Topic: I found a NOS exhaust system for my Mustang. How can I protect it from rusting

[79mustangcobra]

Hello all

I found a NOS exhaust system for my Mustang.  How can I protect it from rusting.

I have heard people say well you should get stainless, but that is not factory correct.  I know it will rust eventually, but was wondering is there any kind of coating I could use to slow down the process?

Thanks

David

[Bob Gaines]

Hello all

I found a NOS exhaust system for my Mustang.  How can I protect it from rusting.

I have heard people say well you should get stainless, but that is not factory correct.  I know it will rust eventually, but was wondering is there any kind of coating I could use to slow down the process?

Thanks

David

VHT high heat clear . It will slow the process down down but will require attention every month plus or minus depending on how the car is driven and climate it is driven and stored in. It will sometime yellow and will remain sticky if applied to heavy . FYI exhaust systems rust from the inside out typically so in theory even with the outside un rusted over time the inside rust will eventually rust through. If car is undriven or just on and off trailer etc. then T9 Boeshield will work.

[79mustangcobra]

VHT high heat clear . It will slow the process down down but will require attention every month plus or minus depending on how the car is driven and climate it is driven and stored in. It will sometime yellow and will remain sticky if applied to heavy . FYI exhaust systems rust from the inside out typically so in theory even with the outside un rusted over time the inside rust will eventually rust through. If car is undriven or just on and off trailer etc. then T9 Boeshield will work.

Hi Bob,

The car will not be driven often.  It will be used as a show car.  I will start it up each month and drive around the block the make sure all is working ok.  With that said would the T9 Boeshield work?  I also have heard of putting a ziplock bag at the end of the exhaust tip to prevent condensation. 

I also don't have a problem respraying it after each start as long as it works. 

Thanks for the feedback!

[Bob Gaines]

Hi Bob,

The car will not be driven often.  It will be used as a show car.  I will start it up each month and drive around the block the make sure all is working ok.  With that said would the T9 Boeshield work?  I also have heard of putting a ziplock bag at the end of the exhaust tip to prevent condensation. 

I also don't have a problem respraying it after each start as long as it works. 

Thanks for the feedback!

Yes the boe shield will work. Over time the boe shield has a tendency to darken the metal compared to fresh some what but not that much so don't be surprised. the clear VHT does the same thing it just doesn't burn off like the boeshield would on a driven car. Just go over the boe shield every month or so or even every time you start the car like you say you may do. The bag trick will be pretty useless because as the engine heats up once started and cools that is the time that condensation of water happens inside the exhaust. If you never started the car (some show cars don't even have fluids) the exhaust could conceivably last indefinitely .  Putting the bag on the tip after shutting off the car would most likely make things worse sealing the moisture in that is already there. FYI the destruction/rust through time wise of the exhaust based on your description of occasionally starting and driving around the block and given the precautions we are talking about would be decades before rust through anyway.   

[79mustangcobra]

Yes the boe shield will work. Over time the boe shield has a tendency to darken the metal compared to fresh some what but not that much so don't be surprised. the clear VHT does the same thing it just doesn't burn off like the boeshield would on a driven car. Just go over the boe shield every month or so or even every time you start the car like you say you may do. The bag trick will be pretty useless because as the engine heats up once started and cools that is the time that condensation of water happens inside the exhaust. If you never started the car (some show cars don't even have fluids) the exhaust could conceivably last indefinitely .  Putting the bag on the tip after shutting off the car would most likely make things worse sealing the moisture in that is already there. FYI the destruction/rust through time wise of the exhaust based on your description of occasionally starting and driving around the block and given the precautions we are talking about would be decades before rust through anyway.

Thanks Bob.  I know you know that at MCA events we have to start the car.  Plus I would have to drive its spot.

[J_Speegle]

Thanks Bob.  I know you know that at MCA events we have to start the car.  Plus I would have to drive its spot.

Hasn't always been that way for all classes 

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Bob.  I know you know that at MCA events we have to start the car.  Plus I would have to drive its spot.

That is up to you which venue you show the car in . You are presuming that I think that MCA is the only concours venue that you may want to enter. There are countless dozens across the country many of which do not have a operational checks. As Jeff mentioned there have even been some exceptions to the starting and driving issue in the past at MCA in the Thoroughbred class. I was really only mentioning it so that you would understand that you do have choices and not starting was just one of them.

[nham3407]

I do agree with the comments thus far.  Eastwood carries an internal exhaust manifold paint/sealent that I used in my 72 exhaust system.  Once the pipes were welded I utilized the long hose nozzle sprayer they have available and ran it on the inside of the pipes to coat them internally.  I agree that very often the pipes rust from the inside out from periodically starting the car and condensation forming in the exhaust system that remains after shutdown.  They all will eventually rust out, but these suggestions may give you the longest possible life.

[79mustangcobra]

That is up to you which venue you show the car in . You are presuming that I think that MCA is the only concours venue that you may want to enter. There are countless dozens across the country many of which do not have a operational checks. As Jeff mentioned there have even been some exceptions to the starting and driving issue in the past at MCA in the Thoroughbred class. I was really only mentioning it so that you would understand that you do have choices and not starting was just one of them.

That is both great points by you and Jeff - thanks!

[79mustangcobra]

I do agree with the comments thus far.  Eastwood carries an internal exhaust manifold paint/sealent that I used in my 72 exhaust system.  Once the pipes were welded I utilized the long hose nozzle sprayer they have available and ran it on the inside of the pipes to coat them internally.  I agree that very often the pipes rust from the inside out from periodically starting the car and condensation forming in the exhaust system that remains after shutdown.  They all will eventually rust out, but these suggestions may give you the longest possible life.

I will try this - thanks!!

[79mustangcobra]

I found this product called Sharkhide.  I emailed the company and they said it will work on exhaust.



"Hi David,
We do use Sharkhide on exhaust systems. But I’ll tell you to always try a small spot first.
I hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Clint Bland
Flatwater Inc.
618-624-4091"

http://www.sharkhide.com/mpinfo.html