Topic: 1967 FB tail-light wiring harness

[RocketScientist]

The tail-light wiring loom in my 67 FB (SJ, 13 Jul 67) had been buthchered by a PO and has lost all its braiding up to the point it enters the trunk. I am wanting to neaten up the wiring and was wondering what was braided. I do have the wiring diagrams but they are a little unclear in places. For example, I have seen braiding on the licence plate light on a SJ convertible but the diagrams (or mine!) don't show it. Any guidence would be appreciated.

Also, has any one replicated the braiding yet. Even if its a reasonable fit, it would be better than what I have.

Thanks,
Brad

[midlife]

Braiding began about 2inches from the connector plugs (near the dash), and was used throughout the harness.  Where the wires break-out for the tail-lights, backup lights, and license plates, there may be about 1/2" or so of bare wire exposed on either side. 

The braiding has to be applied prior to the molding of the various connectors and as the harness is being made.  To replace it means to tear everything apart, start over, and build up the harness with molding the connector plugs being the last piece.  Rhode Island Wiring can do this, but be prepared to fork out some dough.

By the way, the original braiding was cotton and can no longer be used due to various Federal regulations (flammability).

[RocketScientist]

Thanks, it seems doing the right thing is never easy....

[RocketScientist]

I forgot to confirm if the other lines: fuel tank, licence plate, back-up lights etc. remain unbraided.

[J_Speegle]

I forgot to confirm if the other lines: fuel tank, licence plate, back-up lights etc. remain unbraided.

License plate light wire (short lead that plugs into the main loom) has an outer sleeve, don't believe the back ups do. Don't see any on the fuel sender wire but it appears two different colored wires were used 

For the license plate light wire its a dark colored jacket similar to the stuff (if not the exact same) that was used to cover the oil sending unit wire on some applications. I know guys have purchased it by the roll or from others with a roll of the stuff. Repo stuff is often off white in color and gets you a wuick point deduction on the show field. Know guys that have just taken the black felt pen to the repo and it may work but its still doesn't look original

[RocketScientist]

Do you know what the repo 'concours' wiring harnesses are like or how good the classic braid is from Painless. I guess the Judges will know but it'll probably fool 99% of the population.

[J_Speegle]

Do you know what the repo 'concours' wiring harnesses are like or how good the classic braid is from Painless. I guess the Judges will know but it'll probably fool 99% of the population.

From what I've seen around the shop the "Painless" versions of the original wire looms is not even close IMHO. For wire looms look for "Alloy Metal" products the wire looms are not 100% but much better than other products out there - just from what I've seen

[Bob Gaines]

From what I've seen around the shop the "Painless" versions of the original wire looms is not even close IMHO. For wire looms look for "Alloy Metal" products the wire looms are not 100% but much better than other products out there - just from what I've seen

+1 . They painless stuff is good for restomod and function but not if you want it to look similar to factory.

[mjd 65]

License plate light wire (short lead that plugs into the main loom) has an outer sleeve, don't believe the back ups do. Don't see any on the fuel sender wire but it appears two different colored wires were used 

For the license plate light wire its a dark colored jacket similar to the stuff (if not the exact same) that was used to cover the oil sending unit wire on some applications. I know guys have purchased it by the roll or from others with a roll of the stuff. Repo stuff is often off white in color and gets you a wuick point deduction on the show field. Know guys that have just taken the black felt pen to the repo and it may work but its still doesn't look original

NPD sells a short length of the dark braid for the oil sending unit that also works well for the license plate light.  The braid seems a little stiffer than the factory material but from a visual standpoint, it is a good match. 

[Bob Gaines]

I have seen people who very convencingly repair the braid on the taillight harness in the section seen in the trunk to the first tailight . What they do is slide a section of the braided material from the more protected area farther inside the quarter or in the sill plate  to cover the section that can be seen in the trunk.you can't get it past that first tailight junction but many times that section which is the most visible and is tattered can be made more presentable by sliding up of a better section.

[J_Speegle]

I have seen people who very convencingly repair the braid on the taillight harness in the section seen in the trunk to the first tailight . What they do is slide a section of the braided material from the more protected area farther inside the quarter or in the sill plate  to cover the section that can be seen in the trunk.you can't get it past that first tailight junction but many times that section which is the most visible and is tattered can be made more presentable by sliding up of a better section.

To expand on this idea - if you can find a donor car   Big Fords (like T birds often have allot of wiring in the interior of the car that might provide some exterior sheaving for this purpose. I should likely pick up some more for my up coming project while I can.

Thanks for the reminder Bob

[RocketScientist]

Hi Bob & Jeff that is a very inspired idea and one that will work. Sometime in the past all my tail-light wiring was cut and connectors installed (why I don't know) and so I am able to re-sheave the existing wiring relatively easily. Once that's done, I'll remove the connectors, solder the wires and also re-sheave the wires in black plastic to hide the joins. This way I'll be able to save my original harness and have something that looks correct.

Jeff, I'll start looking but finding the correct match Down Under might be a challenge. When you are looking for your own project, if you are able to pick up some extra for me I would appreciate it. I would definitely make it worth your while.

[Bob Gaines]

Hi Bob & Jeff that is a very inspired idea and one that will work. Sometime in the past all my tail-light wiring was cut and connectors installed (why I don't know) and so I am able to re-sheave the existing wiring relatively easily. Once that's done, I'll remove the connectors, solder the wires and also re-sheave the wires in black plastic to hide the joins. This way I'll be able to save my original harness and have something that looks correct.

Jeff, I'll start looking but finding the correct match Down Under might be a challenge. When you are looking for your own project, if you are able to pick up some extra for me I would appreciate it. I would definitely make it worth your while.

It is not out of the ordinary to see black friction tape at ends of the wire runs or at junctions where wires branch out from the loom. That is something that may help disguise a weave braid blending better by being more period looking then "re-sheeve the wires in black plastic."

[J_Speegle]

Haven't found tape at junction points on 67 San Jose built Mustangs though as mentioned at the very  end (passenger side) you sometimes will along with the red label identifying the loom

Remember that the looms were made up by a bunch of sub contractors. This helps one understand why there are slight differences between one and another - like the end of the tapes sections fro examples. Remember we ran across a gas station once in the middle of the desert and the family was putting together the wire looms for T-Bird or Lincoln power seats in one of the garage bays using a wood and metal contraption that kept everything in order and in place during assembly

[RocketScientist]

I had no idea that the wiring looms had i.d. tags. Does anyone have any pictures?

Thanks,
Brad