Topic: Reproducing ink/paint stamping on parts etc.

[petersixtfive]

I have had a some rubber stamps made for the heater and wiper motors also the heater case
Wondering if someone can share there tecnique and what they use for ink or paint to re create the markings
Have tried yellow ink and it stamps out well however it is hardly visable on black
Have tried yellow enamel paint with mixed results
Hope someone might share their experiences
Regards
Peter

[jwc66k]

I bought my white and yellow inks from the business that made my stamps. Unfortunately they are no longer operating as of a couple of months back, but I can give you a generic stock number from the bottle - #1250 AERO INK. Both the white and yellow inks and the solvent have the same stock number. I don't know if this is the supplier's number or the stamp maker's. The bottles state "FOR INDUSTRIAL USE ONLY" which may give you a hint where to look. When Jeff gets around to putting Part Two of my "How To" on blower motors you can see my results. It may be next week as a lot of members of this forum are attending a MCA conference this weekend.
Jim

[priceless]

I have used Testors model paint in the past on alternators, valve covers, "paint OK" on the fenders and underside of hood with exceptional results.

I use a Q-tip and roll the paint onto the letters/numbers of the rubber stamp and has worked out great.

I have also used the testors paint on tie rods, sway bars, spindles, transmission cases, etc,, with a small modelers brush, wherever a factory paint mark/slash needs duplicated.

*This information is my opinion and has worked well for me*   

[jwc66k]

Curiosity got the best of me, so I used my friendly neighborhood search engine (Yahoo) to look for "1250 AERO INK" and there are a lot of sources. It is expensive.
Some hints I got from my stamp maker before they closed:
- practice, then do it again, too much ink will smudge;
- when inking the stamp pad, apply the ink to a small area, just enough to get ink on the stamp, this will allow the pad to be used again because you cannot clean it. I bought several on Amazon, about $3 each;
- clean the stamp after you use it. The solvent I bought from the stamp maker smells like MEK.
- it dries quick, and will smear if you try to remove a bad stamping, so do it right the first time.
Jim

[J_Speegle]

For heater motors I've had success with a spray can and a magazine - spray a page or spot, daub the stamp in the paint and test till the paint as set up just enough to give a good impression. Just like I've done at shows for 20+ years for paint inspector stamps.

As for the heater motor the stamping is a stronger and often neater application than most of the others places and parts - sorry have not needed to one of those as of yet

[petersixtfive]

Thanks to Jim, Priceless and Jeff for their advice.

Jeff, coincidently prior to posting this request, it was a similar version of your method that I used on the heater motor
I sprayed out some yellow paint onto a magazine type advertising literature, first off was trying to stamp it to wet and was getting smudged stamping.

After a few attempts the paint was starting to set up and a method that appeared to work best was to dab the stamp onto the paper with the paint on it a few times, the paint was getting tacky at this point, then stamp the item in question.

I am going to give Jims #1250 aero ink a try, having trouble finding yellow seems to be available in white black blue and red
It appears to be an industrial pigmented ink for stamping non absorbent surfaces such as metal, glass etc.

Thanks again

[priceless]

Just an example, Here's yellow Testors paint used on the "paint ok Adam". I had Bob Perkins (years ago), to send me a stamp on paper and I had it duplicated at our local stamp and die shop. I used the Q-tip and rolled the paint onto the stamp. It turned out exceptionally well.

One is on the inside of hood and the other on the inside fender.

The hood photo is a little blurry.

[J_Speegle]

Thanks to Jim, Priceless and Jeff for their advice.

Jeff, coincidently prior to posting this request, it was a similar version of your method that I used on the heater motor
I sprayed out some yellow paint onto a magazine type advertising literature, first off was trying to stamp it to wet and was getting smudged stamping.

After a few attempts the paint was starting to set up and a method that appeared to work best was to dab the stamp onto the paper with the paint on it a few times, the paint was getting tacky at this point, then stamp the item in question.

Smudging of the ink/paint was not unusual in the original stampings

Often this leads some to reproduce the stamp larger than it originally was   If the original; inspector pressed too hard they squeezed out the ink/paint producing an outline letter/number effect that can also mislead some

[carlite65]

i have often noticed that some reproduced stamps are too perfect.

[stangnet33]

Note: This post and the following two replies were merged with the other older thread above.


Has anyone tried/had any idea's on replicating the yellow date and/or part # stamping on parts like the blower, wiper motor ? I have a '69, but it's also on other years.

[jwc66k]

You can have a stamp made at a stamp shop for under $10. The biggest problem is the font, so if you can scan the existing, or take a picture, cleaning it up on Photoshop can get what you need. OK, Photoshop software is expensive, and it takes some time to get the techniques figured out, but that's what it takes. For the ink, I use #1250 Aero Ink. It's an epoxy based, fast drying liquid so application usually makes a stamp pad a solid mess when you are done (only use as much of the pad as possible, then there may be enough remaining for a second try - buy pads on Amazon).
Jim

[J_Speegle]

+1 With what Jim stated.  Shops will get something maybe close but they do not have the time nor often the talent to reproduce the original stampings.  From my 30 or so years in doing this sort of thing you will find that they will find a "stock" font from their assortment and adjust the size and there you go.  Often reproducing a stamp is a 10-30 hr job depending on how many features it has and the design.

In some cases with date stamps you can find one of those dial a date old looking stamps and have a shop make up one with dates from the 60's  In this case you often have issues with the fonts also (popular/commonly used fonts change over time) but its an option.


For other stamps so will take the reproduction decals that are suppose to replicate the original ink stamps. Unfortunately so many of the current reproductions are so poorly done IMHO and again suffer from font substitution that this should not be consider. In many cases stamp shops will refuse to reproduce stamps or stickers with the FoMoCo, Ford or Autolite scripts.  Just sharing based on allot of years and time spend (my annual orders are well over $1000 annually) doing this sort of thing.  IMHO no real short cut and making them and then marketing them only leads to allot of them being shared and stamped on the wrong vehicles and applications.

[racincast]

Looking for ink stamps for heater motor, "PAINT OK", ignition coil... does anyone can help me getting those?

[J_Speegle]

Looking for ink stamps for heater motor, "PAINT OK", ignition coil... does anyone can help me getting those?

Heater motor date stamp will not be visible once the heater is assembled and for the "Paint OK" there are a couple of different versions and for that particular set of inspections and others that we'll have to look into.

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