Topic: 64 1/2 heater core

[Chris]

I"m trying to figure out the root cause of having no heat in my 64 1/2. The engine has been rebuilt and all is working well in that area, so I'm suspecting a blocked heater core. Has anyone else had this issue?

For the 6 1/2, I believe the heater core is a unique size, is that correct?

Thanks for any advice, I'm clueless about the heating system. Thinking I'm going to have to pull the heater box to get to the issue, would like some advice on any lessons learned before I go this route and any info on the heater core size for 64 1/2 if I have to replace it.

Chris

[must69]

Chris, there is really no big challenge specific to the 64-1/2 heater.  Have you tried to flush the core through the heater hoses?  That is the only way I would know how to possibly get it to work, but realizing the age, if it is original, nearly 50 years is a long time to have crud sit in there.  I have my heater case sitting on the bench as I want to install a new wire harness for the blower motor.  I have already restored the case and all the foam on the vent doors.  If you decide to replace the core, do yourself a huge favor and replace all the foam on the doors (available in a kit) and restore the entire heater case.  You may also need to replace the plenum chamber at the base of the heater box with a fiberglass one if your cardboard one is beat up.  It's also a good time to do a other maintenance under the dash or by glove box you have been putting off.  Great time to get the correct heater hoses too! Phil

[Chris]

Phil,

Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to pull it all out and see what's going on. I did see the kits available for replacing all the seals, so I'll definitely do that and the heater hoses while I'm at it. I just thought there was a unique size for the 64 1/2 heater core, not the standard 65 production size. I think the difference is in the thickness of the core, can't find the reference I used to have for this. I wanted this info to look for an NOS core in case mine needed to be replaced.

Thanks,
Chris

[must69]

Chris, I am pretty sure you are correct it is a different size.  I went with an aftermarket core.  I'm not really a guy that loves working under the dash, so I don't want to take a chance on a NOS core that is 50 years old.  Once it is in there nobody is ever going to know except you.  On my '69 I had to reinforce the case as I found cracks where it bolted to the firewall, but I attributed that to the rough life of drag racing that the 64.5 never saw.  Phil

[Lemondrop]

I bought a core for a 1964 Ford Falcon from the local Advance Auto Parts for my 64.5. Fits like a glove in the hole. There is no way to see the core to verify if it is a Ford piece or if it is aftermarket without pulling the box out from under the dash and taking it apart. Perhaps searching for a Falcon core would open up the NOS market slightly for you if that is the route you choose.

Edit to add a pic of a 64.5 and 65 core side by side.

[CharlesTurner]

Does the one on the left have a Ford part number stamped in it and a date code?  Looks like the one on the right does.

[Lemondrop]

Does the one on the left have a Ford part number stamped in it and a date code?  Looks like the one on the right does.

Here is the other image, I am pretty sure I scrapped the core a year or so ago. When I dig back into my storage shed I will see if it is alive but pretty sure it is gone. I can't tell from the pics if there is any numbers, my car is June 8th 1964.

[66RavenGTCoupeAgain]

Heres an original core that was found in my wife's car. Seems to be just over a year later than our Sept 64 build. Any idea what the AI means?

[CharlesTurner]

A1 is the version/revision, from an engineering perspective.  Most parts would start with a -A for the first version.  The 1 would mean some other type of change.  Have seen engineering numbers, like radiators where one plant was A1 and another A2.  Could have multiple meanings.

Additional changes would have the subsequent version go to -B, -C, etc....

[67gta289]

+1 with a two additional comments

1. Some parts will have different versions to account for different colors (steering wheels, for example)

2. At some places I have worked, and worked with, as an engineer, the decision to use "A1" instead of "B" to denote a revision can be based on cost, driven from requirements.  For example, going from A to A1 will take a relatively low level of additional testing and signatures, whereas for a full letter revision we might go back to square 1 for testing, which drives up cost.

[jwc66k]

Most parts would start with a -A for the first version. 

The engineering part numbers of some Ford design groups had no dash number as the original or first released item. That "quirk" is seen a lot in body parts. They used a part number technique that numbers ending with an even digit were for RH parts and an odd digit for LH parts. The electrical design group did use "-A" as the first item. It seems that service part numbers use a "dash" system for Ford designed parts. (The "exception" seems to be the "rule".)

Does the one on the left have a Ford part number stamped in it and a date code?  Looks like the one on the right does.

I downloaded the picture, turned it up side down and expanded it just to see. It's a partial part number "C5DB", the rest is obscured by time.
Jim

[jwc66k]

- the decision to use "A1" instead of "B" to denote a revision can be based on cost, driven from requirements. 

It "could" also be used to identify a different vendor for the same, identical part.
Jim