Topic: Thoughts on replacing the floor in a 1965 Dearborn K code Convertible.

[Holmes@racingdivision.com]

I have started the process of disassembling the 65 K Convert and have discovered enough problems with the existing floor (patched in the 80's), rust in the rockers, and past accident damage in the truck floor to warrant me considering a complete new floor. Besides the dual exhaust hangers and support panels, what else should i consider when making the switch? Will replacing the floor diminish the cars value or is it better than the rust and patch on the original?

Thanks in advance.

[CharlesTurner]

It depends how extensive the damage is.  Ideally, you could patch and repair as much of the original floor as possible.  On a K convertible, it will make a difference to say you preserved as much as you could.

[Holmes@racingdivision.com]

It depends how extensive the damage is.  Ideally, you could patch and repair as much of the original floor as possible.  On a K convertible, it will make a difference to say you preserved as much as you could.

Ill take that into consideration, Thanks

[Rsanter]

It's all about how well it's done.
Theoretically if you replace the floor or patch the floor and do the ultimate good job nobody will ever know.

I helped a friend save a 69 428cj Mach a few years back. We parted 4 cars out to get the metal to save that car.
When we were done with the welding and metal work there was no more than a pint of bondo over the whole car.
Jim was relentless ant working that metal to get every ripple or defect out that he could. Just the metal work was 2 years of mostly weekends. With all the work he did inside and out I would dare even an expert to tell where the replacement metal is even if they looked on the inside

Bob

[Holmes@racingdivision.com]

It's all about how well it's done.
Theoretically if you replace the floor or patch the floor and do the ultimate good job nobody will ever know.

I helped a friend save a 69 428cj Mach a few years back. We parted 4 cars out to get the metal to save that car.
When we were done with the welding and metal work there was no more than a pint of bondo over the whole car.
Jim was relentless ant working that metal to get every ripple or defect out that he could. Just the metal work was 2 years of mostly weekends. With all the work he did inside and out I would dare even an expert to tell where the replacement metal is even if they looked on the inside

Bob

when recreating a Shelby R Model out of a fastback shell we were able to cut, weld and grind in a way where it could not be seen. The R had no carpet and primer bottoms. I think we'll be able to do the same with this car. I believe we are going to consider saving the original interior floor brace, which should help keep the chassis rigid during the other work.

[drummingrocks]

I helped a friend save a 69 428cj Mach a few years back. We parted 4 cars out to get the metal to save that car.
When we were done with the welding and metal work there was no more than a pint of bondo over the whole car.
Jim was relentless ant working that metal to get every ripple or defect out that he could. Just the metal work was 2 years of mostly weekends. With all the work he did inside and out I would dare even an expert to tell where the replacement metal is even if they looked on the inside

That's amazing.  That's way beyond panel replacement, that's closer to artwork in my opinion.  Do you have any pictures of the work he did?

[Holmes@racingdivision.com]

Here are a few of the process.

[Rsanter]

That's amazing.  That's way beyond panel replacement, that's closer to artwork in my opinion.  Do you have any pictures of the work he did?

I have been doing metal work for a long time, and still don't know all that much compared to some of the guys out there.
If you want to see some amazing metal work go see what the guys at metalmeet.com are working on.
I have learned a lot from that site.
Also I was lucky to learn a lot from some great old timers.

Sorry but don't have pictures from that car as any I had disappeared. The big thing with working the metal is not to just pound out the dent but to try to undo the damage and work it from the direction the bend came from.
When doing section or panel replacement I always try to separate at the factory seam and put it back as close to factory as can be. I have a spot welder that I will use for all areas I can reach and the plug weld the rest.
If butt welding you can grind and finish both sides of the metal and make it look like it was always one piece. Backing the seam with copper helps things as it prevents blow through and it pulls excess heat from the surrounding metal.

Bob

[Brant]

Michael,
I personally would save as much as the original floor as possible.  This is always more labor intensive, so it actually depends on your goal with the restoration. 

Also keep in mind that some of the full one piece floors (and others) are '68 type with the extra indentation like the RH one in the above pictures.

I would just work with a supplier that is willing to inspect their stock and give you details and/or photos of what you are looking for.  Or, perhaps, you can actually go look at the sheet metal that you are buying.