Author Topic: Full Floor Pan Replacement  (Read 4647 times)

Offline koski19

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Full Floor Pan Replacement
« on: August 03, 2013, 05:30:55 PM »
Now that the coup is down to the unibody it's time to install the complete floor pan.
A question comes to mind and here it is:

Should I cut out the old floor leaving material to weld to and trim as needed or drill out the spot welds, then remove the old floor?

The floor is coming out in the next few days and would like some input as what would be the better way.

Jeff

Offline CharlesTurner

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Re: Full Floor Pan Replacement
« Reply #1 on: August 03, 2013, 10:20:56 PM »
My guess would be to cut it out and then grind off remaining metal where there are spot welds, preserving the metal as much as possible that the floor attached to.
Charles Turner - MCA/SAAC Judge
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Offline koski19

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Re: Full Floor Pan Replacement
« Reply #2 on: August 04, 2013, 12:12:35 AM »
That's my thoughts too. Here are pictures from today's work. The seat pans removed. Tomorrow I'll start removing the floor pan.

Jeff

Offline CharlesTurner

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Re: Full Floor Pan Replacement
« Reply #3 on: August 04, 2013, 01:27:19 AM »
Hate to say it, but you probably could have gotten by with just rear floor patch panels.  The fronts look really nice.
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Offline koski19

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Re: Full Floor Pan Replacement
« Reply #4 on: August 04, 2013, 09:57:52 AM »
Did you not see the rusted out areas up front where the firewall meets the front floor pan on both sides? There's a large dent that is under the passenger side seat pan when I removed it. I guess I could have hammered it out. The rear seat pan on the passenger side shows a botched fiberglass repair and the driver's side rear seat pan was cut out at one time and a patch panel installed with just screws. There is also a large gap between the rear pan and rear inside wheel well that's about 1/2 to 3/4". The hump has holes in it and welding slag from where some one tried to weld a bracket underneath and it got too hot and blew holes in the hump. Based on all this, I thought a full pan was in order. Here's the pan I purchased through Scott Drake:

 http://www.drakeautomotivegroup.com/Store/Product/M107-8-FFCP.aspx?wid=141

I do appreciate your comments and insight. Any tips on installing this pan?

Jeff

Offline CharlesTurner

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Re: Full Floor Pan Replacement
« Reply #5 on: August 04, 2013, 11:39:46 AM »
I see some holes in the front floors that could be patched, don't see anything in the rear seat area, maybe some pitting?

Just trying to give some perspective on what you're doing.  It's like replacing an engine because the spark plugs are bad.  No matter how good you are at welding, the original structure will always be superior in fit and rigidity.  That ought to be preserved as much as possible.
Charles Turner - MCA/SAAC Judge
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Offline 70Twister

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Re: Full Floor Pan Replacement
« Reply #6 on: August 04, 2013, 01:21:33 PM »
I'm agree with Charles they are only factory once! I have saved floors that looked worse than yours before and yes its easier to just replace it all. But by keeping as much factory metal as possible makes you feel good when your asked "Is it factory sheet metal?" And you say yes but I had to "REPAIR" some of it! ;) I have cut up a lot of patch panels for just for a few pieces to fix a panel. Looks like a really good car worth the work! :)
70Twister
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Offline koski19

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Re: Full Floor Pan Replacement
« Reply #7 on: August 04, 2013, 04:04:43 PM »
I see some holes in the front floors that could be patched, don't see anything in the rear seat area, maybe some pitting?

Just trying to give some perspective on what you're doing.  It's like replacing an engine because the spark plugs are bad.  No matter how good you are at welding, the original structure will always be superior in fit and rigidity.  That ought to be preserved as much as possible.

Hi Charles,
Always appreciate your input. I'll clean up the floor and take a second look this afternoon. I might detail the areas of concern and post for a recommendation on how to proceed.....

Jeff

Offline tomtri66

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Re: Full Floor Pan Replacement
« Reply #8 on: August 04, 2013, 06:29:02 PM »
+1 on what Charles and 70Twister said.  Save yourself some headaches and just patch.
Tom
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Offline Stangly

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Re: Full Floor Pan Replacement
« Reply #9 on: August 04, 2013, 06:50:06 PM »
+2  here I would agree this looks like a great car to start with.  I think I would see about maybe using some patch panels and replace only what needs to be replaced.  With smaller pieces you can cut and trim the pieces to fit over top of the bad areas.  Leave some extra metal on the edges, tack weld or screw the patch in place over the existing pan.  Then using a pneumatic panel saw cut thru the new and old and you have a perfect patch.  Get some butt welding clamps from Harbor Freight and but weld.   A little filler on the bottom side and you should be good to go. Take caution you don't cut thru any of the support pieces on the bottom.
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Offline koski19

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Re: Full Floor Pan Replacement
« Reply #10 on: August 04, 2013, 10:23:49 PM »
Well everyone, my Sunday afternoon was occupied by cutting out the passenger side floor pan, cutting the new full floor pan and test fitting the passenger side. Monday, I'll cut out the driver's side and test fit the new panel. Looks like I'll need to make a couple of patch panels from the left over new floor pan to weld the fire wall to the passenger/driver side new panels. I left plenty of room for trimming on both panels as required. Now to clean off the primer coating used in shipping, align the panels and use the sheet metal screws to secure. Anything else I need to do before welding? Photos attached.

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Full Floor Pan Replacement
« Reply #11 on: August 05, 2013, 08:45:49 PM »
.............Anything else I need to do before welding? Photos attached.


You've been busy :)

Things to check - I would double check your front frame rails for dents form bottle jacks and the like- better to pound them out now since their open.

Sorry can't be of anymore help - never had to change floors on a car before
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline koski19

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Re: Full Floor Pan Replacement
« Reply #12 on: August 05, 2013, 11:05:57 PM »
Frame rails look good so far. I haven't yet cleaned them up. I haven't yet removed the old floor pan from the driver's side. Was going to start that tonight but the pressure switch on my new air compressor went tits up. I've less than 15 hrs on it. Now to get it replaced under warranty.
I've other things to do the unibody so I'll continue without the air.

Jeff

Offline jmlay

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Re: Full Floor Pan Replacement
« Reply #13 on: August 06, 2013, 10:46:34 AM »
That toe board looks a little rough. I would patch it before welding in the floors.
Mike

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Offline koski19

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Re: Full Floor Pan Replacement
« Reply #14 on: August 06, 2013, 11:35:21 AM »
You're right and I planned on it. Quite a bit of work to do yet before the welding starts.

Jeff