Topic: Passenger Side Rear Quarter Panel

[Bob Gaines]

I know that preserving the most original sheet metal is best if at all possible however some areas of the country are in a rust belt and you have to make a choice of repairing the car or junking it because original spot welds can't always be duplicated and  you will lose points at a show. The downside of sectioning in quarter panels at non factory seams is much more welding which leads to excessive heat and warping of the panel. When you create a seam in a panel especially all across the panel it will almost definitely show up down the road as it shrinks even with the best of preparation. The other problem is you will need to finish both sides of the panel as the seam will show up in the trunk area. If this was my car I would try to locate N.O.S quarter panels and wheelhouses and install complete at the factory seams. I know this will be more costly but you have a better job. If this is not an option I would contact someone that has replaced these panels with aftermarket ones and get their opinion on the best brand. The new aftermarket qtr. panels at least go up to the factory sail panel seam. If original type spot welds are that important there are modern squeeze type resistance spot welders used in collision shops and  could also be an option. Replacing panels at the factory seams are not just my opinion but recommended by almost all car manufacturers for repairing collision related damage. I try not to get too caught up in that only original once crap as it leads to people junking cars are giving up on a project because a factory spot weld is missing or a number on the back of a block is wrong. Good luck on your project and don't give up.

Yes I think that was a poor choice of words too. If you know people that actually junked a car because of missing spot welds or numbers on the back of a block you know some doozies. Typically that kind of contempt for some details is to justify a lack of knowledge in that area . You seem to be knowledgable about bodywork.  I for one am glad to see that we are reaching people on the importance of build details like spot welds ,date codes /casting codes.  It cuts down on the amount of poor(crappy  ) workmanship that some shops can get by with if a enthusiast is properly informed . I am not pointing a finger at you because of the techniques you are sharing indicate you know right from wrong . I can see how it could be a burdon sometimes even for a good shop with customers who have a little bit of knowledge taking up time or unrealistic expectations but it is not a perfect world and we are looking at the big picture. A perfect example -a group of us worked on a education campain to explain that 68 Shelby's all came with hubcaps instead of the commonly used ten spoke aluminum wheel . It took about 4 years but now many are informed and the hubcaps are used predominately on show cars instead of the other ,but now I can't find any good restorable hubcap cores to save my soul because the education caused a demand . Pain in the a@# for me now but in the big picture we are accomplishing our goal. 

[koski19]

After several days of thought and reading the input. I decided to remove the quarter panel in question. I think there would have been more challenge in getting all the pieces to line up correctly, then weld them into place without more damage to work through. I didn't have any way to roll a piece of sheet metal to shape part of the outer wheel well to quarter panel either. I ordered a Dynacorn outer wheel well piece and full quarter panel. I inquired and the feedback was that Dynacorn made the best aftermarket panels. I personally don't have any experience with them. I have attached some before photos.
Someone in the past fixed both quarter panels with hardware cloth and fiberglass. These patches are unsightly and needed to be removed. The driver's side is worse than the passenger side. I'll post the driver's side at a later date. I'm now concentrating on the passenger side. I'll post photos as the work continues.  As always, thanks for all replies.

Jeff

[cobrajetchris]

I think you made a wise choice in your decision, just make sure you pre-fit EVERYTHING before you weld the panel on. I would start off by installing your door shell and getting it lined up with the rocker and qtr. panel as they can't be adjusted. Fit the trunk lid, corner extension and rear valance as well as almost always there is some tweaking that needs to be done especially on a reproduction panel. The wheelhouse can be a little tricky too as that can change the depth of the panel when viewed down the side. It will take some time but use self tapping sheet metal screws & vise grips to get everything in place before you do any welding. It's much easier to correct problems before welding in the panel than after. Good Luck to you!

[CW4macret]

With a little effort and luck you can complete this work and know one will ever know you changed them. Its not that hard to duplicate the factory spot welds. One thing I would have done is reinstall the deck lid and doors before removing the old quarters to help with the fitting process for the new ones.

[koski19]

Your right about the door and trunk lid. I didn't think of that. By the way, what is the size of the gap between the trunk lid, door and quarter panel when I line up the new panel?

Jeff

[CW4macret]

Not sure there is a correct gap. I normally go by the rule of if it looks wrong it is. But keep in mind these Mustang were built with gaps that are unacceptable today. Anyway let’s call no more than 1/4 of a inch but try to keep it around 1/8. The real issue you want to check for is high spots between the deck lid and the quarter and the quarter and the door. I installed the front fender so I could make sure the door had no high spots between front of the door and the fender and the back of the door and quarter as well as the rocker. Then worked the gaps. Same with the deck lid and the old quarter. Once I was happy with the fit of the door and deck lid I cut off (drilled) the old quarter. I first installed the new quarter with sheet metal screws. This allowed me to remove it and reshape it as need for a good fit with both the door and the deck lid. Once you are happy weld in the spot welds you drilled out. You will have to clean them up with a grinder and maybe us a little filler after you blast the car but if done correctly they are real close to a factory spot weld in appearance by the time you get the paint on.

[koski19]

I had the chance to work on the Mustang today and I took the opportunity. I finished up on removing the old sheet metal on the passenger side quarter panel and was able to do a test fit of both the outer wheel house and the quarter panel. It seems to me that some trimming is required on these panels, correct? Is there a procedure in lining up the panels? I'm using vise grips to hold the panels in place for now. I'll be installing the door and the trunk lid to get the gaps correct. Any experiences that you have had and care to share would be appreciated. Thanks

Jeff

[koski19]

This morning I aligned and secured the outer wheel well housing. This took several hours as there were gaps that needed to be
attended to. Using sheet metal screws I temporarily installed the wheel well. I think it looks pretty good and I have one challenge
and that is to repair the two holes where the inner/outer housings meet.

Jeff

[cobrajetchris]

I reviewed some of your photos and have a some questions. The one photo shows the upper deck panel (below the back glass and the taillight panel were it meets the qtr. panel is on top of the qtr. panel and it looks like it should be behind the qtr. panel. I also noted it looks like the spare tire dimple on the rt. inner wheelhouse was pounded back out? This can easily be mistaken as a dent but in fact allows the spare tire to fit in the trunk properly. There should be no gaps between the inner and outer wheelhouse lip as that is what you will weld against. As far as trimming the new parts I would wait until you get the door and deck lid installed and try to align before cutting or welding anything. Don't forget to fit the lower valance panel (back up light panel) as well before welding. Based on your photos you have a lot of fitting up before lighting up the welder.  You will need to remove your outer wheelhouse and drill 5/16 holes in place of the original spot welds to correctly weld the new panel in and the same for the qtr. panel. If you have unwanted holes in a panel there are several tools that are made of copper that provide a base for you to weld up the holes. Eastwood and other auto restoration vendors have these.  Chris

[koski19]

The previous owner I assume pounded out the dimple. I was contemplating trying to repair it but not sure of what method to use. I used sheet metal screws to pull both halves together to weld. Then remove the screws. I had picked up the tools from Eastwood to fix the unwanted holes. I also have a pneumatic punch and flanger tool if required. I agree, there is alot of fitting to do. This weekend I'll install the door hopefully and check its alignment. I know that I'm still a long way from firing up the welder. Thanks for your input and advice.

Jeff