Topic: 1967-68 Safety Convenience System - Application, Components, Wiring, Lenses and Bulbs

[ruppstang]

ON TOPIC:
Are Mike's lenses "original" or the reproduction? (his example has a "SEAT" not a "BELT" lamp)  Are they all installed in the correct locations for his build date & plant
 Richard

I do not believe that the indicator that says Seat is correct all of mine 67 and 68 say Belt   . I will check on the locations.
Marty   

[67gtasanjose]

Bueller?  Bueller?

We might also be looking for input on the radio knobs if possible...and Mike, why does your radio crooked? Is that a camera angle or maybe the mounting holes of the radio plate hogged out? (just asking...you did want to get this concours correct, right?)

Richard

[mikelj5S230]

Must be the camera angle, when I look at it straight on, it is square and straight across.  However, it doesn't work, but guess nothing gets tested in judging anyway, right?

[mikelj5S230]

So far the research I have been able to do shows the single bar above the radio (non-console cars) had "Belt" instead of "Seat", in early cars.  However, I have seen no firm evidence that the console cars, especially late ones like mine, had that or that the positions were any different than mine.  Anyone have evidence to the contrary to present?

[67gtasanjose]

New images uploaded in the Library section of this forum last week that make reference to the early design "bulb test" lead that initially (or at least in San Jose) ran along the route of the headlamp harness instead of running back along the right hand strut brace as pictured in the Osborne Assembly manuals.

These images may assist in the correct layout of that wire.

My example has a clip located over the brake booster, slid over the pinch weld of the cowl, to hold the wire up at that location. A picture would (or could) be taken upon request, but at this time, it is in a stack of sacked "items to be detailed" and difficult to get a quick picture. I will try and upload the image later (when I go through these items again)

Refer to Replies #23-27 in this thread for more details of this discussion.

This lead was also used in the Cruise Control installations seemingly for both factory installed and/or dealer installed cruise controls. It would stand to reason that while doing an cruise control installation into a car with Convenience Control, that either the early or the late design "bulb test" lead would be tied into instead of running the kit supplied lead (which is presumably the long or "early" type, looking at the article in the Library)

Richard

[gwells67]

Hi All,
Me again.  After almost a year I am back on this project.  Good news is you guys were spot on my Door light issue.  I took the door switch out and the tab was out of alignment; fixed it right up.

Now on to my question:  It seems like my seatbelt and parking brake light housings are grounding themselves to the console.  That seems to cause them to not work properly.  When I pull them out and just let them hang, they work as expected.  Any thoughts?

It also seems like I have an issue with my gauge cluster (maybe related?).  This may not be related but there seems to be some really smart people on this thread so maybe you can help   Basic problem is as follows:
-Fuel Gauge doesn't work
-Temp Gauge doesn't work
-Instrument voltage regulator getting very hot
-Fuel light comes on when the car starts (the test) but does not come on when out of fuel..I have not taken the sending unit it out of the car though.

What I've tried:
-New Instrument voltage regulator
-Extra ground wire from cluster to car

Other tests I've run
-Sending unit tests (they seem fine)
--Fuel sending unit has 2 wires and I can get both the fuel light and gauge to react.
--I believe that one wire to the fuel sending is  full 14v, the other has trace voltage?
--Putting power to the temp sending wire will also pin the temp gauge

[midlife]

Other tests I've run
-Sending unit tests (they seem fine)
--Fuel sending unit has 2 wires and I can get both the fuel light and gauge to react.
--I believe that one wire to the fuel sending is  full 14v, the other has trace voltage?
--Putting power to the temp sending wire will also pin the temp gauge

That doesn't sound right, unless the green/yellow wire that is full 12V is the low fuel line.  I'm not entirely clear how that system functions, but I believe when the fuel is low, that sensor reads ground.  Neither line should be full voltage, but I could be wrong.

You never want to put full power to the temp sending wire to test the gauges; only ground (briefly) the sending unit line and the gauge should plug.

I'd check your temp gauge for an internal short to ground and pull the low fuel relay out of its connector for trouble-shooting.

[luddde]

Hi folks! Does anyone have a picture of those early lamps lighted up? Have searched my ass off around the web, but haven´t found any pics. Also, are the lenses convex or flat and are they all black when not lighted?
Thanx/ Oskar

[67gtasanjose]

Here is a sample of the PARK lens. PARK and SEAT are red font when lit, black when not lit. FUEL & DOOR are blue font when lit, blackout when not

[ruppstang]

I have them in my car and will post some pics unless some else has some. The lenses are flat and appear black when not lit. You might see them in some 67 Ford sales brochures.
Marty

[67gtasanjose]

I have them in my car and will post some pics unless some else has some. The lenses are flat and appear black when not lit. You might see them in some 67 Ford sales brochures.
Marty

To add to Mart's description, the LATER version used the same bezels (chrome trim) however there was white font visable on the lense without being lit and ALL 4 were RED, the blue light special went away

Richard

[67gtasanjose]

Thanks for asking this question, I didn't realize I had no pictures of the details you asked about. Good to add images for others to see.
Here are some images I had saved a link to from an eBay listing several weeks ago. Fortunately, I still had the link available to scab some images from.

This should help a lot.


ONE POINT OF CLARITY: the picture of the SIDE VIEW is for an Early COUGAR, not Mustang. The spring clips are closer to the chrome bezels on the Mustang specific lenses. VERY early Cougars, before the XR7 was offered, could have had this option too with the blackout lenses, but Cougars had a padded console so the lamps were built different to accommodate the padding. After the XR7 entered the scene, my understanding is this option was not offered on the base model Cougar any longer. Maybe somebody better versed in COUGAR could verify that bit of info.
 
Richard

[luddde]

Thanks for the answers and the pics! First time I ever get to see those. The font look surprisingly sharp and crisp and they sure look nicer than the white-on-red ones.
So, more questions. I´ve understood that the order for the white-on-red is Lh upper: BELTS Rh upper: PARK Lh lower: DOOR and Rh lower: FUEL on A/C cars. Is this correct, and is it correct also for the early lights? And is it the same order left to right for non A/C cars?
Can someone take the measurement of the diameter of the actual plastic lens, the height of the letters and the length of the words? This would make my day.
Thanx/ Oskar

[67gtasanjose]

I have no way of accurately measuring the items you ask about. I cannot imagine making your own would be cost effective unless you made several hundred sets for sale and "eventually" recover your investment.

Do an ebay search for "Mustang Convenience" and not only are the lights I showed images STILL available (at time of writing this) but the seller has a few individual lamps available too. My suggestion is to hunt and buy a few or a set. The ones for sale now on the 'Bay have been there a few weeks now. Message him and make a reasonable offer. The Cougar lamps can be used if you add a washer or two on the backside to shim them. Otherwise, the lenses and bezels are correct at least.

I say this because I spent about 9 years hunting basically 1 early style FUEL lens, trying to be "cheap" and get one from a set or parts and pieces to no avail. FINDING them was the hard part, trying to be cheap only caused me to loose out on the availability virtually every time. I ended up figuring out that some things you just have to go "All In" on, if you wish to succeed in obtaining them. In the end, last year I finally got my lens PLUS I ended up with a better PARK lens AND I got almost if not all of my investments back. Some things never loose their value. This is One of those such things.

Richard

[ruppstang]

Here is a picture and information out of the 67 Ford option sales catalogue.
Marty