Topic: What's the proper way to install door weatherstrips?

[C5ZZ]

Tried the search function without luck,
Have a set of repro door weatherstrips along with a trunk lid weatherstrip to install
on my 65, have read of people having trouble with them staying glued onto the door.
Some say that first you should wipe down both surfaces with laquer thinner
and use 3M yellow w/s adhesive, is this the correct successful way to do it?
Any other tips or better way to do it would be appreciated!

[J_Speegle]

I use a brushed on adhesive (yellow in color at least to start) Wipe in on the door and the weather strip then stick them together. Stuff is a loot stickier that the 3M and looks IMHO more original than the tube stuff.

Problem is you have to buy in in small amounts if you don't seal the can well the stuff turns to a nasty brown quickly. If you leave the brush that is attached to the lid in the stuff it tends to rust and turn the stuff also. So when I receive the can I split it into a number of small glass jars (baby food does nicely) so that if one turns I don't loose it all and it reduces the rusting possibility

Remember on original applications you should see the glue at least/typically at the corners and turns where the worker normally had trouble following the "line"

[midlife]

Wipe down the weatherstrips with a good grease and wax remover, as the weatherstrip is usually coated with a dusty film that inhibits the adhesive.

[Brian Conway]

     In the ' any other tips '  category.  When I do the door weatherstrips I do a dry fit first.  Attach the WS at  the two locations on the door top with the plastic pins provided in the kit.  Install the WS in the channel at the door bottom.  There should be enough tension on the WS to hold it in the correct locations without glue.  Move the WS around, up and down making sure to get a good fit all around.  Then I use some masking tape, blue, to mark the door and WS locations all the way around the door.  Centerline at the door bottom, usually three marks around the lower radius's and a couple more on the straight aways.  When I feel the tension on the WS is about equal all the way around the door and I have enough benchmarks/check points I remove the WS and set it aside.   Clean the WS channel area all around the door.   I use the 3M product adhesive and have been happy with it.  After spreading the adhesive and you are happy with it start your install.  I usually put some on the WS as well.  I start at the door bottom get the centerline marks lined up and go to town hitting my tape marks, WS & door, right on up to the plastic pin installation.   Good luck with this.   Long winded enough?  Brian   

[CharlesTurner]

I use the same glue that Jeff posted the image of.  Works great with a small brush.  Have to brush the door and also brush the weather-strip.  If using repro weather-strip, it is very important, as Randy pointed out, to clean the rubber to get off the release film.  This can be done with mineral spirits or lacquer thinner.  Another important thing to consider on the repro weather-strip is to take some 120 grit sandpaper and rough up the contact areas of the thicker rubber ends.  This helps give the glue a little more bite and stay in place.

[priceless]

To do a pre-fit of your w'strip, you can also use scotch tape to hold it in place(no glue used yet,just pre-fit). I used the 3M yellow w'strip adhesive. These kind of things just takes patience. If anyone is in a hurry, you better wait until another day to do this.

I purposely made a few little runs on the installation because thats what I uncovered when I took the original w'strip off some years back. Some say, thats what judges like to see. Anyway, I tried to replicate as close to original as possible.

[C5ZZ]

I use a brushed on adhesive (yellow in color at least to start) Wipe in on the door and the weather strip then stick them together. Stuff is a loot stickier that the 3M and looks IMHO more original than the tube stuff.

Problem is you have to buy in in small amounts if you don't seal the can well the stuff turns to a nasty brown quickly. If you leave the brush that is attached to the lid in the stuff it tends to rust and turn the stuff also. So when I receive the can I split it into a number of small glass jars (baby food does nicely) so that if one turns I don't loose it all and it reduces the rusting possibility

Remember on original applications you should see the glue at least/typically at the corners and turns where the worker normally had trouble following the "line"

Jeff, where can I purchase this product? I was thinking there was a link to e-bay for it
but don't see it now, any help is appreciated!

[CharlesTurner]

Search 'neoprene rubber contact adhesive" on ebay and you'll find it.

[C5ZZ]

Search 'neoprene rubber contact adhesive" on ebay and you'll find it.

Thanks Charles, found it.

Would 1/2 pint be enough to do both doors and the trunk
on my 65 fastback or should I get a pint?

[J_Speegle]

Thanks Charles, found it.

Would 1/2 pint be enough to do both doors and the trunk
on my 65 fastback or should I get a pint?

Believe it would be. Brush some on the surface of the door with the brush and the weatherstrip - the stuff will grab and set quickly - strong stuff

[Bob Gaines]

I use a brushed on adhesive (yellow in color at least to start) Wipe in on the door and the weather strip then stick them together. Stuff is a loot stickier that the 3M and looks IMHO more original than the tube stuff.

Problem is you have to buy in in small amounts if you don't seal the can well the stuff turns to a nasty brown quickly. If you leave the brush that is attached to the lid in the stuff it tends to rust and turn the stuff also. So when I receive the can I split it into a number of small glass jars (baby food does nicely) so that if one turns I don't loose it all and it reduces the rusting possibility

Remember on original applications you should see the glue at least/typically at the corners and turns where the worker normally had trouble following the "line"

Just to add confirmation to Jeff's post the "trick" is to brush on the contact cement onto both surfaces (rubber weatherstrip AND metal surface). Once the glue(gets sticky) tacks up  install the weatherstrip and you will have minimal holding of strip before it sticks hard. You can do a sticky test on another sacrifice surface before hand because some brands tack in a minute or two others 5 minutes.  Be sure to pre fit pieces because once it sticks good you will most likely tear weatherstrip trying to remove if a mistake is made. I hope this helps. 

[C5ZZ]

Thanks for the help everyone!

Hope to have the car finished up and drive it over to the Indy show
in August, started on this project 11 years ago!

[evantugby]

I use a brushed on adhesive (yellow in color at least to start) Wipe in on the door and the weather strip then stick them together. Stuff is a loot stickier that the 3M and looks IMHO more original than the tube stuff.

Problem is you have to buy in in small amounts if you don't seal the can well the stuff turns to a nasty brown quickly. If you leave the brush that is attached to the lid in the stuff it tends to rust and turn the stuff also. So when I receive the can I split it into a number of small glass jars (baby food does nicely) so that if one turns I don't loose it all and it reduces the rusting possibility

Remember on original applications you should see the glue at least/typically at the corners and turns where the worker normally had trouble following the "line"

Jeff,
Is one quart of the neoprene contact adhesive enough to do the door and trunk lid?  I don't think this stuff was used on any of the windshield weather stripping, correct?

[J_Speegle]

Jeff,
Is one quart of the neoprene contact adhesive enough to do the door and trunk lid?  I don't think this stuff was used on any of the windshield weather stripping, correct?

A quart is way more than you will use on a whole car and once exposed to air it tends to change color and not have allot f shelf life after opening

Just my experience 

[Bob Gaines]

A quart is way more than you will use on a whole car and once exposed to air it tends to change color and not have allot f shelf life after opening

Just my experience

That's a whole lot of baby food jars to use up. Shelf life is maybe a few weeks if you are lucky once exposed to the air for the first time. I imagine that would include transfering to smaller jars as Jeff previously suggested. #7160 is what is on the small baby food jar size can of that brand adhesive I have used . It is more than enough to do a door and trunklid. Most likely enough to do both doors IMO.