Topic: 65 muffler replacement

[Chris]

I have the transverse muffler system on my June 64 1/2 and I believe it's the source of loud noise from underneath the car when I hit any bumps in the road. Looking at the exhaust pipe while I had the car on the lift, it looks to be resting on top of the metal plate (believe this is the plate for convertibles for added strength) underneath the car. I think the pipe is bouncing against the metal plate when going over bumps as it's resting firmly on the plate.

Is this supposed to be laying on the plate like this? I did not see any evedence of hangers that would support the exhust pipe.

From looking at the muffler in it's entirity, it looks very old and needs to be replaced. What would be the best replecement option to stay concours correct? Can stainless steel exhaust pipe be used?

Thanks.

[suskeenwiske]

No part of the Exhaust System should be in contact with anything other than the Engine and Hangers. If it were, this would increase the likelihood of heat transfer and could potentially wear holes through the Exhaust and/or any part of the Under Carriage it comes into contact with.

I have not owned a convertible so I do not have first hand knowledge or photos related to the correct Type of Hangers and their locations. I have witnessed incorrect installation practices which potentially could be one of the problems. Before getting into that, first determine that all of your Exhaust Components are correct for your application. This would include the Header or Y-Pipe, the Intermediate Pipe, Resonator if any, Muffler, Tail Pipe, Hangers and Clamps. These parts are frequently not bent or manufactured to factory tolerances.

Though less likely, check that the Motor Mounts, Transmission Mount and related are not damaged.

Check for impact damage to the Exhaust that may have bent the pipe, bent Hangers or attaching bolts.

No individual parts of the Exhaust should be welded to another; some flexibility is necessary.

And lastly, relating to installation practices, if the Exhaust was replaced and any hardware tightened before the entire system was in place, this could create an orientation issue that puts the system in a bind and ultimately twist its way into contact with the Under Carriage.

As far as Concourse correct replacement parts...I'm going to leave that to the judges.

Ray

[Murf]

Looks as if your convertible brace is on upside down.  It should look as if it would "scoop snow" when it is correctly positioned.

[Chris]

I put the metal plate (that the exhaust tube is going over) back on the way I found it when I had the transmission rebuilt. Is this what you're referring to?

I'd like a opinion on replaceing the exhaust system with stainlees steel. Without going to the MCA guide, is this material acceptable?

[67gta289]

The exhaust system is worth 8 points.  Stainless Steel has an exception for the driven class.  No lost points on driven, should lose points on trailered.

For trailered, the number of points lost depends on those judging the car at that point in time.  Daring to transition to the realm of opinion, if an SS system replicates the original design (except for the material), I would probably deduct 4-5 points.  If the system was an obvious aftermarket system, I would take off all 8.  But again, there is room for interpretation at the show for those judging your car.  So if I were making the decision for my car, I would be mentally prepared to lose all 8, and be happy if it were less.

If driven, I would deduct if the system was not factory-like.  The number of points would be based on how aftermarket or custom it was.  Glaringly different systems would lose all 8 from me.  A factory-like system with an incorrect clamp here or there would lose a point or two.  Improperly indexed (clocked) clamps would probably be noted with no points deduction.

Workmanship, cleanliness, and condition is another 8 points.  For trailered, if SS I would take points off for the system as discussed in the previous paragraph, but would treat this category independent of material (not double dipping).  If the SS system was "clean", even if an aftermarket Borla, no points lost here.

One man's opinion.

[CharlesTurner]

Looks as if your convertible brace is on upside down.  It should look as if it would "scoop snow" when it is correctly positioned.

Agree with John, the plate is mounted upside down. 

[suskeenwiske]

Found a couple of photos online that may be of help.

[Chris]

Got it, that helped. I'll flip it this weekend when I get it back on the lift.

Thanks!

[Chris]

NPD sells a complete replacement exhaust system, aluminized. I'm looking at the aluminized transverse muffler set up: http://npd.dirxion.com/WebProject.asp?BookCode=mus14flx&archival=1&from=2

Is the muffler they sell with this set up (sold separately) a good one? Any recommendations on the muffler itself if I get the other parts from NPD? I've not done this before for my car. Can this be ordered and installed by one person or is this usually something a shop does with the ordered pieces?

[rocket289k]

NPD sells a complete replacement exhaust system, aluminized. I'm looking at the aluminized transverse muffler set up: http://npd.dirxion.com/WebProject.asp?BookCode=mus14flx&archival=1&from=2

Is the muffler they sell with this set up (sold separately) a good one? Any recommendations on the muffler itself if I get the other parts from NPD? I've not done this before for my car. Can this be ordered and installed by one person or is this usually something a shop does with the ordered pieces?

The "kits" are typically manufactured by either Motive Industries or Precision Exhaust.  The intermediate pipes and mufflers are "ok" in terms of fit and finish.  However, the H-Pipes are just plain old wrong.  I posted about this earlier this year.  http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=6815.msg39607#msg39607

I had a terrible time finding a properly fitting H-Pipe for my "A" code.  I finally bought one from Scott Fuller Reproductions (it just happens that the "A" code H-Pipe and the "J" code H-Piper found on '68 Shelby are virtually identical.

Regards,

Ron

[Chris]

Since I have a single exhaust system with transverse mufler, I would not have an H-pipe, correct?

I'm looking at the factory single exhaust system for 260 V8: http://www.npdlink.com/store/catalog/Mustang_Complete_Systems-2862-1.html

The one I'm considering has a resonator. was a resonator offered from factory?

[J_Speegle]

Since I have a single exhaust system with transverse mufler, I would not have an H-pipe, correct?

Even though the shape is different its still often referred to by many as a "H" pipe   Its the section of pipe (in your case) that joins passenger and drivers side together to one  common point.

[carlite65]

i have always heard that section of pipe referred to as a 'Y' pipe.

[J_Speegle]

i have always heard that section of pipe referred to as a 'Y' pipe.

Heard guys use both terms though the "Y" is much more correct and descriptive

[rocket289k]

Heard guys use both terms though the "Y" is much more correct and descriptive

I agree guys given this is a single exhaust application "Y-Pipe" is a better term for the piece of pipe between the exhaust manifold and into the collector that that leads to the muffler.  The comment still stands that the fit of reproduction Y-Pipes and H-Pipes really leave a LOT to be desired.  The most typical problem is that they hang far too low beneath the car and don't tuck up into the space between the 2 frame rails nicely.  One of my H-Pipes hung 2" below the bottom of the framerail.  I have no idea why the more mass produced versions of these pipes can't be fixed.

Regards,

Ron