Topic: Aircraft Stripper on Stainless Moldings?

[drummingrocks]

Hi guys, I currently have the front windshield and rear glass out of my '67 coupe in order to do a headliner replacement.  The car has been fairly poorly repainted at one point its past, and there's body color (green) overspray on most of the windshield and rear window stainless.  I've successfully polished and repaired stainless in the past, but I've never really encountered enough overspray to need to address this.  Is it ok to use aircraft stripper on these moldings?  Will it damage them in any way?  Or is there a better way?

I've used soap/scuff pads in the past, but they take forever on thick overspray (and this is thicker than I've ever encountered).  I've used a one-sided razor blade in the past, but you run the risk of gouging or scratching the stainless.  I thought maybe the aircraft stripper would be the easiest method in this case.

[Bob Gaines]

Hi guys, I currently have the front windshield and rear glass out of my '67 coupe in order to do a headliner replacement.  The car has been fairly poorly repainted at one point its past, and there's body color (green) overspray on most of the windshield and rear window stainless.  I've successfully polished and repaired stainless in the past, but I've never really encountered enough overspray to need to address this.  Is it ok to use aircraft stripper on these moldings?  Will it damage them in any way?  Or is there a better way?

I've used soap/scuff pads in the past, but they take forever on thick overspray (and this is thicker than I've ever encountered).  I've used a one-sided razor blade in the past, but you run the risk of gouging or scratching the stainless.  I thought maybe the aircraft stripper would be the easiest method in this case.

You should be fine with the stripper on stainless. It should not have any effect but you may notice the finish may be slightly different under the paint protected portion compared to the finish of a portion exposed to the elements. Polishing should even things out in that case.

[drummingrocks]

Thanks, Bob.  Just what I was hoping to hear. 

[Brian Conway]

     I have used steel wool #0 down to #0000 without harming the stainless steel finish.  Removes the paint or tarnish and even polishes the metal at the same time.  Brian

[mjgraniero]

Have you tried using clay bar and lubricant?  Auto detailers use it to remove overspray from painted surfaces and may work just as well on stainless. Never used it on anything but a painted surface so I can't say if there will be any negative effects. If it's safe for painted surfaces, it should be ok for stainless.

[midlife]

All good techniques.  I used a penny (zinc alloy) edge to scrape the paint off.  The metal alloy is softer than the stainless trim, so the trim doesn't get scratched.  Kind of tedious, but well worth the effort.

[drummingrocks]

Have you tried using clay bar and lubricant?  Auto detailers use it to remove overspray from painted surfaces and may work just as well on stainless. Never used it on anything but a painted surface so I can't say if there will be any negative effects. If it's safe for painted surfaces, it should be ok for stainless.

No, I haven't tried that.  I bet it would work pretty well on single-stage paint, but I'm not sure it would do well with basecoat/clearcoat.  I'm pretty sure bc/cc is what's on this '67 I'm currently working on.

[Bob Gaines]

No, I haven't tried that.  I bet it would work pretty well on single-stage paint, but I'm not sure it would do well with basecoat/clearcoat.  I'm pretty sure bc/cc is what's on this '67 I'm currently working on.

The clay bar is not that aggressive other then a dusting on a piece of trim. It would take forever if it is thick. If the paint is thick enough to be a solid color on the trim you will have a very tough time with the clay bar. Excellent for other things but not for when it is thick IMO. 

[drummingrocks]

The clay bar is not that aggressive other then a dusting on a piece of trim. It would take forever if it is thick. If the paint is thick enough to be a solid color on the trim you will have a very tough time with the clay bar. Excellent for other things but not for when it is thick IMO.

That's a really good way of putting it.   

[J_Speegle]

........ If the paint is thick enough to be a solid color on the trim you will have a very tough time with the clay bar.

That's when you can start clipping the paint off the trim since its often not prepped (sanded) but just laying on the surface

This can produce some light scratches but your going to sand and buff anyway

[drummingrocks]

This can produce some light scratches but your going to sand and buff anyway

Speaking of sanding and buffing stainless, what is the finest grit you use when you polish?  I went up to 1200 once, but still had some micro scratches that showed through after I polished it.  Maybe wet sand it one last time with 1500, 2000, or ultra-fine?

[J_Speegle]

Speaking of sanding and buffing stainless, what is the finest grit you use when you polish?  I went up to 1200 once, but still had some micro scratches that showed through after I polished it.  Maybe wet sand it one last time with 1500, 2000, or ultra-fine?

Believe the last set I did (for the Cougar project) I went to 2000 wet

[66RavenGTCoupeAgain]

Did you polish with a wheel after Jeff?

[J_Speegle]

Did you polish with a wheel after Jeff?

Since I had gone that far as far as grit I finished by hand, Don't have as much experience with a wheel, have a heavy hand and there was only about 6 foot in total length

[tobkob]

If you use a wheel be very careful...one slip and you've had a bad day...

TOB