Topic: Fastback Rear Seat Chrome Evaluation –

[jwc66k]

I got the 65-68 Fastback rear seat chrome set from a Mustang parts seller a few years back, as part of a liquidation sale. It has a few problems. I actually got three, this one, one for my 65 Fastback (to be installed) and one used on a 67 Fastback with the items listed in note 3 below rechromed.
This is a DII Corvex set, p/n FD01-S27, except as noted.
Notes:
1 It only fits 66 without modification.
2 For 1965, the front piece of the curved section supplied has the 5/16inch clearance holes for the cup type bumpers that the 66 uses. I would recommend the old piece be rechromed.
3 For 1967 and 1968 the side pieces on the seat back section do not have the recess for the two seat back hold up latches and the left hand side is also missing the cut-out for the latch. I would recommend the old pieces be rechromed. I used the rest of the kit on a 67 Fastback with little problems.
Here are some dimensions and comments on the rear fixed section which is all I got done today. I selected common areas for measurements that had no corrosion and were flat. On long items I made a measurement at each end. Measurements in inches.
      Orig      Repro
Back sect -   0.026/0.027   0.040/0.040   Rough cut bottom edge, ends curved up, flat finish
RH side    -   0.026      0.027
LH side -                  0.027      0.028
Front sect -    0.024/0.024   0.026/0.025
Cup -       0.034      0.039      Scott Drake
Striker -      I used a replated original. I put a small ring of calk around the screws to keep them from moving before final adjustment and tightening.
An interesting observation, the reproduction parts were for the most part thicker.
Hardware – The repro oval head sheet metal screws (52352-S13) supplied by AMK have a different thread pitch than the screws I removed. The screws removed are 8-15X5/8 and the AMK supplied are 8-18X5/8. AMK identifies 52352-S13 as 8-18X5/8 in their 2010 catalog (pg 81) which is in disagreement with their Guide To Ford Fasteners, pg 152. What AMK supplies is 55984-S13 (pg 153). AMK does not list 55984-Sx in their catalog. The eight AMK supplied machine screws were the same dimensions as those I removed, but the two hex head used to hold the striker had a different head marking, my originals were marked “Sems”. These were from an AMK master kit F-772. Their individual packaged screw heads are marked “Sems” but are grade 5.1. I reused my originals.
Pictures –
1 Rear section showing the original’s corrosion and a “flat” chrome finish on the original.
2 The rear section end lift, original RH side with original corrosion above the installed repro, the “cup” installed with the long screw “ready”.
In general, I would consider the chrome kit acceptable with the above notes considered, at least the DII version. There is no telling what quality, fit or finish are in the current kits. The current kits are listed by NPD at $277.95 and consist of 13 pieces. To rechrome everything would be between $800 and $1000, and the hinge may have discoloration and may be frozen in one position from the process.
Jim

[jwc66k]

I finally got the folding section done and here's what I found. The metal was a bit thicker on the several pieces I measured and in no instance did I find it to be thinner. The chrome plating did peel off from one end of the piece that is covered by the hinge, see pic 2. The "fits" were not perfect, gaps and overlaps in a few joints. I did have to "move two mounting holes" but you cannot see them. To get the side pieces installed over the long strips, I used a 6 foot long clamp, a flat screw driver and a rubber mallet.
Pictures:
1. Front edge with gap. (I'll adjust the bumper after installation.)
2. Hinge with the side piece overlaping which pushed the hinge end out. Install the rubber bumpers (there are four) before you put the side pieces on. The latch guide (the black thing - Scott Drake) seems to be too high and causes the seat to "wobble" when folded down. Where the first hinge mounting screw is seen is where the chrome peeled.
3. This is one of the two holes I had to "move". It's in the rear folding section near the hinge to the body. I flattened the countersink, punched a new location about 3/32 to the rear with a centerpunch and drilled a 3/16 hole. The installed screw head restored the countersink. Sorry about the picture quality, but it does give an idea where the problem was.
My same conclusion applies to the rest of the chrome trim, acceptable.
Jim