Topic: Stock San Jose 1970 302 2v Photo???

[jperls]

Could almost be a copy of fastfret7's car. Same/similar color, blacked out hinges, FRONT decal .......


Need to find a paper covered vapor return (air cleaner to charcoal canister) hose. Those are pretty hard to find. Check other Ford brands - know others found some NOS Bronco  ones that could be cut in half to make a couple for two Mustangs

Was not aware of the paper tube for the charcoal canister. I just used what I though originally came on the car when my mom bought it used in 1971. Also, if you look closely, the intake manifold is painted the darker corporate blue. This was on purpose because before I repainted the engine, I made sure I matched the colors to what was originally on there. Used Duplicolor as the company for the painting. Also, I will upload some more recent photos and in there, I have taken off the "Front" sticker since I now understand that it was incorrect to have it on there in the first place (at least I think so...car rolled off the line December 31, 1969...five days ahead of schedule).

Any suggestion on what I can further do to make my engine correct will be helpful. Also, I noticed I have a 4-balde cooling fan on my car. However, when I have looked at NPD, I noticed that they said the 4-blade was only for 200CID and some 289 engines and that the 6-blades were for 302 engines (non clutch fan) are they correct and should I change it out or leave it alone (though I must admit, switching to the 6-blade for extra cooling would be nice...but stock first...mods second)?

Also, anyone know where I can find the OK stamp...need to put that on the valve cover.

[fastfret7]

It's interesting because I asked like 12 forum people(other website) about the correct color to paint the whole engine and they told me the engine block, power steering, manifold, heads, and valve covers should be dark blue for a 1970 302... So confused. Just wish I could get a straight answer. Now, my stickers are remake crap.. Darn it!

[jperls]

It's interesting because I asked like 12 forum people(other website) about the correct color to paint the whole engine and they told me the engine block, power steering, manifold, heads, and valve covers should be dark blue for a 1970 302... So confused. Just wish I could get a straight answer. Now, my stickers are remake crap.. Darn it!

You are not the only one...LOL...it all depends on where your mustang was built, when it was built, and other factors. For my mustang, I just matched the paint that was already on the engine before I re-painted it. So I am fairly certain for my mustang, I am correct. As for yours, I don't know...I can say this...as long as it is some sort of Ford Blue, I am sure you ok.

[J_Speegle]

Was not aware of the paper tube for the charcoal canister. I just used what I though originally came on the car when my mom bought it used in 1971. Also, if you look closely, the intake manifold is painted the darker corporate blue.

The whole engine would have been painted the same color - all painted at the same time by the same painter

This was on purpose because before I repainted the engine, I made sure I matched the colors to what was originally on there. Used Duplicolor as the company for the painting. Also, I will upload some more recent photos and in there, I have taken off the "Front" sticker since I now understand that it was incorrect to have it on there in the first place (at least I think so...car rolled off the line December 31, 1969...five days ahead of schedule).

No FRONT decals were used on 70 Mustangs on the air cleaners

Any suggestion on what I can further do to make my engine correct will be helpful. Also, I noticed I have a 4-balde cooling fan on my car. However, when I have looked at NPD, I noticed that they said the 4-blade was only for 200CID and some 289 engines and that the 6-blades were for 302 engines (non clutch fan) are they correct and should I change it out or leave it alone (though I must admit, switching to the 6-blade for extra cooling would be nice...but stock first...mods second)?

Will have to look (through the [parts books)  to see. One handy stops (print date) in 68

Also, anyone know where I can find the OK stamp...need to put that on the valve cover.

IMHO you need to deal with all the other details before you worry about and  ink stamp. No one is reproducing the stamp for your car unlike the ones flating around for the Boss 302 and the 428 CJ

[J_Speegle]

It's interesting because I asked like 12 forum people(other website) about the correct color to paint the whole engine and they told me the engine block, power steering, manifold, heads, and valve covers should be dark blue for a 1970 302... So confused.....

Can only guess which "other" web site that was 

All depends on who is answering and what they offer to support their suggestions along with their experiences. Knowing allot of people here I would think we have combined judging and restoring experience totaling almost 500 years or so. Buy that makes some of us feel really old

[jperls]

The whole engine would have been painted the same color - all painted at the same time by the same painter



No FRONT decals were used on 70 Mustangs on the air cleaners

Will have to look (through the [parts books)  to see. One handy stops (print date) in 68




IMHO you need to deal with all the other details before you worry about and  ink stamp. No one is reproducing the stamp for your car unlike the ones flating around for the Boss 302 and the 428 CJ

What other details are those? Will spray the intake manifold the ford blue that the rest of the car has this weekend. Found a template that can be used to make the stamp...will get around to that eventually.

[J_Speegle]

What other details are those? Will spray the intake manifold the ford blue that the rest of the car has this weekend. Found a template that can be used to make the stamp...will get around to that eventually.

Trying to be helpful - not picking on you

- Fender attachment bolts

- Shock bolts

- Finish of inner fender /shock cover bolts

- Hood hinges, springs and mounting bolts

- Negative battery cable - not sure if its the wrong one (with the extra ground) but the clamp would not be there at all

- Repair work - taping on convertible top wiring

- Shock color (and style) firewall support braces - hardware

- Ported vacuum switch - not factory and its completely painted

- Paint condition of the intake

- Condition of the alternator

- Distributor hold down and hardware condition and finish

- Radiator cap

- CAUTION FAN decal is not original

- Aftermarket wire wrap on the engine wire loom

- Lack of j hooks to hole the engine wire loom to engine along the drivers side valve cover

- PS pump color & COndition of dip stick - rust

- Zip ties on the drivers side wire loom

- Washer bottle hardware finish

- Radiator overflow hose has been painted

- Condition of battery hold down clamp  and missing hardware

- Paint on the wire looms

- Condition of the heater hose tube and coil bracket

- Wiper motor wire loom is not anchored to the firewall/cowl pinch weld. Wiper motor ground wire painted over, along with the grounding screw and rubber plug in the center of cowl

- Master cylinder and cap finish and condition

- Not sure what the wire is that is going into the distributor at the front edge - where it looks to be taped over ?? Or the aluminum boss from the base on the drivers side. Given the vacuum advance it looks like a later unit from something else.  Have you ever looked at the markings on this??

- Condition of the fuel line and the heater hose attachment point - both are rusty

- Wrong valve cover gaskets

- Dip stick unpainted

- Battery tag on retaining bolt

- Painted edge (black ) along the fenders - looks like the fende3rs were tapped off then the engine compartment was painted - unlike originally

- Painted radiator shroud


That's a start

Don't know what factory (sorry if you did - I seem to not be able to find that detail) the car was built at. Depending on that detail there are possibly another 6 or so things I would have mentioned


Consider that the lack of a paint mark or inspector mark will not lose you any point in most restored class  but any of the above mentioned things will. My reason to suggest focusing on where you'll lose points

[jperls]

Trying to be helpful - not picking on you

- Fender attachment bolts

- Shock bolts

- Finish of inner fender /shock cover bolts

- Hood hinges, springs and mounting bolts

- Negative battery cable - not sure if its the wrong one (with the extra ground) but the clamp would not be there at all

- Repair work - taping on convertible top wiring

- Shock color (and style) firewall support braces - hardware

- Ported vacuum switch - not factory and its completely painted

- Paint condition of the intake

- Condition of the alternator

- Distributor hold down and hardware condition and finish

- Radiator cap

- CAUTION FAN decal is not original

- Aftermarket wire wrap on the engine wire loom

- Lack of j hooks to hole the engine wire loom to engine along the drivers side valve cover

- PS pump color & COndition of dip stick - rust

- Zip ties on the drivers side wire loom

- Washer bottle hardware finish

- Radiator overflow hose has been painted

- Condition of battery hold down clamp  and missing hardware

- Paint on the wire looms

- Condition of the heater hose tube and coil bracket

- Wiper motor wire loom is not anchored to the firewall/cowl pinch weld. Wiper motor ground wire painted over, along with the grounding screw and rubber plug in the center of cowl

- Master cylinder and cap finish and condition

- Not sure what the wire is that is going into the distributor at the front edge - where it looks to be taped over ?? Or the aluminum boss from the base on the drivers side. Given the vacuum advance it looks like a later unit from something else.  Have you ever looked at the markings on this??

- Condition of the fuel line and the heater hose attachment point - both are rusty

- Wrong valve cover gaskets

- Dip stick unpainted

- Battery tag on retaining bolt

- Painted edge (black ) along the fenders - looks like the fende3rs were tapped off then the engine compartment was painted - unlike originally

- Painted radiator shroud


That's a start

Don't know what factory (sorry if you did - I seem to not be able to find that detail) the car was built at. Depending on that detail there are possibly another 6 or so things I would have mentioned


Consider that the lack of a paint mark or inspector mark will not lose you any point in most restored class  but any of the above mentioned things will. My reason to suggest focusing on where you'll lose points

Not picking on me...more like being thrown to the wolves (meant in jest)...lol...like I said, the pic on the forum is not updated...however I do need to point out one thing...the radiator cap is the correct MOTORCRAFT cap..and yes I am aware of the vacuum advanced diaphragm is wrong...unfortunately, the original distributor went out about 2 years back and my mechanic put in this one. I know this car is nowhere near concours worthy (hence never entering it in judging contests or nationals)...but, I just was curious...as for some of the paint that is mentioned (i.e. inner fenders)...that is the original paint, the reason why it looks like it was "taped off" was when the car was re-painted in 2009, they taped the fenders off to prevent over-spary.

Also, if one considers that the engine went from the photo below to what it is now...I say I have not done that bad of a job (at least that is what I thought until all of the above was pointed out).

[J_Speegle]

Not picking on me...more like being thrown to the wolves (meant in jest)...lol...

Nope - not at all. You asked and I simply answered

like I said, the pic on the forum is not updated...however I do need to point out one thing...the radiator cap is the correct MOTORCRAFT cap.

Motorcraft is not correct - for 70 it would be AUTOLITE and shaped differently. MOTORCRAFT parts on the line were introduced during 1972 production (my understanding - as listed in MCA rules)


You've done allot - and have a bit more to do - if your interested in having as original

[jperls]

Nope - not at all. You asked and I simply answered


Motorcraft is not correct - for 70 it would be AUTOLITE and shaped differently. MOTORCRAFT parts on the line were introduced during 1972 production (my understanding - as listed in MCA rules)


You've done allot - and have a bit more to do - if your interested in having as original

Well...thanks. I must admit, there is no way I will be able to get it back to original condition (already did to many mods to other parts of the car (i.e. paint job and interior...now a new top). So the big question is...are there any MAJOR flaws with how the motor looks (i.e. something that is obviously out of place that even a novice would notice)?

Most likely will get an autolite cap this weekend.

Jason

[J_Speegle]

.........So the big question is...are there any MAJOR flaws with how the motor looks (i.e. something that is obviously out of place that even a novice would notice)?

Major flaws is such a strong term I think for what we're discussing which is simply making it more like it was originally

For novices I would say that the condition and finishes is something that anyone at a show will take notice of and the one that takes the most time but in general cost the least - out of pocket.

After that the fender bolts would be obvious as would the distributor and PS pump color. For any one that has looked at any of the major forums the CAUTION FAN decal would stand out since that one has been mentioned in hundreds of post across the internet

[jperls]

Major flaws is such a strong term I think for what we're discussing which is simply making it more like it was originally

For novices I would say that the condition and finishes is something that anyone at a show will take notice of and the one that takes the most time but in general cost the least - out of pocket.

After that the fender bolts would be obvious as would the distributor and PS pump color. For any one that has looked at any of the major forums the CAUTION FAN decal would stand out since that one has been mentioned in hundreds of post across the internet

I will upload a current photo of the engine bay sometime this weekend. The fender bolts have been changed back to the originals (unfortunately they have been painted over) and the distributor cap has already been replaced (if you are talking about the vacuum advanced...that is a horse of a different color)...I will take off the caution fan decal and will also order the correct radiator cap, distributor cap, and oil filter. But no more after that...I guess after all the suggestions that were made, I have come to realize that my car is more of a redo-mod than it is a concours car.

[J_Speegle]

Every little bit helps as long as it fits with your goal and your planned usage.

Noticed the thumbnail of your car. Always like the 70 convertibles - had a special order paint deluxe interior one (for the wife)  before we sold it to buy the Shelby for her.  Local shop (Resto Mod shop) currently has three 70 convertibles in for full restoration - you don't often see a single one so three in one shop is allot.  Also looked as an original owner 428 CJ one also recently

Good luck with the car

[jperls]

Every little bit helps as long as it fits with your goal and your planned usage.

Noticed the thumbnail of your car. Always like the 70 convertibles - had a special order paint deluxe interior one (for the wife)  before we sold it to buy the Shelby for her.  Local shop (Resto Mod shop) currently has three 70 convertibles in for full restoration - you don't often see a single one so three in one shop is allot.  Also looked as an original owner 428 CJ one also recently

Good luck with the car

Thanks...

Have started process of addressing some problems mentioned above...will give status update soon. However while completely unrelated to this topic, I have received a set of NOS tail light bezels (still in the original ford box) and have installed them on my car.

[jperls]

New photo (finally. Thrash away (meaning let me know what else has to be done) ladies and gentlemen. I have decided to leave the Caution Fan decal on only because I like it. Like I have said (or at least I think I have said), there is no way my car will ever be concours, but I wan't to at least give the appearance of a stock motor.

A couple of things have happened since the photo was taken:

 1. All the rust throughout the engine bay has been removed (especially on the heater hose ports)...have not been able to get to the alternator fan yet (need to remove the alternator to do this...might paint the fan and the pulley IF they were originally painted and if so...what color...if not, can I get away with clear coating these parts to prevent rust).

2. Battery hold-down clam was re-painted balck and rust removed

3. Batter hold down clamps rust was removed...

4. battery hold down nuts are now correct type (locking washer thingys...lol...I don't know the name)

5. All exposed wires were covered with original wire wrapping tape (thank you national parts depot)

6. All non-stock wire loom wrapping has been removed.

More suggestions are appreciated.

Oh...one upcoming upgrade...correct emissions decal will be put on snorkel.

Cheers