Topic: What's the proper way to install door weatherstrips?

[CharlesTurner]

They sell 1/2 pint with a brush on the lid.  If you're just doing one car, this should be plenty.  Other than door weather-strip and trunk lid seal, this type of glue was used in other areas such as:

-Headliner
-Carpet on bottom of quarters for fastbacks
-Attaching insulation to back of kick panels
-Gluing down the luggage protector in the trunk
-Roof rail weather-strip

I might be missing more, but keeping it to '66 models

BTW, the 3M glue is useless for this type of thing.  Another trick is to wipe off the contact surface of the repro weather-strip with some solvent.  Also, roughing it up on the contact edges with some 180 sandpaper will help give more bite to the glue.  When applying the neoprene adhesive, do about a 12" section at a time

[RoyceP]

By the time I have installed the trunk weatherstrip, door weatherstrip, roof insulation, headliner, and beltline molding it generally has used up 3/4 quart of 3M weatherstripping adhesive. If the car has a vinyl top I will use close to 1 1/2 quarts.

A great place to buy quarts of 3M contact adhesive is https://skygeek.com

That's a whole lot of baby food jars to use up. Shelf life is maybe a few weeks if you are lucky once exposed to the air for the first time. I imagine that would include transfering to smaller jars as Jeff previously suggested. #7160 is what is on the small baby food jar size can of that brand adhesive I have used . It is more than enough to do a door and trunklid. Most likely enough to do both doors IMO.

[J_Speegle]

By the time I have installed the trunk weatherstrip, door weatherstrip, roof insulation, headliner, and beltline molding it generally has used up 3/4 quart of 3M weatherstripping adhesive. If the car has a vinyl top I will use close to 1 1/2 quarts.

I've gotten away from using one product for all and have found using specific products work better for me and reproduce the original products better. Do use 3M for sprayable purposes. Vinyl top, roof insulation and the limited headliner needs. Often just the rattle can 3M for cars without vinyl top

You included beltline molding. Must be a Cougar thing since Mustang just snaps in place and did have any adhesive originally or maybe your using the term to describe something else

Of course what ever works for each of us as long as we reach the same end goal

[RoyceP]

The Cougar uses the same C5ZZ beltline molding rubber weatherstrip as a Mustang. It must be glued into place on a Cougar because it has to be stretched in order to not have a big gap at the rear.

I used to use 3M Fastbond 10 but they have apparently discontinued it. 1347 Yellow is the only appropriate 3M product these days that offers the same performance. I have to buy it 5 gallons at a time so I put it in quart cans for convenience when brushing. It is the same type of product that Ford used on the assembly line for door and trunk seals and headliners vinyl tops.

I've gotten away from using one product for all and have found using specific products work better for me and reproduce the original products better. Do use 3M for sprayable purposes. Vinyl top, roof insulation and the limited headliner needs. Often just the rattle can 3M for cars without vinyl top

You included beltline molding. Must be a Cougar thing since Mustang just snaps in place and did have any adhesive originally or maybe your using the term to describe something else

Of course what ever works for each of us as long as we reach the same end goal

[J_Speegle]

The Cougar uses the same C5ZZ beltline molding rubber weatherstrip as a Mustang. It must be glued into place on a Cougar because it has to be stretched in order to not have a big gap at the rear.

We must be using different terms for different items. On a Mustang shops, web sites and (not sure but believe) Ford uses the term "beltline" as the strips (rubber and/or fuzzies) at the roll-up window openings both on the inside and exterior surface.

65-66 (C5ZZ) version/style grabbed from an EBay ad recently

[RoyceP]

Apologies I must have had temporary oldtimer's disease. I meant roof rail weatherstripping.

[J_Speegle]

Apologies I must have had temporary oldtimer's disease. I meant roof rail weatherstripping.

Something we all fall victim to from time to time   Just need to clarify for others

[dkknab]

Old topic but I just got done installing my door weatherstripping and I'll say using the 3M 8001 adhesive I got from npd was no fun.  Being in a tube made it hard to apply without it going everywhere.  It was very stringy when you lifted off the tube and it ran down easily since I was installing the weatherstripping on the doors installed on the car.  What are the current options for brush on yellow adhesive? I have my rear trunk hood to do but of course that needs to be done off the car and laying flat.

[Bob Gaines]

Old topic but I just got done installing my door weatherstripping and I'll say using the 3M 8001 adhesive I got from npd was no fun.  Being in a tube made it hard to apply without it going everywhere.  It was very stringy when you lifted off the tube and it ran down easily since I was installing the weatherstripping on the doors installed on the car.  What are the current options for brush on yellow adhesive? I have my rear trunk hood to do but of course that needs to be done off the car and laying flat.

I will squeeze adhesive from the tube (if using)into a cup and use a small acid brush or equivalent to apply.  You need to apply in a thin layer to BOTH surfaces separately. let the adhesive start to tack up on both surfaces before putting the weatherstrip in place. Different adhesives tack up at different rates. You may want to do a sample on a piece of scrap so you know what to expect. It sticks better this way so you don't typically have to use tape to hold in place except in hard turn radius .

[dkknab]

What's the ole saying? Hindsight is 20-20? I should have done that but didn't. Here are some pictures of my door seals. How bad are they really?

[ruppstang]

I am sure it will hold but it does not look like factory.

[dkknab]

Any suggestions to get a sort of factory look? It seems to me the yellow adhesive should not be showing that much between the seal and the door.  I think I'm going to live with what I have but could make some tweaks if needed.

[jwc66k]

Any suggestions to get a sort of factory look?

A brush, patience and the third or fourth door should do it.
Jim

[dkknab]

So would you suggest I remove these and try again? The weatherstripping isn't overly expensive.  I got the Daniel Carpenter version and I could easily get another set. I'm assuming it would be best to start fresh though since the top corners are set,  I wonder if I could remove the bulk of the weatherstripping,  clean the door and put the weatherstripping back on so it sits more flush in the groove. The outer edge at the bottom didn't sit flat which is why you can see the glue on my case. Should it?

Does anyone have some good pictures of what it should look like they could share when done? I've looked at the unrestored pictures already.

The big question is what adhesive.  I don't like the consistency of the 3M stuff in a tube I got from NPD. Though I didn't brush it on it seems to be very stringy like gooey string cheese when you pulled the tube away. I see there is a Herco adhesive mentioned on some past threads and the 3M 10 contact adhesive too. Do these work well but are easy to brush on?

What is the best suggestion in my case with my mess? Thanks for the honest feedback.

[dkknab]

Followup to my own post.  I've decided that a redo is in order. As Jim said,  doors 3 and 4 will hopefully be better.  I've ordered some of the Herco adhesive mentioned on this thread and a new set of weatherstripping.

So I'll just like to see some pictures of a finished job if possible.  I'm a bit confused as to how the weatherstripping sits in the groove.  Should it be flush on both sides so you can't see any adhesive? I'm guessing using as little as possible adhesive too will help avoid my sloppy first go.