Topic: Electric Choke

[Chris]

Where is the best place to hook up an electric choke? My Holley tri-power has the provision for the hot air choke tube similar to the stock 2bbl carb I used to have on my 260. Since I have an automatic transmission and the kick down bracket, I don't see enough room to route the extended choke tube around the carb to the rear and then down to the passenger side exhaust manifold, the kick down bracket is in the way...and I have the down draft tube to get by as well. I've only see one other original tri-power with the standard choke tube hooked up (see attached pic) but that setup worked since it was a manual transmission.

I have the Holley electric choke for carburetors that came stock with the heat choke tube. I need to find the right 12v power source to hook it up. What I've read is the best place is the ignition switch. Is there a spot in the fuse panel to connect too? if this is the right power source, what's the best way to tie in?

[jwc66k]

I am an advocate of cutting no wires - so my solution is to make a "Y" adapter with the tops of the Y to have one male and one female 0.187 in dia bullet connector and insert this adapter in the brown wire that goes to the heater motor in the engine compartment as this lead is switched on and off with the ignition, and the base of the Y hooked up to the electric choke by what ever method is required, lug or bullet. Non-destructive adaption.
Jim

[J_Speegle]

I've always used the alternator as the hook up point but been so long since I did the modification I can't tell you which one of the few wires I used. A quick test of power on power should do it.  For my Cougar I used the idle solenoid but your car doesn't have one

[jwc66k]

I've always used the alternator as the hook up point but been so long since I did the modification I can't tell you which one of the few wires I used. A quick test of power on power should do it.  For my Cougar I used the idle solenoid but your car doesn't have one

Not fused, as the blower motor is.
Jim

[midlife]

I've always used the alternator as the hook up point but been so long since I did the modification I can't tell you which one of the few wires I used. A quick test of power on power should do it.  For my Cougar I used the idle solenoid but your car doesn't have one

You're probably thinking of the Stator (STA) line.  That's what Ford used for electric chokes...it's only hot when the engine is running.

[jwc66k]

You're probably thinking of the Stator (STA) line.  That's what Ford used for electric chokes...it's only hot when the engine is running.

I wonder if the "tap" was fused?
Jim

[J_Speegle]

Not fused, as the blower motor is.
Jim

In line fuses or fusable links fill the need.

[jwc66k]

In line fuses or fusable links fill the need.

A fuse is the last item someone would think of when hooking up an electric choke. Ask a fireman - oops, sorry.
Jim

[Chris]

Here's what i ended up doing, took the easy way out. My neighbor is a professional mechanic:). He checked the fuse points under the dash and selected a fuse that only had power when the switch was on (12 volts), this fuse was the heater fuse. He placed the fuse in a metal band that had a connector off of it that a wire could attach to. He put this on the fuse, connected the wire with a crimped connector to the band on the fuse and ran it through the a/c hole in the firewall out to the electric choke. The same type of connector was on the other end of the wire and this attached to the choke (see picture). It works very well, the choke activated right away and the car runs smoothly. Thanks for all the input.

Chris

[midlife]

Here's what i ended up doing, took the easy way out. My neighbor is a professional mechanic:). He checked the fuse points under the dash and selected a fuse that only had power when the switch was on (12 volts), this fuse was the heater fuse. He placed the fuse in a metal band that had a connector off of it that a wire could attach to. He put this on the fuse, connected the wire with a crimped connector to the band on the fuse and ran it through the a/c hole in the firewall out to the electric choke. The same type of connector was on the other end of the wire and this attached to the choke (see picture). It works very well, the choke activated right away and the car runs smoothly. Thanks for all the input.

Chris

I'm sorry to say that that fuse tap is also hot when the key is in ACC.  For 65/66, there is no wire that one can tap into that is only hot when the key is in the RUN position other than the wire to the coil.

[Chris]

A volt meter was used to check the fuse with the key on and then off. Voltage was present only when the key was on. My fuse box is a 64 1/2 version, not sure if it's different than 65/66. However it is, I've got 12v going to the choke only when the switch is on.

[jwc66k]

I'm sorry to say that that fuse tap is also hot when the key is in ACC.  For 65/66, there is no wire that one can tap into that is only hot when the key is in the RUN position other than the wire to the coil.

Well except for the radio, back-up lights, AT shift indicator and heater you may be right.
Jim

[midlife]

Well except for the radio, back-up lights, AT shift indicator and heater you may be right.
Jim

Jim:
These lines are fused to the ACC line going to the fuse box.  Turn your key to ACC and prove it to yourself.

A volt meter was used to check the fuse with the key on and then off. Voltage was present only when the key was on. My fuse box is a 64 1/2 version, not sure if it's different than 65/66. However it is, I've got 12v going to the choke only when the switch is on.

The same is true for 64.5.  Did you check for voltage with the key in RUN and ACC positions?

[jwc66k]

Yup, power comes on with the switch in accessory. I can't remember the last time I used the accessory mode for anything other than checking out a circuit. Maybe 40 years ago it was used for to listen to the radio but not today.
It seems that punching a hole in the firewall to run a wire is in style. Another "mod" that can be hazardous. Every wire Ford ran thru sheet metal was protected from fraying by a grommet (rubber or plastic), or included in a connector. Even using an existing hole (heater hose) with metal on one side is not a good idea.
Jim

[Chris]

Yes, power is on when turned to ACC or Run, but no power when the key is in Off. I ran the wire through the rubber grommet used to protect the A/C hose, so there is no exposure to metal and I did not have to modify the firewall. I'm already not liking going away from original with this setup, just don't have the time right now to work out the tube bending to run the correct choke. Everything I've done with the electric choke is easily undone.