Topic: Reusing Original Tie Rods

[68OrangeCrate]

I'm in the process of dismantling the power steering setup on my GT/CS.  I'm having a heck of a time trying to separate the tie rods from the center link.  I'm looking for the right type/size puller to use.  While attempting to use a pitman arm type puller, I noticed that I'm risking damage to the end of the tie rod bearing bolt.

The above got me to thinking that the original tie rods may be unsafe to reuse.  I found a post that Jeff made on the subject, so I thought I'd throw the question back out there:  Reuse the old ones, or definitely replace?  I do plan on driving the car.....

Thanks!

[Rsanter]

There is a special little puller that does a perfect job with no damage.
I will get a picture of mine for you

Bob

[68OrangeCrate]

Thanks Bob.... What are your thoughts on reusing the original tie rods?

Mike

[mgmradio]

If the tie rod end is still good it can be reused.

[68OrangeCrate]

If the tie rod end is still good it can be reused.

Good.... That's my objective.  Now if I can get them off without screwing them up!  (Guess that's part of the challenge )

[jwc66k]

Look in the library section, you will find a section on doing some final touch-up to the finish on older style tie rods. (There's a lot of other stuff there too.)
I refinished mine this way: remove the seal; clean all the grease away from the stud; apply Permatex Blue RTV sealer, see previous step about "cleaning" (the Permatex has to stick), around the stud to keep grass beads and phosphating liquid out: let the sealer dry - this may take a couple of weeks; bead blast exposed metal; lightly phosphate the tie rod; oil the surface; scrape away the Blue RTV; with a new seal, C5ZZ-3332-A, pack in some new grease (the current batches have a service part number molded on the edge which needs to be removed. That step is somewhere on this forum as well - use the search feature. The only marking on my factory originals are "GS", "12-18" and a two number mold ID.) Don't forget to refinish the adjusting sleeve, clamps and bolts.
Here's some pictures. I'm not done yet. The last one shows the part number that needs to be removed.
Jim

[68OrangeCrate]

Great!  Thanks Jim.... I guess that's why they call me a "newbie"!  Learning to use this great site....

Mike

[68OrangeCrate]

Look in the library section, you will find a section on doing some final touch-up to the finish on older style tie rods. (There's a lot of other stuff there too.)
I refinished mine this way: remove the seal; clean all the grease away from the stud; apply Permatex Blue RTV sealer, see previous step about "cleaning" (the Permatex has to stick), around the stud to keep grass beads and phosphating liquid out: let the sealer dry - this may take a couple of weeks; bead blast exposed metal; lightly phosphate the tie rod; oil the surface; scrape away the Blue RTV; with a new seal, C5ZZ-3332-A, pack in some new grease (the current batches have a service part number molded on the edge which needs to be removed. That step is somewhere on this forum as well - use the search feature. The only marking on my factory originals are "GS", "12-18" and a two number mold ID.) Don't forget to refinish the adjusting sleeve, clamps and bolts.
Here's some pictures. I'm not done yet. The last one shows the part number that needs to be removed.
Jim

What are you using for oil, Jim?  I'm planning on replacing the seals with Scott Fuller repro's....

[jwc66k]

What are you using for oil, Jim?  I'm planning on replacing the seals with Scott Fuller repro's....

I use a couple of different oils, methods and combinations: dipped in 20W on movable parts; sprayed WD40 on hard to get at spots on large parts; 3 in 1 Oil on small parts; kerosene (it leaves a trace of preservative to reduce rust);  sometimes anything that's handy. What I've found the doesn't work: 40W and heavier on anything; 20 W heated to 300-400F because the neighbors complained of the oil smell. What I haven't tried; Marvell's (sp?) Mystery Oil; transmission fluid; cooking oil; whale oil (can't find a descent whale around here anymore).
One other thing, I used the same seal/blast/phosphate technique on the stud of several 65-66 standard steering center links. They use a different seal (C4ZA-3A196-A) which does not seal tightly. What little grease that was in there was dirty, so I placed the stud end on a support to keep the stud's surface horizontal, placed it in the sun to heat it up during the day to expand any air pockets inside, put a couple of drops of 20W oil on where the stud goes into the link, popped the bubbles as they appeared and allowed the link to cool at night which drew in the oil. I did this heat/cooling for a couple of weeks and it seemed to work. I have done 5 this way and have three happy customers (two Shelby owners and me) and two links on the shelf.
You can get that center link seal from Virginia Mustang, they work, their close, but they are not like the originals.
Jim

[68OrangeCrate]

Okay.... All good stuff.  I wondered about the oil because I'm inclined to use CLP for its preservative properties (it's also a Marine thing!).  I'll try out your methods and post how it goes.  Thanks, again...

[J_Speegle]

I don't go through the blasting or phosphate steps so I've never had to seal the ball joint area. Guess if they were really rusty and pitted maybe but normally (for me) they are not

Will wire wheel them to clean off any rust and to even out the surface finish after a good wash

Get the finish I want with the gun bluing and finishing the caps. Then force new grease into the cup by working the grease in one side and letting the old work out the opposite side of the cup.  Much the same practice as we use to use on wheel bearings - glob of wheel bearing grease in the palm of your hand and work it through as you move the ball stud around Once I get a change in color and product (new grease coming through) that is good enough for me.

If you do the grease work first the oil gets in and on the visible  metal surface making a good consistent recoloring about impossible.

I take a couple of two by fours and screw them together and used those to hold the boot in place while I push the tie rod (as straight as I can) into the new boot

[68OrangeCrate]

Noted.... Like the gun bluing idea.  Thanks!

Mike

[67gtasanjose]

let the sealer dry - this may take a couple of weeks

RTV, as everyone probably already knows, stands for Room Temperature  Vulcanization, but many (including myself) never learned why some RTV's take so long to cure or to set up.

The truth I learned at a free Permatex seminar several years ago is that RTV sealants require HUMIDITY to set up. This explains why it sometimes seems to take forever, or why you got a leak when you let it set up what you thought to be long enough. (also a promotion for using their "Right Stuff" product line, which has a thicker unset 'gel')

Arid climates such as Arizona and Las Vegas are not the only "climates" because if we are air conditioned or heated, there is also a risk of low or no humidity. (think about it). This really made sense to me. I began using this RTV in the early 80's in Palm Springs (arid) area. I had a few times I KNEW i didn't error an assembly and yet I had a leak.

If you want ordinary RTV's to set up faster, create HUMIDITY (not water, but moisure in the air) around your project.

I'm always learning, I learned this only because I went for the FREE steak dinner offered to attend the seminar. I really thought I knew enough about sealers, after all I was factory trained by General Motors in the mid-80's, justifying my "know-it-all" mentality

Richard

[67gtasanjose]

i saw a post recently (by Jeff, I believe) on processes used to refinish tie rods. I've looked again for it, but am lost and cannot seem to find it. Anybody know where it is? (photos were also showing some of the results & techniques)

Richard

[jwc66k]

RTV, as everyone probably already knows, stands for Room Temperature  Vulcanization, but many (including myself) never learned why some RTV's take so long to cure or to set up.

The truth I learned at a free Permatex seminar several years ago is that RTV sealants require HUMIDITY to set up. This explains why it sometimes seems to take forever, or why you got a leak when you let it set up what you thought to be long enough. (also a promotion for using their "Right Stuff" product line, which has a thicker unset 'gel')

Arid climates such as Arizona and Las Vegas are not the only "climates" because if we are air conditioned or heated, there is also a risk of low or no humidity. (think about it). This really made sense to me. I began using this RTV in the early 80's in Palm Springs (arid) area. I had a few times I KNEW i didn't error an assembly and yet I had a leak.

If you want ordinary RTV's to set up faster, create HUMIDITY (not water, but moisure in the air) around your project.
Richard

Where I live, it's hot and dry, well almost all the time, but I would err on the side of caution, that is take the extra curing time, as the next step on the tie rod end is to bead blast, and I use 80 to 110 psi in my cabinet. RTV cures from the outside in, leaving a "skim" coat, and I don't want to take any chance of glass beads getting into the mounting stud where there is grease. The humidity cure properties is something to consider, I wonder if steam would accelerate the process.
Jim