Topic: Perches

[Maksim27]

Other evidence is the yellow paint on one of the rubber side...Paint is barely noticeable.  Charles Turner is telling me that not all perches had the M-S markings stamped on them.  Did the vendor start selling the aftermarket of the early Perch in the late 60s.

[Maksim27]

Yes I can tell that your bushing is aftermarket.  The hex bolts appear to be almost correct dark shade..Probably should be darker like phosphate.  But if your perches are still early then you would need to put Cadmium bolts.  In a rare occasion phosphate could have been used depending on the month of transference. The redesign of the bushing in 1967 would use phosphate/manganese bolts.  My bolts will need to be Cadmium plated but I still don't know how to put perma-blue on the bushing.  Does the bushing need to be taken out or blue it the way it is installed.

Being an early 67 Mustang you have 2 welds holding the bushing for extra protection. 

My early bushing has Factory markings even through the ends have cracking as is expected.  Also the rubber ends had black paint and that deteriorated the rubber more.  I did find some remnants of yellow paint on the rubber. 

[Maksim27]

Guys I was wondering which is the correct shade in which the Perch should be.

I'm just using simple tools and don't have any blasters to make a 100% correct finish.

[J_Speegle]

Guys I was wondering which is the correct shade in which the Perch should be.

I'm just using simple tools and don't have any blasters to make a 100% correct finish.

Don't need a blaster to do the job just makes part of the process, for some, quicker and easier. Blaster will not IMHO produce a correct or final finish your looking for. The look pretty nice to start with though the surface still see use and age. Have a couple of pictures from the underside since that will be the surface most visible once installed?

[Maksim27]

These do have pitting where the holes are.  I have another perch that has no pitting and has the M-S stamp.   These 2 perches don't have the M-S stamp.  I'll also need to put perma-blue on the bushing shaft... Also remove the serated bolts and have them Cadmium plated. 

[Maksim27]

Here's some progress on the underside with perma-blue.  Definitely ain't that easy to perma-blue while the bushing is installed.  What do you guys think should it be lighter or that's good enough.

[Maksim27]

Just finished my perches and RPM'd them...  I know they aren't 100% concours but I tried my best with the minimum restoration tools that I have.

Jan 66 C4 200 San Jose

[CharlesTurner]

Just finished my perches and RPM'd them...  I know they aren't 100% concours but I tried my best with the minimum restoration tools that I have.

Jan 66 C4 200 San Jose

Look fine to me, the shafts might be a little too dark, but close enough.  Try some automatic trans fluid on the ends of the bushings, sometimes it will help swell up the rubber enough to close up the cracks.  Wintergreen/alcohol mix also can do the same, but have to be very careful with it as it might swell it up too much.

[Maksim27]

I was first thinking of slicing off the cracked rubber ends and have a smooth look like I seen other perches including yours on this thread.  Yeah I'll try some Type-F trans fluid on the cracked rubber ends.

I also tried the Mothers compound cream that you told me to use and in fact it did remove the cadmium bluing from the bolts... The bolts are now shiny silver look as in the pictures.  Does the cadmium bolts need to be shiny or the matte look is more correct?

[CharlesTurner]

Cadmium is usually a soft silver appearance, not shiny like zinc.