Topic: Proper Rear Leaf Spring Colour

[app01]

Here are some pictures of my 70 B2 leaf springs that I just restored  thsi past weekend with Jeffs approach of Eastwood Phosphate, then a dusting of Charcoal Metallic, followed by matte clear. I also hit it with a scotchbright in the end to reduce the shine a bit more. I drive this car (actually all of my cars) lots so opted to go with painting the springs. I did the same a few years ago on my 70 Mach 1, and as mentioned the only areas that "show wear"  are on the  edges where the springs rub together. Touch-up has been pretty easy with a quick hit of phosphate paint and then clear after masking the area off while on the car.

I think they are close to a phosphated color, but not perfect. Thoughts? (I would put this into Concours driven)

Also included is a pic of the original stripes for a reference. The Brown stripes can be seen between the blue tape areas if you look carefully between  .5" to 1.5" and 2" to 3".

[jwc66k]

Looks good, almost too good. The ID stripes were not put that neatly. Keep in mind that the "painter" was reading a shipping manifest, selecting the correct paint and "painting". The total time would be less than a minute resulting in a jagged edge of the stripes, slop over at the top and bottom of the stroke and uneven spacing.
Jim
(Think - hung over, maybe stoned, worried about what the favorite sports team will do, and watching the clock.)

[jwc66k]

Probably a discussion best suited for the MCA web site.

Yeah, they would probably call in Jeff Speegle as a consultant.
Jim

[J_Speegle]

Here are some pictures of my 70 B2 leaf springs that I just restored  thsi past weekend with Jeffs approach of Eastwood Phosphate, then a dusting of Charcoal Metallic, followed by matte clear. I also hit it with a scotchbright in the end to reduce the shine a bit more.................

Might have gotten the clear on too smoothly - purpose of the dry coats since this can produce an almost texture like there is dust on the surface. Glad you figured out something that worked for you.

How did you finish the clamps?  Wire brush?

I think they are close to a phosphated color, but not perfect. Thoughts? (I would put this into Concours driven)

Looks good - judges will likely (unless something catches their eye) 15-30 seconds asking themselves if it looks right? anything odd? and then move on.

I can see the waves in the stripes - think your find there.

[app01]

How did you finish the clamps?  Wire brush?

Yes I wire brushed them.  First with a course brush to get them somewhat clean, then soaked them in evaporust for a few days, then a fine brush and then cleared.

How do you typically finish the clamps?

Thanks for the feedback.

[J_Speegle]

Yes I wire brushed them.  First with a course brush to get them somewhat clean, then soaked them in evaporust for a few days, then a fine brush and then cleared.

How do you typically finish the clamps?

Use to wire brush everything but found that it left a finish that was too bright and didn't look like new metal. IF you go to any hardware store and look at the bare steel bulk metal (1 or 2" wide strap or bar) you get an idea of the finish you looking for. Now I often wire brush but them come back with the liquid gun bluing repair fluid (normally applied with steel wool) then work the surface to brighten and make the finish consistent then oil or dry clear if you choose.


Have found that you can oil over paint with no issues other than making it a bit more difficult to touch up if needed later


Need to do an article for the site showing the process I guess. Pictures with words work so much better

Hope this helps

[CharlesTurner]

For the leaf spring clamps, if you have a good set, the best way to re-finish would be to blast them and then run them through a vibratory tumbler for 15-30 minutes.  Angle cut ceramic does a nice job for steel.

Otherwise, new spring clamps can be bought and installed.  Jim Cowles has some with the round holes from time to time.

[CharlesTurner]

As a point of reference, here is a pair I restored, done without paint:

[app01]

Thanks for that picture and info.

[rusty nuts]

Charles I have noticed the holes in the clamps of your restored leaf springs are round which the originals were, but all of the repo's I can find are have got square holes like app01's. Do you have any ideas where the clamps with round holes are available ?

[nham3407]

I also noticed that about the clamps.  I have an original set of springs that I disassembled to get the round hole clamps off of them, but the metal on the bend over tabs is so thin, I do not think they will hold up to rebending to install them.  I have one spring with the square hole clamps amd hope to get one spring worth of round hole clamps and be on the look out for more round ones.  I have thought about makeing my own as they do not look to complicated to reproduce.  I have several originals with broken tabs that I can measure.

[J_Speegle]

Believe Jim Cowles was making the clamps with the round holes

http://s247533021.onlinehome.us/catalog/

He often makes small runs of parts that are not listed on the website

From a post on the SAAC site

"Just made a small run of the round hole style leaf spring clamps. These were made to original specs and have been pre-bent for installation  just like the originals with rubber pad.  We  cut them bent them,  glass beaded then tumbled for that bare metal OEM type finish.  $56  Postpaid if prepaid by check or MO  with Priority mail shipping!  CC and paypal payments $58  set postpaid!  Shelby Parts and Restoration  2215 Oconnor Rd  Green Bay, WI 54313   920 434 3645"

Hope this helps

[Skyway65]

Got my round hole clamps from Jim 2 years ago-turned out real nice. He even sent me extras when I messed up a couple of them...

[CharlesTurner]

Yes, got the round hole clamps from Jim.  Glad someone makes them!

[app01]

Just to confirm, my square hole clamps are correct for a 70 Dearborn, B2, correct?  (I thought mine were original, and the unrestored pics show square holes)