Topic: Vinyl Top Trim Question

[Oz390]

As Jeff noted, do not think they are available repro.   They are not just a plain flat strip, have a series of slits in one side, creating a lot of little "tabs" that clip into the drip rail side, and are formed in a compund curved manner to clip into the rail. 

A flat strip might work, I did not take any close up pics of mine before installing to show the section or tabs...

[ruppstang]

I think there is some confusion about the VT retainer strip. There were two versions used, one that laid on the top material and was pop riveted then sealed. There was another version used that after the top material was glued in and sealed at the edge, this stainless steel strip that was toothed on one side was forced down in-between the roof and the rain gutter and no pop rivets were used. This second method is not seen very often but IMHO was a far better looking installation.  I had it on a late build Dearborn 67 Coupe. I have not seen the second method used on a 68. Sorry I have no pictures, lost then in a hard drive crash a few years ago. This special trim is mentioned in the MCA rules.
Marty   

[J_Speegle]

Since its somewhat related thought I would post a picture of the typically found brads used from the factory to hold down the front/leading points of the  vinyl top material to the A pillars. Believe that I've normally seen only one each side but in this example found two. They are visible with the door open on an assembled car most of the time

Hope this helps someone along the way

[67gtasanjose]

I think there is some confusion about the VT retainer strip. There were two versions used, one that laid on the top material and was pop riveted then sealed. There was another version used that after the top material was glued in and sealed at the edge, this stainless steel strip that was toothed on one side was forced down in-between the roof and the rain gutter and no pop rivets were used. This second method is not seen very often but IMHO was a far better looking installation.  I had it on a late build Dearborn 67 Coupe. I have not seen the second method used on a 68. Sorry I have no pictures, lost then in a hard drive crash a few years ago. This special trim is mentioned in the MCA rules.
Marty

This comment closely matches what I have found on my 11/2/66 San Jose built coupe. After reading this whole thread, (and a few other threads on vinyl roofs) I am more curious than confused. The Service bulletin (image on pg 1 of this thread) looks to be drilling the chrome or  stainless "toothed" trim (snap in) to keep it from lifting up (which is why I left mine off for many years, it kept lifting after I changed the viny roof) The service buliten doesn't make mention or seem to indicate this 2nd method with the regular steel strips under the stainless strips,  as found on my early 67 SJ Mustang. My example DID come this way or at very least had work done to it by Ford before the original roof was removed. In 1980, I installed it's first replacement roof and at that time removed BOTH the 1/4" wide riveted and the stainless "toothed" retainers. There was no evidence any work was done to the drip rail edges prior to my drilling out the rivets which DID come in from below on my example. I looked at several (maybe 4 or 5) other examples on 67's or 68's at that time and only found my car having this steel strip riveted in then covered with the stainless "toothed" strip. I did see ones with the stainless only, but not BOTH.  Obviously, I wouldn't have any production dates on those other cars.

I retained the stainless chrome moldings but I looked the other day for the steel ones and didn't find them. (must have thrown them out in a garage clean up one day back).

My question would be if these steel riveted in strips are required (which would require me finding a pair) or should I fill the rivet holes. I remember the strips seemed to be pre-drilled, since some of the holes in the strips were slotted for aligning the rivets (from below)

Looking for a little experienced input, and so far, Marty looks to at least understand the most about this type of installation (though it is seen on a later built car from a different plant).

Richard

[ruppstang]

I can't imagine both kinds on the same car. The SS ones look much nicer, may be some one added them. I have only see 5 or 6 cars with the SS trims. It makes it hard to figure out where, when and why Ford used them. I doubt your car came with SS trims but since you have them and have lost the others I would weld up the holes and use the SS ones. They are interesting to install especially if they are bent.
Marty

[67gtasanjose]

I can't imagine both kinds on the same car. The SS ones look much nicer, may be some one added them. I have only see 5 or 6 cars with the SS trims. It makes it hard to figure out where, when and why Ford used them. I doubt your car came with SS trims but since you have them and have lost the others I would weld up the holes and use the SS ones. They are interesting to install especially if they are bent.
Marty

Thanks Marty, like I had said, I hadn't seen both on one car either.  I actually haven't seen any other car with the riveted in standard steel strips in my quests. In another thread, I mentioned I saw all of my examples of  original vinyl roofs in So.Calif. where vinyl roofs were not a highly sought after option. I saw more Cougars than Mustangs with them so things could be a little obscure in memory about original roofs on these cars. I do know the holes are there and I do know I drilled the rivets out myself . I cannot say that somebody didn't add the SS ones in the first 9 years of the car's life before I bought the car, but I can say somebody else removed the original roof, cut off at the edge of the SS strips before I got the car and remains of the original roof was under both strips (no signs of a replacement roof found at that time)

Upon replacing the vinyl roof, the experienced body man who helped me said to leave both of the strips off-that they were not needed to hold the roof down so that is what I ended up doing (but saved them)  Later, I tried installing just the SS trim, but couldn't really get them to stay in tight at the time so I ended up taking them back out. I may still have the 2nd set of standard steel ones but they haven't surfaced recently so may not also.
The SS ones don't look bent up to badly so I'll work on them some and give them a try.

Thanks again, Richard

[ruppstang]

One more thought about the rivet direction (up or down) Often after a hail storm dealers were installing vinyl roofs right and left.  Unless the roof is verified on a Marti report and you know it has never been replaced I think the factory put them in facing down. That makes the most sense if you were trying push the top material down tight.
Marty 

[67gtasanjose]

...Unless the roof is verified on a Marti report and you know it has never been replaced I think the factory put them in facing down. That makes the most sense if you were trying push the top material down tight.
Marty

Correct assumption on pushing down to tighten the roof material, that would also be my first train of thought. Another perspective would be the strip was clamped, then drilled from the top and riveted from below. The flush rivet heads would be adjacent to the weatherstrip channel and facing down, would not look as "neat" or tidey. The expanded head or the rivet would be covered in sealant.

I'm not really trying to buck this and especially since obviously I cannot account for the first 9 years,... only speaking of what I have found and some on what I remember The vinyl top (Marti Report Confirmed as being white, as well as white remnants found under the drip rail strips at first replacement installation and a few more white remnants recently removed from under the pillar post rivets/nails) was already removed before I got the car, anything could still be true. It WOULD be nice to have somebody who has an original top that is secured with the riveted strip to chime in, but that might be a needle in a haystack. ...also since I took the rivets out some 34 years ago, my aging mind could of course be mistaken. I am simply going by memory. If memory is serving correctly, I remember them going upwards, contrary to what otherwise would make perfectly good sense too.

Richard

[sportyworty]

Hi Richard, here are a few pics of my survivor Coupe. Stainless showing the 1 exposed rivet in front and  1 in the back. If you need anything else let me know

[67gtasanjose]

Thanks Kerry, I believe those rivets are in line with the service bulletin Jeff posted on pg.1 of this thread. Yours being built AFTER the October date implies it was done at factory, not the dealership. My thoughts are, also considering your build date, that the 68's were different to a degree, even in the earlier than the October date mentioned, like so many other things, to that of the 67, or early 67 design. Once again this thread goes into the "til we have more original examples" category, but it does follow the O.P.'s original lines of questioning before I steered it away asking about 67's.

About the only other question I might have on your car is, if you look from UNDER the drip rail, are there any rivets along the edge of the window weatherstrip channel? Chances are, the answer is "NO". But on the odd chance that it DOES, it would be good to see a photograph of those rivets.

Thanks very much again for adding your pictures. It surely will be help to others.

Richard

[sportyworty]

Richard the only rivets visible from the underside of the rail are the 2 heads from the ones I posted above. Obviously they were installed from the underside up not top side down.

[mtinkham]

Bringing up this thread again, as I have a July 67 Metuchen coupe with a factory installed vinyl roof (the original vinyl is long gone, though).  I am interested in knowing about sealing the drip rail.  I was reading in the Osborne sealant manual that coupes got sealer in the drip rails, unless they were going to receive a vinyl top.  Does this mean that coupes with vinyl tops did not receive sealer?  In the interest of minimizing leaks, what is today's best practice for sealing the vinyl roof/drip rail assembly?
I was planning on purchasing self-leveling sealer, however, I do not what to cause problems installing the snap-in retainer strip.

Any advice would be appreciated.
Mark

[mtinkham]

Any advice?

[67gtasanjose]

Since its somewhat related thought I would post a picture of the typically found brads used from the factory to hold down the front/leading points of the  vinyl top material to the A pillars. Believe that I've normally seen only one each side but in this example found two. They are visible with the door open on an assembled car most of the time

Hope this helps someone along the way

Since the spiral nails were brought up in this thread also, I wished to update a source for these nails.

Restoration Specialties & Supply Inc. near Pittsburgh Pa. sells them, part# 2233 if shopping for them

[Anghelrestorations]

Bringing this topic back to life as I am working on a 68 now that will be getting a black vinyl top.  Has anyone come up with any of these retainer strips or photos that show them loose or installed?  From what I am reading the 68 is different from previous years?  If I had a sample I could make a few of them just need a visual to work with.  Assembly manual does not seem to show them either.