Topic: Wittek hose clamps vs. Band-style

[drummingrocks]

I’m working on a few final details on my ’66 fastback, built Dec. 8th, 1965, at Dearborn.  When I got the car, the 289 was out and of course the original radiator hoses were long gone.  Is there a way to determine whether the car would’ve come originally with the removable Wittek-style hose clamps versus the band clamps that stapled to the radiator hoses?

When I first redid the car in 2009, I wasn’t aware that some cars got the stapled-on band clamps, so I reassembled everything with Wittek clamps.  After running the car a decent amount over the next few years, I’ve noticed that almost all of the clamps were leaking.  Am I doing something wrong with these clamps?  I’m tightening them good and tight, and they still leak.  After dealing with so many small details, I hate to go to a generic worm clamp. Is there some secret to these clamps that I’m missing?

Also, if my ’66 came with the stapled-on clamps on the radiator hoses, does this mean it would still have the Wittek clamps on the heater hoses?

[CharlesTurner]

I'm not sure if your car is late enough to have wire clamps, but it is certainly a possibility.

Regarding heater hose and by-pass hose clamps, those would be the tower style, regardless of the type of clamp used on the radiator hoses.

You might try tightening the tower clamps when the engine is warm.

[drummingrocks]

Charles, thanks for the quick reply.  As far as tightening the Wittek clamps, I've tightened them until I'm afraid I'm going to strip them.  I don't mind tightening them a little more, I just wanted to make sure they weren't leak-prone when these cars were new.

[CharlesTurner]

They probably are leak prone since new, have heard of folks having to tighten originals now and then.

[drummingrocks]

Ok, thanks for the help! I'll avoid the stapled clamps then, and keep working with my existing wittek clamps.

[NEFaurora]

I've worked with the Wittek clamps for for over 20 years..  They do work well.. Just keep checking them from time to time..  As Charles suggested, You should tighten then when the car is hot.. Eventually They will seal.

Tony K.

[Bob Gaines]

Charles, thanks for the quick reply.  As far as tightening the Wittek clamps, I've tightened them until I'm afraid I'm going to strip them.  I don't mind tightening them a little more, I just wanted to make sure they weren't leak-prone when these cars were new.

If they still leak I have had to use a little clear silicone on the inside of the rubber hose before tightening up to get it to seal on stubborn leaks. If doing this make sure inside of hose is good and dry and same with rad and or thermostat housing or waterpump make sure you let the silicone tack up (a few minutes before putting hose on and tightening up. You can clean up any silicone that oozes out and once done it is indetectable that you used the silicone .

[jwc66k]

You might consider replacing the water outlet/thermostat housing if it shows corrosion. Making a clamp too tight on an old water outlet may cause it to crack or disintegrate. That happens all to often. Bob Gaines silicone method works but allow the silicone to dry well.
Jim

[Sam Cro]

how about photos of each?   

Sam

[Bob Gaines]

I am very suspicious the metal annealing process was not done correctly on the reproduction tower clamps. That or the original hoses were a denser material.

I've especially had trouble at the heater core and radiator with the tower clamps, slight drip two weeks after last running the car. They were tightened hot/cold, careful the screw did not puncture, etc.

If having problems do the silicone -clean ,let tack up before reinstalling and let cure per instructions. Done  . Repro clamps should be fine . They have been out there for many years . Original hoses if still in use may have hardened up and can benefit from same process. Best of luck.