Topic: Suspension questions

[jperls]

Hi everyone,

So I just had my shot shock absorbers replaced (KYB Gas-adjust...was not sure if there was a re-model of the original motorcraft shocks). While these were getting replaced, the mechanic I used noted that it was time that I get my front end rebuilt. All bushings as well as upper and lower control arms. The rubber bushings on the car survived for 40 + years (my mom never had the suspension rebuilt) so I am not afraid to go with new rubber bushings for an original ride. However, I think it might be time to replace the actual upper and lower control arms instead of pressing in new ball joints.

What do you all recommend I do...what brands of upper and lower control arms do you recommend? I have been looking at kits by performance suspension technology (not too bad, about $559 for a complete front end kit).

However, to save on labor, I am thinking of doing the project myself. My mustang weighs about 3,500lbs (guessing...know that the curb weight of a mustang convertible with a 302-2V with C4 transmission is approximately 3,150lbs). The reason why I give the higher estimate for weight is because while it is a stock car, I would rather over-estimate the weight of the car than under-estimate it (even though no major modification of sorts have been made except the color of the exterior paint and color of the interior).

So my second question is...what brand of jack stands do you all recommend and how much support should they hold (been thinking about 3 tons...just for added safety).

And one final note...when I had the shocks replaced, I was lucky and found the body-buck tag...in a pretty odd place...attached to back the vertical portion of the back seat. Was this typical for the 1970 convertibles built a Dearborn?

Thanks,

Jason

[jimhib]

  Unless the control arms are bent or damaged I'd say keep them, you can only be original once. New ball joints will most likely be bolt ins and not press. Also replace the upper control arm shaft and bushings, they're the cause of your squeaking in the front end if its happening. If you'd like to stay near original for close to original ride go with rubber, if you're looking for durability go with urethane bushings. During this front end work you might want to check the strut rod bushings along with the threads. Quite often the threads fail and won't allow adjustment. They have to be adjustable in order to do a proper front end alignment. Also start shopping now for the proper strut rods, if its a 69 there is a reduced thread on the last half inch of each rod. The repos will work but they're usually not the same as originals.

[jimhib]

I forgot about the jack stands, don't get small ones, Harbor freight has a heavy duty orange unit that will allow you to jack it up on all fours and do some serious tugging and hammering without worry about it falling over.
    I would think the tag you found might have been a seat tag, the buck tag was normally under the hood on 69's but hey, I've seen strange things in these cars.

[J_Speegle]

So I just had my shot shock absorbers replaced (KYB Gas-adjust...was not sure if there was a re-model of the original motorcraft shocks). While these were getting replaced, the mechanic I used noted that it was time that I get my front end rebuilt. All bushings as well as upper and lower control arms. The rubber bushings on the car survived for 40 + years (my mom never had the suspension rebuilt) so I am not afraid to go with new rubber bushings for an original ride. However, I think it might be time to replace the actual upper and lower control arms instead of pressing in new ball joints.

What do you all recommend I do...what brands of upper and lower control arms do you recommend? I have been looking at kits by performance suspension technology (not too bad, about $559 for a complete front end kit).

I would reuse as much as possible - not going to be cheaper but at least it will be right

So my second question is...what brand of jack stands do you all recommend and how much support should they hold (been thinking about 3 tons...just for added safety).

All of them (well just about all) will be made in China so just get some heavy duty ones and use them as designed. Harbor freight ones (the big cast ones) should work just fine as mentioned. If you don't have access to a lift they are your next choice.

And one final note...when I had the shocks replaced, I was lucky and found the body-buck tag...in a pretty odd place...attached to back the vertical portion of the back seat. Was this typical for the 1970 convertibles built a Dearborn?

Buck tags were not attached to seats. Seats were not even installed in the car when the buck tag was of use to the workers and attached to the rear seat would not be a location where workers could easily see the codes to know what parts to weld or paint the body

[jmlay]

The seats do have a tag with some information but it is def not a buck tag. Random picture from the net:

[jperls]

Thank you everyone for the responses. I will do my best to keep as much stock as possible...however I will need to replace the upper control arm shafts...that is a must. I will also keep all the suspension bushings rubber.