The second accident crunched the new apron, which I replaced with an NOS part, along with an NOS rad support. (The original VIN stamping is till present on the passenger side apron). I was going to Tig weld the original VIN into the new apron, but I'm not sure if this is an accepted practice for a concours restoration. Any thoughts ??
Thank's in advance, John

Make sure that if you do this you (or have someone else better who can) do it good enough so it doesn't look like it has been done  . Good enough to be metal finished top AND BOTTOM side with no bondo. This is always a touchy subject.

[J_Speegle]

Got a few questions here, about my 68 S code GT Fastback, ( 7/18/68 built Metuchen car) I'st one should be easy...

1) I just got the body shell back from the media blasters, and he inadvertently blasted the metal dash panel, so I need the paint code ( or any suggestions on paint/flattener mix) I usually use PPG products but can cross another companys code. The car has a 6AA interior (Black Décor Bucket seats), also, do you guys use a primer under the black paint on the dash and in the engine compartment ?

Interior I don't primer under the Charcoal final finish  so that the original grain and details are crisp looking On engine compartment only a light coat so that the details are not muted

2) This car is a 60K mile car that was parked in 1973 after an accident, and has every indication of being an original, unmolested car (except for the accident damage to the left front) . I documented all the sealer/sound deadener locations, but this car appears to have been built on a Friday afternoon, as their appears to be way more sealer than normal in a lot of places, and it's really sloppily applied. There's a blob that looks like someone threw a golf ball size ball of sealer at the firewall just above the center of the trans tunnel, and 3/4 of the cowl drains were covered with sealer. There are other signs of shoddy assembly work, like a giant splash of contact cement in front of the gas tank in the trunk. The dolly bolts were tightened up on the left side of the car so tight that the holes in the trunk and on  the drivers side floor look countersunk 1/2", and there are numerous small areas left unwelded. 
My question, would most of you guys replicate the shoddy sealer and glue application, or would you tidy things up a bit. Also, should I fix the dolly bolt hole in the trunk where it's visible so it matches the other side, or leave it alone ?

As Marty suggested I to would redo the car as you found it, but would repair any glaring issue that would make the car unsafe or cause mechanical issues in the future after documenting well what you found. Believe most people here are a bit tired of the cookie cutter cars we see built today. The plants did have standards and turned out some really nice fitting and well done car but there were allot of somewhat unimportant and hidden areas where the focus was not on perfect (much like Italian built cars where good enough was good enough as long as it did the job.

Another thing that might help is not comparing what you see on yours and others then comparing them to restored cars.  In some/many cases what you see as sloppy is what was typical and what judges should be comfortable with IMHO if they are doing their homework. Again not focusing just on looking at restored cars

3) The drivers side front apron was replaced after another accident early in the cars life, and the repairman cut the VIN from the original apron, and screwed it to the new apron with 2 sheet metal screws. The second accident crunched the new apron, which I replaced with an NOS part, along with an NOS rad support. (The original VIN stamping is till present on the passenger side apron). I was going to Tig weld the original VIN into the new apron, but I'm not sure if this is an accepted practice for a concours restoration. Any thoughts ??

Other than being considered a federal offense unless you follow certain specific guidelines,  any work can effect the value of the car in the long run. Because of this some have chosen to not remove but instead slice around the number leaving that section attached to shock tower and with the original spot welds found there and taking allot of pictures. Unfortunately, by your description, that is not an option for you

An acceptable practice that some other follow is to get local law enforcement involved so that the repair is legal and above reproach. Around here I know of a number of cars that have been taken, the VIN erased and replaced by a new state issued VIN.  This always brings up a long discussion but there are many site that have discussed this in length over the last 10 plus years

A short    read from the Boss 302 site

http://www.boss302.com/legal.htm

As Bob mentioned as far as judging goes we judge what we see.  Remember when choosing parts NOS is not always like original so if there are tell tale signs that replacement has been made expect some extra investigation by the judges

[drummingrocks]

I agree with Bob Gaines.  If you have the skill to weld the VIN in the replacement panel, I'd go that route.  In my mind, if you know someone that can TIG (as you mentioned), then they're already a pretty accomplished welder.  TIG isn't something a newbie will pick up and run with, like MIG.