Author Topic: Hints for using Evaporust  (Read 7198 times)

Offline Aussiemach

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Hints for using Evaporust
« on: July 26, 2013, 10:34:19 AM »
After recent discussion I thought this topic might be useful.

This is what I do,

Before placing parts in the Evaporust I wash them all with a 2000 psi water pressure cleaner to lessen the contamination to the Evaporust. If the pressure is going to damage or remove paint markings etc then parts will have a low pressure rinse or not be washed. Use a degreaser if necessary.
Place parts in the Evaporust, all of the part must be fully immersed.
The Evaporust works very well at around 27 degrees Celsius (80 F) To keep it heated while in use I have a fish tank heater mounted in PVC tube so that the glass heater is protected from impact. (Safety Warning, switch of power to heater before handling)
The heat produces a lot of evaporation, this must be recovered by placing a lid on the container.
The ratio of Evaporust and water must be kept close to original as possible for best results.
After 12 hours remove the parts and place in another tub to drain so that most Evaporust can be returned to the bath. The parts are then cleaned with the pressure cleaner. If there is still some rust present then put them back in the bath.
If all rust has been removed then dry them immediately with compressed air.
I then place the parts in an old oven at 80 degrees C ( 176 F ) to remove all moisture.
Parts are left to cool then cleaned with prepsol and coated with whatever is needed.
If flash rust appears the part may need to be treated with deoxidine prior to paint. Or put back in the bath and clean and dry under different weather conditions.
If I'm not using the Evaporust bath for awhile I return it to the original container and put the lid on.
To transfer the Evaporust I use a 12 volt pump running through a filter to keep contamination to a minimum.
Don't return the dirty deposits from the bottom of the bath back to the storage container.
If you don't want to coat or paint the parts straight away, dip the clean parts back in the Evaporust and remove then let drip dry. This will leave a coating to minimize rusting for a week or two.

After Evaporust, hardened steel may have a black carbon coating, this can be wire brushed off easily.

Do not use on tin. Nasty fluorescent green reaction (Thanks to 68 S Code)

Evaporust is tough on original zinc dichromate plating.  Use with caution. (Thanks Caspian65)

Do not use on exhaust manifolds, I did and the effectiveness of the Evaporust was reduced dramatically the next day. This Evaporust remains separated from the main batch and will probably be thrown out.
Perhaps something in the exhaust residue affected the Evaporust.

Any other do's and dont's ?
1969 Mach 1 351w FMX Built in San Jose, February 26 1969

Offline outlawincorporated

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Re: Hints for using Evaporust
« Reply #1 on: July 26, 2013, 11:07:31 AM »
Very useful information  --  so thanks for sharing

regards.

PHILL BERESFORD.
MELBOURNE.
AUSTRALIA.
ITS ONLY EVER ORIGINAL ONCE!!!!!

MCA GOLD CARD JUDGE 1ST GENERATION.  MCA #68589

Offline CharlesTurner

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Re: Hints for using Evaporust
« Reply #2 on: July 26, 2013, 11:08:20 AM »
Nice write-up, it goes along with most of my experiences using the product.  You're a lot better than I am at minimizing contaminants and making it last long.  The only thing I would suggest is to try and use mineral spirits or parts cleaner to get grease/dirt off first instead of pressure washing.  This works well for me in trying to preserve paint marks that might show after being soaked in E-R. 

I've actually gotten to where I use the product as a substitute for blasting pieces to bare metal now.  I have a container of lacquer thinner that I will soak parts/fasteners in, which removes dirt and paint.  I normally only do this on parts I know wouldn't have paint markings.  When the parts are clean, soak in E-R overnight.  Been working on a '65 convertible lately and have not used the blast cabinet at all.

You're right about the cast iron parts, there must be something that happens when they are soaked.  I also find the solution pretty much dead or not as effective after soaking some cast parts.  Leaf springs are a good example, but if I have a nice set of original leaf springs, it's cheaper to buy a 5 gallon bucket than to buy new springs, even if I only get one use out of the bucket.  I have a wooden frame that I lay thick mil plastic down for leaf springs so I can soak them completely.  Only takes 2 days to do a set.
Charles Turner - MCA/SAAC Judge
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Offline Anghelrestorations

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Re: Hints for using Evaporust
« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2013, 02:31:54 PM »
I am buying 10 gallons at a time and use a plastic trash container to soak parts.  I do wash the parts off with water when finished soaking since many of the parts I am working with will get plated.  I typically get about 2 years of use out of Evaporust.  I also think it says somewhere to let the Evaporust "breathe" so I don't close the lid completely when not in use. 
Marcus Anghel
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Offline Stangly

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Re: Hints for using Evaporust
« Reply #4 on: July 30, 2013, 08:20:24 PM »
This is the greatest invention ever works like magic.  I have not been dilegent about wearing gloves while using it and appear to be allergic to it.  My hands fingers break out and bubble much like poison ivy infection.  Anybody else experience this.
69 Sports Roof 302 2V (numbers matching)
Dearborn (June build date) Acapulco Blue
68 Coupe J-Code
San Jose (June build date) Sea Foam Green
2001 V6 Laser Red
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Offline CharlesTurner

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Re: Hints for using Evaporust
« Reply #5 on: July 30, 2013, 09:46:06 PM »
No problems here, had it on my hands lots of times.  Don't like smell it leaves on my skin, so usually wear gloves.
Charles Turner - MCA/SAAC Judge
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Offline Lemondrop

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Re: Hints for using Evaporust
« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2014, 08:41:43 PM »
At KSC we use(d) a citrus based lube for the pin in the Crawler Transporter tracks. It would eat the rust off of the shoes where it dripped and or was sprayed on. Was told it was non-toxic and you could drink it. I wonder of this is the same stuff, for all purposes. I have used the pin lube at work on engines to remove surface rust, and just painted it on for a few days and the rust would go away.
http://www.spacefoundation.org/programs/space-technology-hall-fame/inducted-technologies/advanced-lubricants

Offline CharlesTurner

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Re: Hints for using Evaporust
« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2014, 11:13:45 PM »
From what I understand, Evapo-rust is non-acidic.
Charles Turner - MCA/SAAC Judge
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Offline jwc66k

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Re: Hints for using Evaporust
« Reply #8 on: January 09, 2014, 12:25:07 AM »
I followed a link on a forum a while back (can't remember which) where a Mopar owner used a spray bottle of Evapo-Rust on his frame, letting the drops fall into a tray. It took a while but from the results I saw, this is another method of application. The container says non-acidic and non-alkali. The only thing to remember is to be prepared to cover up what you treated as it will rust quickly (a week or two), but another application will get rid of the rust. In other word, plan out what you are going to do (don't get the concrete then get the forms).
Jim
I promise to be politically correct in all my posts to keep the BBBB from vociferating.

Offline Toploader

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Re: Hints for using Evaporust
« Reply #9 on: January 09, 2014, 03:07:43 PM »
Evapo-rust is slightly acidic - pH range: 5.7 - 6.3. It doesn't work by etching, but is a chelating agent.
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Offline Stangly

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Re: Hints for using Evaporust
« Reply #10 on: February 28, 2014, 10:15:23 PM »
+1 on Marcus's comment, I was reading the specs on the Evaporust website and they state it should breath during storage.  Apparently it will grow bacteria that destroys the solution if sealed up airtight.
69 Sports Roof 302 2V (numbers matching)
Dearborn (June build date) Acapulco Blue
68 Coupe J-Code
San Jose (June build date) Sea Foam Green
2001 V6 Laser Red
2015 GT Deep Impact Blue

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Hints for using Evaporust
« Reply #11 on: March 04, 2020, 04:59:15 PM »
Adding the following here since this thread seems to be the logical place to post the info

Recently (Mar 2020) a couple of members have reported that the product is removing paint marks from the parts during the soaks. Not something we have seen in the past and in other threads. Not sure if they changed the formula but just a heads up

The Thread where this discovery was posted  for reference purposes

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=21979.new#new
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)