Topic: Door Window Run Channels

[drummingrocks]

Back when I restored my '66 fastback in 2009, I replaced the original door glass window guide felt with a reproduction kit.  This is the felt that lines the metal channels that install down in the doors and guide the door glass when it's rolled up or down.

I've never been happy with the way the kit I bought fit. Though I thought I bought the best product available, I've always thought it was way too thick and thus makes rolling the window up and down a real chore.

I believe the name for the original fabric is "moleskin" or "mohair."  I've tried to find a better product that is closer to what came on the car back in 1966. 

I dug around on NPD's website, and came up with two products:
1. http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/product-141849-0.html?shop_by_year=1966
2. http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/run_door_glass_rear-103775-0.html

Which of these is the best option?  Truth be told, I think number 2 is what I need.  I'm not even 100% sure what number 1 is intended for.

[jwc66k]

The first item is to stick the glass to the frame, eg, the vent window to its frame etc.
Jim

[CharlesTurner]

The first item is to stick the glass to the frame, eg, the vent window to its frame etc.
Jim

+1  This is more commonly called glass setting tape.  The size to do the wing window frame is thinner than the tape to do with door glass.  Qtr glass on a coupe/convertible did not use glass setting tape, it was a rubber gasket.

The 2nd item link looks like what I have seen originally and used for restorations. 

[drummingrocks]

I purchased the correct "moleskin" material from NPD.  The problem I've run into now is that the new material isn't nearly as wide as what I'm replacing.  I don't know if this matters or not.  Originally, the material was wide enough to fill the channel and wrap up over the sides; you can tell from the remnants of the factory glue. 

The material I bought from NPD is barely wide enough to fill the channel, and it doesn't even go all the way to the top of the channel (please see attached pictures).  I had originally tried the replacement self-adhesive "fuzzy" material that NPD also sells.  It's plenty wide enough, but seems way too thick and causes the window to bind in the tracks. 

When you place the correct moleskin next to the fuzzy material, the difference in width is obvious.  If I try to install the moleskin, should I just center it in the channel, as I've done in the pictures, and hope for the best? Will the window travel up and down correctly with part of the metal channel being exposed like it is in the pictures? I assume Ford had the channel wrapped the way they did for a reason, and there's just not enough material here to install the material like it was done at the factory.

[rockhouse66]

I was going to post something about this at the beginning, but I thought surely the NPD material width has been "fixed" by now.  Apparently not.  I had the same issue.  I used 2X the material, and ran the pieces side by side to get 100% coverage like the original.  It was a PIA to do, but looked pretty good when I got done and works like the original.

[drummingrocks]

I spoke to a sales rep at NPD Florida, and they're going to send me a second length of moleskin. He said they were aware of the issue, but that for now, that's the way the material comes cut from the manufacturer.  It's good to know they are aware of the issue.

[abarli65]

Just ran into the same issue... they are nowhere near as wide as the original.   I ordered this stuff awhile ago, so I wonder if they have 'corrected' the problem.  I ordered the sticky backed stuff just in case.   I will call NPD tomorrow.

[tvor]

I found the sticky back to hold well inside the channel, but because it wasn't wide enough, the sticky back didn't hold very well after it folded over the edge of the channel.  What I ended up doing was using the yellow weatherstrip adhesive on the edges and then clamping them overnight.  To help with the clamping, I cut some narrow wood strips to follow the contour of the channel and to spread out the clamping force.  I also used a dowel (OK, it's a sharpie pen) to clamp to the contour in the top part.  See pics. 

Hope this helps.
Kelley