Topic: Front end Alignment Specs

[C5ZZ]

Getting ready to bring in the 65 for a front end alignment.
Have read in the past different opinions on what specs to
use to align the front end, some like to deviate from the Ford specs.
I have radial tires and all OEM suspension parts, 6 cyl with power
steering, what settings should I have the guy use?

[CharlesTurner]

The stock setup would be suitable for most everyone except those interested in track events or spirited driving.  If I was you, would go by what is in the Ford shop manual.

[jwc66k]

I strongly recommend that your front suspension be completely rebuilt, tie rod ends, idler arm, ball joints and control arms. You can't align a front end when everything is worn out, and for street driving go with the Ford spec.
Jim

[rocket289k]

+1 to Jim's comments.  I'll add one other.  In my latest restoration of a '65 I had the steering box rebuilt as well.  I can't tell you guys what a world of difference that makes (it took the rebuilt front suspension to an entirely new level).  The only thing I can compare it to is driving an extremely low mileage original.  It seems to a part of a "front end rebuild" that is very often overlooked.

Regards,

Ron

[jwc66k]

I had the steering box rebuilt as well.  Ron

Another truth. I didn't have a noticeable steering box problem when I had my front end aligned, but the rest was worn out (79,000 miles on a 66) to the point where the alignment guy said no way, and showed me what and where. Actually the factory tie rod ends were not the problem, they were just old (more on that later). I plan on getting the steering box rebuilt (someday).
Jim

[C5ZZ]

I strongly recommend that your front suspension be completely rebuilt, tie rod ends, idler arm, ball joints and control arms. You can't align a front end when everything is worn out, and for street driving go with the Ford spec.
Jim

The whole car has been rebuilt/restored including new upper and lower control arms, tie rod ends etc. etc.
It would be a waste of money and time to have it aligned with worn out suspension parts.

[midlife]

In answer to the original question of what specs to use for radial tires, here is what I used for my 66 GT:
Camber: 1/2* negative
 Caster: 2* - 3* positive
 Toe: 1/8" in
 
 Works great on a vintage car with radial tires

The original specs in the FSM are:
Camber: +1/2*
Caster: 0* (V8)
Toe: 1/4 inch.

For radial tires, the more caster you can get, the better off the tracking of the car will be.

[Brian Conway]

     Got some new tires today and getting the front end aligned tomorrow.  Midlife posted the spec's he used and I am asking if anyone has any other numbers/specs
's or have another opinion.  Thanks Brian

[dbm350]

         I used the specs that Midlife used on my 66 when it had the front aligned many years ago. I have put  30-40 thousand miles on the car since then. It drives and handles great with radial tires.

[zray]

The stock setup would be suitable for most everyone except those interested in track events or spirited driving.  If I was you, would go by what is in the Ford shop manual.

my feelings as well. Despite all the hubbub about needing different specs for radial tires, etc. the specifications listed in the Ford shop manual work very well unless you are really pushing it, then use the Shelby published specs.

Z.

[Brian Conway]

     Here is what the fellas at the alignment shop did.  Remember the caster/camber numbers are degrees and no telling what they mean in actual measurements.  Brian

[C5ZZ]

Good price on the alignment, the place I went to charged me double that!

[zray]

  "…………. Remember the caster/camber numbers are degrees and no telling what they mean in actual measurements.  Brian

the actual measurement specifications ARE in degrees.  There's no other way to describe caster and camber that I know of.

Z.