Topic: Gun Bluing

[67gtasanjose]

OK, I'll be working on several items, so I couldn't see another better catagory to post.

I wish to purchase GUN BLUE to do the various items discussed in other threads such as driveshaft, tie rods, center link etc.

Questions are, What is reccomended (name brand). How much should be bought to do a whole car? A good source to purchase it?

What all items on a 67 San Jose should get done with this bluing treatment?

Thanks, Richard

[J_Speegle]

I've been happy with Birchwood Casey though the bottles are pretty small. Recently purchased a larger size from Shootersolutions (1 Quart Rugged Gun Concentrate) Seems to be working out just fine

What and how you use ti is sort of up to you and the technique's and effects your hoping for

For me I've used it to reproduce the darkened heat treated parts as well as the fresh bare metal (simply for removing the freshly clean - too bright or over worked metal look.

Some of the darkened pieces it can be used for - spindles, tie rod end cast sections, center link, strut rods, idler and pittman arm, u joint straps/restainers. Lots of nuts and bolts if you need to fake some phosphate and choose not to do the small batch or microwave.  Rear backing place and axle retaining bolts as well as front caliper or backing plate mounting bolts. I use it to tone U clips at time, small brake line clips both the 3 and S style along with the U shaped push in retainers. I've used it on the glove box strikers. Have sued it on front coils but its a pain to get a nice even look

Bare steel - rear end U loops, rear shock plates, steering shaft, steering box cover and even  the box, driveline heat bluing details as well as PS ram weld bluing. Transmission and rear end yokes. Darkening the stud welds and shafts on rear shackles as well as darkening the welds on the engine mount brackets


There is likely more items - just what I can recall off the top of my head

[livetoride60]

Jeff - how do you do the fresh bare metal look?  I read your gun blue instructions in the library, and you mentioned rubbing off some with steel wool.  Is that what you are referring to?  I have a couple very shiny strut rods that need toned down.

Thanks,
Rich

[J_Speegle]

Jeff - how do you do the fresh bare metal look?  I read your gun blue instructions in the library, and you mentioned rubbing off some with steel wool.  Is that what you are referring to?  I have a couple very shiny strut rods that need toned down.

Will take a little practice - the good think is that all you have to do is take it back to square one and start over if your not happy with the results the first time

The produces seem to be effected by how you apply the fluid. Using a brush or dipping should produce a quick darkening of the metal

But if you put a little of the fluid in a spray can lid (for example) so you don't cross contaminate the larger bottle dip a pad of steel wool into the fluid and rub it into the surface of the metal. You should see a slight to medium darkening of the metal and as you rub it should smooth out the look, and slightly darken the metal to a light dark (for lack of a better term) finish I tend to work the edges were bends were produced during the forming of the piece in an attempt at reproducing some subtle differences in in the over all finish - rather than a monotone you would expect with a darkened metal product

Not the best side by side example - but take notice how bright and reflective the one on the right is compared with the muted look of the one one the right after a little gun bluing

Contrast is greater in person

[livetoride60]

Thanks Jeff as always for the explanation and pictures.  However that seems like it is too dark for bare steel, like a strut rod.   That looks almost black.  Am I missing something here, like is the picture not representative of the shade, or are strut rods and other bare steel items supposed to be that dark?  Usually I see strut rods that are a steel gray.  I can start a new topic if needed.

Thanks,
Rich

[mtinkham]

Jeff, thank you for sharing the details....to me that is art!

[J_Speegle]

Thanks Jeff as always for the explanation and pictures.  However that seems like it is too dark for bare steel, like a strut rod.   That looks almost black.  Am I missing something here, like is the picture not representative of the shade

As we've mentioned many times - its difficult to get a true idea of finishes, tone or tint in pictures - lots of variables

Its likely the lighting and lack of flash (flash would have made it too light IMHO) that contibuted to the look for you.

Have used this for 15-18 years on many show cars and never had a judge or spectator mention the finish at all. Always figure that if they don't mention - it didn't stand out as off or incorrect


Maybe this picture will help not for the real tone but through contrasting the different surfaces. Upper bare A arm, spindle (looks a little light in this picture - maybe the angle) tie rod, caliper mount with machined surfaces, strut rod and painted sway bar . Yes I know those are bolt in upper ball joints. Sure those got replaced by the guy I sold the car too




And another example of how different things can look - same part, taken the same day and time. Very different look.  BTW this spindle was not recolored (gun bluing or anything else applied) just cleaned and machined surfaces brightened

or are strut rods and other bare steel items supposed to be that dark?  Usually I see strut rods that are a steel gray.  I can start a new topic if needed.

When you usually see them are they on restored cars?

Since they were treated and formed the same way as the center link (cast and heat treated) I would expect and have seen them that darker tone on original cars (when they are not rusty) or as service replacements . Though I will admit that the 65-66 versions do appear on nice original cars to be a light tone that the later cars in general - Some where in between I would offer  bare steel and spindle color for some reason.

Maybe the examples I've seen were ones that were dipped in cleaner quenching oil. The number of nice original examples is limited

For the new steel look you may be able to get to the same spot by using Evapo-Rust and lighten the bends and (to a lesser amount) the general surface