Topic: Painting Equipment for INSIDE of rocker panels, cowls, pillar posts, seat risers

[67gtasanjose]

Since most of these old cars never had any sealers, primers or paint sprayed or dipped on the majority of the unseen body panels, what types of internal spraying equipment (along the lines of Eastwoods Internal Exhaust Spray) is out there to "hose down" the insides of these bare metal areas that are rusting just a little bit more, day by day as time goes by.

Any ideas or knowledge that might neutralize any surface rusting and then the coating the areas with a sealer to prevent any recurrences.

Anybody recommend Eastwood Inside Frame Coating?



Richard

[67gtasanjose]

I thought I'd "bump" this one.

Has anyone ever tried the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating? (echo, echo, echo...)

[drummingrocks]

Richard,

I think the reason you may not be getting any responses is because Eastwood advertises this as an internal frame coating.  Maybe people are passing it over because Mustangs don't have a full frame?  Anyway, I know several people restoring vintage Corvettes have good luck with it.  You might check the C2/C3 forums on http://www.corvetteforum.com

And no, I won't tell anyone you went to a Corvette site if you won't tell anyone that I suggested it!!   

[67gtasanjose]

I think the reason you may not be getting any responses is because Eastwood advertises this as an internal frame coating. 

And no, I won't tell anyone you went to a Corvette site if you won't tell anyone that I suggested it!!   

Not to mention that since the FACTORY didn't put anything on the vast majority of these hidden areas (prone to rusting out), then ANY method suggested other than "bare naked metal" would NOT be concours, so making comments at this site might be trouble to anybody who approved, especially if somebody was "deducted points" at a show for having done such a treacherous thing. (OK, was that too sarcastic?  )

Richard

[drummingrocks]

Not to mention that since the FACTORY didn't put anything on the vast majority of these hidden areas (prone to rusting out), then ANY method suggested other than "bare naked metal" would NOT be concours, so making comments at this site might be trouble to anybody who approved, especially if somebody was "deducted points" at a show for having done such a treacherous thing. (OK, was that too sarcastic?  )

I approve 100%    My underlying goal is to keep my cars operable/on the road for as long as possible.  Ford didn't plan on these cars lasting more than 5 years, and it shows in a lot of ways.  Plus, there's lots to be said about 50+ years of production improvements!  Just because Ford didn't see fit to protect the cowl on these cars doesn't mean I'm going to leave my restorations with "concours" cowl holes, even if these cars were rusting from the day they were driven off the production line!  (sarcasm here too  )

[J_Speegle]

Some of the challenges IMHO - if you don't clean the interior surfaces down to good clean metal your only covering whatever is there. This can work to your advantage or speed up the rusting process as many owners of undercoated cars can attest to.

To clean these area completely I can't think of another affordable method other than dipping and personally I don't want to ever restore another dipped car. Only had to do that once to not want to repeat that.

I am aware that Jeremy at Maple Hill (great guy that does Virginia Mustang - Brant's cars) uses a product to seal and coat these interior surfaces or at least has done so on some of the restorations as shown in one or two of Brant's blogs on his site.

Not sure if Eastwood's product is a paint based or wax based (read Zebar) product. Luckily for people like me that live in the rust free zones I don't see the hidden surfaces to be an issue for another 50-75 years on our cars

[67gtasanjose]

I am aware that Jeremy at Maple Hill (great guy that does Virginia Mustang - Brant's cars) uses a product to seal and coat these interior surfaces or at least has done so on some of the restorations as shown in one or two of Brant's blogs on his site.


I saw that, and that is what got me thinking along these lines.


Not sure if Eastwood's product is a paint based or wax based (read Zebar) product. Luckily for people like me that live in the rust free zones I don't see the hidden surfaces to be an issue for another 50-75 years on our cars

Maybe some truth on your climate Jeff, but my car only spent 1/2 of one summer and a fall in Ohio outside as a driver, never saw the snow or salt and was indoors afterwards for 16 years. Prior to that it spent the first 30 years in arid Barstow and Palm Springs area. Only saw rain of So. Calif and car washes for those years. MICE seem to have helped add to whatever started naturally on it's own untreated cowl areas. Then there is some areas along the lower dash where the little fellas ran around that has some corrosion to clean off.  I'm sure 16 years of humidity helped too.


addressing the products content,

cut/pasted from this page:
http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html

Tough phenolic resin penetrates, converts and encapsulates the rust on the internal surface
Zinc phosphate seals it to prevent future corrosion
24"-long tube with conical nozzle reaches in to spray coating in a radial pattern for complete coverage
Covers 10 sq. ft. per can
Fully cures in 24 hours

Cans retail at $20 each, I'd say after reading some reviews, probably 3-4 cans could do a whole Mustang.

Richard

[Ashley]

Currently restoring a 71 J code Mach 1, used the Eastwood internal frame coating inside any enclosed areas. My car saw 2 Michigan winters.  Didn't have to do any floor pan or trunk area repairs.  Product is very fluid, which is good for flowing into small gaps in metal.   Connected 3 of the 24'' tubes for longer reach to enclosures with access hole on one end only.  Four cans should do complete car. My thinking is its better than nothing.         

[67gtasanjose]

I used up 2 cans of this stuff this morning. Definitely need about 4-5 cans per car.

I like-y! Good stuff! I shot the rockers, windshield & A-pillars, front frame rails under the floorpan, seat risers and along the rear wheel arc pinch-welds. Flows out very thin...the thin viscosity being what I like best about it. Over the wheel wells, you don't really even notice you have done it because the hose reaches deep into the crevice. You just KNOW this is better than bare metal.

Personally, I wouldn't NOT want to do this. I am ordering 3-more cans today

[NEFaurora]

Pictures are worth a thousand words... I got these from Virginia Classic Mustang Blog site long ago.

Transtar sealers are great stuff...Someone from CA turned me onto them in the past....

)

Tony K.

NOTE: The use of this product is not to reproduce any product or practice used at the Ford assembly plants but to protect these hidden surfaces from future rusting.  Link to whole blog explaining there application and usage. http://blog.virginiaclassicmustang.com/2013/05/just-details1965-mustang-convertible.html

[J_Speegle]

Pictures are worth a thousand words... I got these from VCM's website long ago... I don't think Jeremy@Maple Hill or Brant@VCM would mind them being used here... Just remove them if they ever become an issue.....

Will ask for you since you didn't 

Did you use this on your car??