Topic: Convertible top question

[jperls]

Hi everyone,

I am new to the forum but I have a question. So I have a 1970 convertible...140000 series VIN (made in dearborn). My convertible top is not working and I think the problem is either the switch or circuit breaker (fuseable link?). I say this because when I activate the top switch, nothing happens, but then there is no clicking from the top motor (suggesting power is not getting to the motor it) and there is still pressure within the hydraulic cylinders and lines (I assume if the top motor was bad, the pressure within the cylinders and lines would decrease). One important factor to consider is that this is the original motor.

There was a similar thread that was started on this issue back in 2010. but the author's convertibles were late models (VIN 170000 and 19000 respectively). So the questions are:

1. Do I have a circuit breaker, fusable link, or both?

2. What is the more likely cause of this electrical failure (switch, fusible link, or both). How difficult is it to replace the fusable link and where can I find a new one if necessary?

3. Does anyone know how to replace the top switch (it looks like a very simple operation, but then again, looks can be deceiving)...I do know how to remove the dash pad as well as the radio (though this is not necessary for this operation). Also, when replacing the top switch, can one remove the original lever and put it on a new one (if buying a reproduction)?

4. While not on this topic...does anyone know where to get a neutral safety switch for a C4 transmission (mine still works, but the reverse light contacts have burned out).

Many thanks

[Rsanter]

You need to get a test light or a volt meter/DMM
Remove the dash pad is the easiest way to start

Look at the wires going to the top switch and track to the wire coming from underhood to the switch.
Check for voltage there first.
If you have voltage there then check the switch. This can be done 2 ways. Unplug the switch and check for continuity or check for voltage on the load side of the switch ( side going to the top motor) when the switch is operated.
If you have power going in and comming out of the switch....then...
Remove the back seat and do the same test as above at the plug for the wiring going to the top motor.
If you have power there then it is Likly the motor

Bob

[Rsanter]

Almost all the wiring for the conv top feed and the switch is now available

Bob

[J_Speegle]

Welcome to the site

I am new to the forum but I have a question. So I have a 1970 convertible...140000 series VIN (made in dearborn). My convertible top is not working and I think the problem is either the switch or circuit breaker (fuseable link?). I say this because when I activate the top switch, nothing happens, but then there is no clicking from the top motor (suggesting power is not getting to the motor it) and there is still pressure within the hydraulic cylinders and lines (I assume if the top motor was bad, the pressure within the cylinders and lines would decrease). One important factor to consider is that this is the original motor.

There was a similar thread that was started on this issue back in 2010. but the author's convertibles were late models (VIN 170000 and 19000 respectively). So the questions are:.......

There is a fusible link in the wire loom for the whole car not sure if there is a separate one for the top circuit - don't think do.

Like Bob offered a simple tester to follow the "juice" from where its hot to where its not will likely find what is the issue or at least narrow it down a bunch

Believe the switch can be reached by removing the radio bezel and radio and going from below. IMHO easier than pulling the dash pad


Believe the neutral safety switch is available from any parts store- if you want one that looks closer (why we're here try a service replacement though the wire colors may not be the same as originally


Again - welcome to the site

[jperls]

Welcome to the site

There is a fusible link in the wire loom for the whole car not sure if there is a separate one for the top circuit - don't think do.

Like Bob offered a simple tester to follow the "juice" from where its hot to where its not will likely find what is the issue or at least narrow it down a bunch

Believe the switch can be reached by removing the radio bezel and radio and going from below. IMHO easier than pulling the dash pad


Believe the neutral safety switch is available from any parts store- if you want one that looks closer (why we're here try a service replacement though the wire colors may not be the same as originally


Again - welcome to the site

Thank you very much. Thankfully on convertibles for this year, one does not have to remove the radio bezel to remove the top switch. From my observations when I have worked on the instrument panel (i.e. replacing the lenses as well as bulbs and cleaning up the gauges), the top switch is clipped to the lower metal dash...what I am concerned with in removing the top switch it that it looks like one can unscrew the lever (says "TOP" on it). I want to do this so if I have to replace the switch, then I still have the "original" lever that came with it and the only reproduction part is the actual workings of the switch.

In regards to the neutral safety switch, I think a service replacement (unless it is NOS-R) won't work because most of them are now made in China and have nowhere near the quality the original parts have (my neutral safety switch being 44 years old is a testate to this)

[midlife]

Fusible links are easy to check.  This one is located at the starter solenoid.  Simply feel the wire and if it feels spongy, then it has blown.  Usually the insulation has bubbled if the link is blown.  The wire, if good, will not be a strong as a normal wire, but somewhat more flexible.

[Rsanter]

Top switch know is held on with a small Allen set screw if I remember correct

Bob

[J_Speegle]

Top switch know is held on with a small Allen set screw if I remember correct

Believe Bob is referring to the knob

As far as the neutral safety switch the service replacements which some would call NOS   from the 80-90's should likely do the job. The earlier made likley the better

[jperls]

Believe Bob is referring to the knob

As far as the neutral safety switch the service replacements which some would call NOS   from the 80-90's should likely do the job. The earlier made likley the better

They had C4 transmissions in the 80s and 90s? Was not aware of that. Would think the wiring would be different and I thought FMX transmissions were more common for those years (but I am definitely no expert for these years of mustangs)

[J_Speegle]

They had C4 transmissions in the 80s and 90s? Was not aware of that. Would think the wiring would be different and I thought FMX transmissions were more common for those years (but I am definitely no expert for these years of mustangs)

No not the trans but they did still carry the parts to service those older cars. Car companies often continue to make parts well after the cars are built so that they can sell "factory" parts to repair shops, dealerships and owners. Many parts for the classic mustangs continue to be made by Ford while others have gradually gone away of the years. These (as discuss here on the site) often don't look exactly like the originals but some might. As mentioned in the case of the switch  markings or wire colors may have changed as the part became more generic over the years

Examples of availability could be that up until a couple of years ago you could walk into Ford and purchase a brand new dip stick for a 70 Boss 302

Sometimes depending on your local dealer the part may be in the national system or just still sitting on the shelf at the dealership. Sure plenty of people here have stories of buying parts from their local Ford store

[jperls]

Ok...so I replaced the switch yesterday (the reproduction is extremely well done...couldn't tell the difference from the original (especially the knob...when compared side by side looks exactly the same...it even weighed the same as the original). So after replacing the switch, nothing happened. So now onto replace the fuse at the front by the starter solenoid.

I know this seems strange and some (if not most) are asking why is he not checking with a volt-meter and making his life a lot easier.

Reason 1: I do not like fooling with electricity...shocking experiences to say the least

Reason 2: I am just an amateur  at this stuff, not a professional.

Reason 3: Even if the old circuit breaker is working (20 amp if I am not mistaken), probably better to replace it just as a safety precaution (not even sure how old it is).

This being said, thank you everyone who has responded to this thread...it has really helped.

[Rsanter]

Where do you live? Perhaps another member will help you out
If you were local to me you could stop by

Bob

[67gta289]

+1  I'm sure that there are a number of members here that would help out if that is what you need.

[jperls]

Live in Los Angeles, CA. Attending USC at the moment (free on some weekends). Car is stored at my parents in Los Angeles (Brentwood area).

[Oz390]

If you have not sorted this, test the pump.  Pull the back seat, disconnect the leads, and use jumper cables,  to go direct from battery, or alternate 12V source, to pump and bypass the switch and wiring. 

If that works check continuity of the wiring.  If you don't have a meter or test lamp you (or a friend) can jury rig a test light with a 12V bulb and a couple alligator clips to find out where the break in the circuit is...  its a simple loop thru the switch and not hard to test.