Topic: Proper Rear Leaf Spring Colour

[1Hotboss]

I am getting my leaf springs from Eaton, they are not going to be painted that ugly black...how should I restore them to look correct

thanks

[J_Speegle]

What your looking for IMHO is a dark heat treated bare steel look with a protectant oil finish. The color would vary slightly depending how new(clean) or old (dirty) the quenching oil was that the springs were placed into after forming.

Clamps would be a much brighter new steel look that will show the contrast between the leaves and clamps

Today (depending on usage and ability)  most strip and clean the springs (after disassembly) without adding texture to the metal. Then treat with a couple of chemicals to get the dark color then cover/soak in a protectant oil such as Corrison X or BioShield.

An alternative is using rattle cans to get the same look but unlike the unpainted surface touching up and repairing of these surfaces can be allot more difficult IMHO 

[Bob Gaines]

What your looking for IMHO is a dark heat treated bare steel look with a protectant oil finish. The color would vary slightly depending how new(clean) or old (dirty) the quenching oil was that the springs were placed into after forming.

Clamps would be a much brighter new steel look that will show the contrast between the leaves and clamps

Today (depending on usage and ability)  most strip and clean the springs (after disassembly) without adding texture to the metal. Then treat with a couple of chemicals to get the dark color then cover/soak in a protectant oil such as Corrison X or BioShield.

An alternative is using rattle cans to get the same look but unlike the unpainted surface touching up and repairing of these surfaces can be allot more difficult IMHO

+1 .

[priceless]

If your Mustang isn't going to be a concours trailered or thoroughbred and you don't want to go through all the trouble of chemicals and such, and you like driving your Mustang like I do, you can use Eastwoods Detail Gray paint that comes in an aerosol 13 oz can, item #10036Z. This paint will give you a natural looking finish.

 Also, check out all the other paints and restoration tools/equipment Eastwood has to offer.

I used Eastwood paints and products over a decade ago on my Mustangs with no troubles at all, and I drive mine and once in a blue moon get stuck in rain, but don't have to worry about surface rust since the parts have been painted under the hood and the undercarriage. But, I do make an effort to wipe away any moisture when I get home or back to the show field.

By the way, I show my Mustang in concours "Driven" and I'm 2 points away from applying for my grill medallion and placing our Mustang in the conservator class.....Hope this helps in your effort.

[J_Speegle]

As mentioned rattle cans can reproduce the look though I do see rust in the wear areas even in a dry region of the country.


What has worked best for me is East woods Phosphate followed by a thin dry complete coat of interior Charcoal metallic.

Phosphate is too mono tone for me and the interior color which is mostly clear adds a little metal flake  to the final look. Then a coat of oil or semi-gloss clear shot dry adds the look of cosmoline a protection coated added to allot of original parts


As mentioned when you get any rust or wear spots it allot more effort to redo and shield other parts from the pain when needed. Of course if your planning on driving the car allot that's not really the focus on this site and other options might be a better fit
 

[Bob Gaines]

As mentioned rattle cans can reproduce the look though I do see rust in the wear areas even in a dry region of the country.


What has worked best for me is East woods Phosphate followed by a thin dry complete coat of interior Charcoal metallic.

Phosphate is too mono tone for me and the interior color which is mostly clear adds a little metal flake  to the final look. Then a coat of oil or semi-gloss clear shot dry adds the look of cosmoline a protection coated added to allot of original parts


As mentioned when you get any rust or wear spots it allot more effort to redo and shield other parts from the pain when needed. Of course if your planning on driving the car allot that's not really the focus on this site and other options might be a better fit

+1 . FYI Detail grey is too light and not meant to be used for a authentic leaf spring metal look.   

[priceless]

I failed to mention, the Eastwoods Phosphate paint(item#10281Z), I've used on several items where phosphate was the look I was wanting to replicate. It sprays on well and gives you the look and durability you might be wanting to achieve for "driving" purposes.

But, If you plan on a concours trailered(not to be confused with concours "driven") restoration or maybe a thoroughbred restoration, or if you plan on your Mustang sitting allot in a garage, This will be the web site for you.

But, as mentioned, if you plan on driving the car allot and enjoying you Mustang, thats not the focus on this web site. Maybe seek some information from another sight that the people there would be more helpful with information on "driving" your classic.....Hope this helps.

Have a safe and Happy New Year

[Toploader]

Sorry for this novice question, but I am flummoxed... How can it be concours correct to paint a surface that wasn't painted at the factory?

[priceless]

First, I want to stress in my posts, I have mentioned several times the word "DRIVEN"If the Mustang is going to be shown in MCA concours "Driven", certains areas that were indeed from the factory with a natural or phosphate appearance, or whatever shade it may have been, you are allowed to use paints on those areas that closely duplicate that finish/look that it came with from the factory.

But no paints in concours trailered or thoroughbred.

MCA parts finish schedule reads as follows: "Concours driven Mustangs may use paints that reasonably match the parts finishes as defined in the table".

Also in the MCA judging rules for concours trailered/driven, In certain sections it will say," Driven Exception".....Hope this answers your question.

[Toploader]

Hope this answers your question.

It certainly does, thanks.

What partly confused me was that some of the other post weren't so specific about which classes the various approaches were supposed to adhere to. Perhaps it was understood.

[J_Speegle]

It certainly does, thanks.

What partly confused me was that some of the other post weren't so specific about which classes the various approaches were supposed to adhere to. Perhaps it was understood.

One of the challenges is that currently there is not a difference (paint or no paint) in the Concours Classes at MCA  though their may be in future. In addition to that many here consider only the best possible opinions (in their opinions of course and try to share those, I know that my opinion of using paint has really changed since maybe three short years ago

[priceless]

One of the challenges is that currently there is not a difference (paint or no paint) in the Concours Classes at MCA.........

I'm sorry Jeff, but I do have to disagree with you here. There are not no differences in the rules in concours classes, BUT, there are EXCEPTIONS between "trailered and driven" in the concours classes in the judging rules, and also when it comes to when paints can be used to match parts finishes in the Concours "DRIVEN" class. The key word in this sentence is,"Exceptions".

Attached is an MCA document from the MCA website. Please read the bold print at the bottom of the document. This is what I'm referring to.

[J_Speegle]

I'm sorry Jeff, but I do have to disagree with you here. There are not no differences in the rules in concours classes, BUT, there are EXCEPTIONS between "trailered and driven" in the concours classes in the judging rules,.......................

Attached is an MCA document from the MCA website. Please read the bold print at the bottom of the document. This is what I'm referring to.

No problem the important thing IMHO is what is correct for our members.

 Didn't notice the note on that page (though it has been there for a number years) - especially since its not included or referenced in the judging sheets.

[CharlesTurner]

I've been out of the MCA loop for a couple years, but I don't think there was ever a decision made to require concours-trailered to have all correct finishes (without using paints as a faux finish).  Not sure when that snippet was put in the parts finish doc, but it technically does not apply.

If I'm mistaken about there being no painted finishes allowed in concours-trailered, I'm sure someone will correct.

[ruppstang]

Probably a discussion best suited for the MCA web site.