Topic: mounting hardware for blower motor guard & chin spoiler?

[7Lscjracer]

Got some stuff from AMK, but it's different than what I recall seeing in the past.
Maybe not a bad thing, but if I could see a pic of what is actually correct, that would be great thanks.
When I bought a spoiler in '81, it came with a torn and shorted package of gold cad hex head screws.
AMK supplies black phillips flange screws which are actually better for securing.
Too bad they only bundle 12 instead of the required 14.
The guard package includes 2 black hex head screws and a black jam nut.
I thought they were phillips flange screws and a pal nut with sealer?
I also thought 69/70 door speaker grill screws were black, but I got shiny silver ones?

[Bob Gaines]

Our '69 Mach 1 has been shown in MCA off and on since 1998, and more recently, pretty consistant since 2006. We show in the MCA concours class. We are 2 points from  getting to put our Mach 1 in the conservator class. We have never been deducted any points for the front spoiler or the screws that attach it to the valance.  I will try to post a few pictures of the phillips screw head side and the inside where the threads show. 

The screws seem to be of a phosphate color. hope this helps.

Congrats on how far you have come with your car in MCA concours class and the best of luck in the future.  I am more into the Shelbys which uses a different hardware for the spoiler but although there are a number of different styles of flange Phillips head screws used in a 69 Mach I, I don't recall a Philips head screw that looks like the style head design you picture used originally .  I know you have never been deducted points as you have said before. Is this a original style if so where else is it used on the car for comparison or is it a contemporary hardware store generic variety  . My concern is someone else duplicating the work thinking the head style was a assemblyline or period dealer type fastener.  I don't think it is assemblyline type original or period Dealer stock original but may be wrong . Hopefully others will have input. As we progress with authenticity knowledge something that may be good "enough" before may not be good enough in the future for others .

[7Lscjracer]

Thanks for the pics!
Sorry, the screws don't look right to me either though.
They're just like the type I see in the little packages of body shop hardware on the spin rack.
In fact, I have a bunch of them in various lengths in my storage cases.
The AMK ones are smooth dome head phillips with the flat washer flange underneath, and have a bigger footprint.
Trouble is, the MPC specs 40953-S, but the spoiler installation instruction sheet just notes "screw & washer assy".
The AMK guide to Ford fasteners 1955 to 1973 shows that as a 1/4-20 X 3/4" long hex washer thread cutter (page 168).
That's the type I seem to recall shipping with my spoiler back in '81.
Several were gone from the ripped package when I bought it, and I have no idea what I did with the rest afterward.

[7Lscjracer]

I thought so.
Here's a pic from Scott's site showing the flange phillips head screws I mentioned.
Hard to see, but I don't think that guard mounting nut is stacked on top of the blower motor mounting nut.
Looks like it was a re and re to install the guard.
Anybody have part numbers for the hardware?

[J_Speegle]

I thought so.
Here's a pic from Scott's site showing the flange phillips head screws I mentioned.
Hard to see, but I don't think that guard mounting nut is stacked on top of the blower motor mounting nut.
Looks like it was a re and re to install the guard.
Anybody have part numbers for the hardware?

Sorry missed this one earlier - have to ask. What plant are you asking about since hardware often differed between plants

As for the spoiler - are you asking for a 70 or a 69 installation?

[7Lscjracer]

Hi Jeff, the plant is San Jose, and the spoiler is a 69 too.

[rockhouse66]

The one on my '69 SJ car was apparently attached with just the PS nut and by the stud nut; no screws were used.  I doubt that this was the norm though.

[7Lscjracer]

Thanks for the pic. It's a great close up.
I don't know if this is typical or not either.
Funny the PS pal nut is clean like that, and I thought the other side just located over the stud.
Your blower motor is 1/4 turn clockwise compared to the other pic too.
A long finger guard would hit your wiring grommet.

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks for the pic. It's a great close up.
I don't know if this is typical or not either.
Funny the PS pal nut is clean like that, and I thought the other side just located over the stud.
Your blower motor is 1/4 turn clockwise compared to the other pic too.
A long finger guard would hit your wiring grommet.

From the  factory you would see sound deadner /sealer all around the perimeter including varing amounts on the fasteners if never removed. You can see the sealer witness line on the firewall in the picture. The guard with the long finger was supposed to be used to protect the A/C lines and expansion valve, and the short cut off one for the heater motor on non a/c cars. In practical real world use I have seen them used from the factory with no regard for proper intended usage.

[rockhouse66]

Funny the PS pal nut is clean like that, and I thought the other side just located over the stud.
Your blower motor is 1/4 turn clockwise compared to the other pic too.
A long finger guard would hit your wiring grommet.

When I got the car, the guard was missing as was the nut on the PS stud, and there was a clear witness line in the firewall sound deadener where it had been.  There are no holes for screws.  I deduced that the PS nut was removed and the extra nut on the other stud was removed to take the guard off the car.  I used a new (clean) nut to replace the missing one so that is why it looks naked (no sound deadener).  Like I said, this may not be the norm, but I am pretty sure this is the way mine was done.

[svo2scj]

My 4/69 SJ car didn't have the holes drilled either.

Mark

[J_Speegle]

Hi Jeff, the plant is San Jose, and the spoiler is a 69 too.

Checked my pictures and though many were hard to see since allot of parts get in the way, I found maybe a dozen all the same - pan head screws through the smaller holes on the drivers side of the bracket


Here you can barely make out that the hole over the one heater stud has not nut over it 




On the CJ I use to have you can see the two screw holes were there




This one is one where you can make out the pan head screw





For the front spoiler - I'm sure you have seen the discussions explaining that adding a front spoiler with normally result in point deductions at a judged show


Not sure if you have seen the original installation diagram and the hardware it lists


Believe its been posted on this site at least once





Hope this helps

[7Lscjracer]

Thanks for looking up those pics Jeff.
I still have the instruction sheet that came with my spoiler.
I'm not worried about the points issue.
Since the spoiler is original Ford, I simply want the original screws for it.

"The MPC specs 40953-S, but the spoiler installation instruction sheet just notes "screw & washer assy".
The AMK guide to Ford fasteners 1955 to 1973 shows that as a 1/4-20 X 3/4" long hex washer thread cutter (page 168).
That's the type I seem to recall shipping with my spoiler back in '81.
Several were gone from the ripped package when I bought it, and I have no idea what I did with the rest afterward."

I'm going to use the MPC spec fasteners for the spoiler since there appears to be no info to the contrary.

For the guard, I'll go with a re and re of the existing outboard sealer filled pal nut to secure the bracket, and over top of the existing inboard sealer filled pal nut with a jam nut like in rockhouse66's pic, OR use 2 phillips flange head screws like in the 428 cobra jet website pic and not add the jam nut.
Note that the AMK package does include a jam nut, but 2 hex head screws that I've never seen used on a guard.
At least they got some of it right.

[J_Speegle]

For the guard, I'll go with a re and re of the existing outboard sealer filled pal nut to secure the bracket, and over top of the existing inboard sealer filled pal nut with a jam nut like in rockhouse66's pic, OR use 2 phillips flange head screws like in the 428 cobra jet website pic and not add the jam nut..........

One vote for the screws on the drivers side of the bracket

[Brian Conway]

     The photo example imported from the Cobra Jet Registry is of a 68 KR car and maybe not the best reference.  The Rockhouse  car and photo shows a 69 SJ car without screws or holes. The post by svo2scj seems to agree.  Similar method used on the East coast. Brian