Topic: No runs, or drips on the bottom, a point deduction?

[jtfx6552]

I'm getting ready to paint the bottom of mine. I have to say it will be real hard to actually cause the drips. If I can't bring myself to do it, would it be a deduction?

[jwc66k]

Think sloppy. The assembly line workers were bored, stoned and/or drunk so follow their example and make a drip or two.
Jim

[J_Speegle]

I'm getting ready to paint the bottom of mine. I have to say it will be real hard to actually cause the drips. If I can't bring myself to do it, would it be a deduction?

I'm guessing that if your having problems with this detail you'll be hesitant to do those also (example firewall sealant)  Depends on the judge but IMHO they should deduct for any of these shortcomings since if they are not there its not as it was originally. Of course its your car and your choice - just accept that choices can cost

BTW its not that hard to produce the floor pan drips

[jtfx6552]

I'm guessing that if your having problems with this detail you'll be hesitant to do those also (example firewall sealant)  Depends on the judge but IMHO they should deduct for any of these shortcomings since if they are not there its not as it was originally. Of course its your car and your choice - just accept that choices can cost

BTW its not that hard to produce the floor pan drips

When I wrote the in initial post, I wasn't so much worried about the technique to do it, but the will full act of adding runs.

BUT, with this new fangled epoxy, it seems to look more like "fish eyes" rather than the drips and runs of the original style paint when I've goofed and put on too much material.

[J_Speegle]

When I wrote the in initial post, I wasn't so much worried about the technique to do it, but the will full act of adding runs....

Think I got that as I've had plenty of owners ask me to put sealant (another one of those messy details that owners can't seem to bring themselves to do) on the firewall. In another example I had an owner in the early 90's that after spending 6 months getting the unibody all straightened out could not understand why I wanted to throw overspray all over the place

Your in good company but we're also here to give you support and backing to make the hard choices

Good luck with whichever path you choose

[1965 t5]

I'm guessing that if your having problems with this detail you'll be hesitant to do those also (example firewall sealant)  Depends on the judge but IMHO they should deduct for any of these shortcomings since if they are not there its not as it was originally. Of course its your car and your choice - just accept that choices can cost

BTW its not that hard to produce the floor pan drips

Jeff - What is the current efficient way to replicate the drips on the underside?

[J_Speegle]

Jeff - What is the current efficient way to replicate the drips on the underside?

"Efficient" way ?     Not sure if anything I do has ever been called efficient. Easiest I've found is just leave the original paint, scuff it and shot a light full coat of new color over the top if the original stuff is still there and the floors are in good condition. Much like the seam sealers and sound deadener - unless you suspect rust is growing under it leave it alone. Its too hard to get looking right when you reapply.   Others are using simple rattle cans to apply along the floor ribs and sections of floor, frame rails and brackets that hang down until multiple drips form then overcoat these with your final color coat. Takes some time - but beats trying to stand under the car and producing the same effect with the final color

[Bob Gaines]

"Efficient" way ?     Not sure if anything I do has ever been called efficient. Easiest I've found is just leave the original paint, scuff it and shot a light full coat of new color over the top if the original stuff is still there and the floors are in good condition. Much like the seam sealers and sound deadener - unless you suspect rust is growing under it leave it alone. Its too hard to get looking right when you reapply.   Others are using simple rattle cans to apply along the floor ribs and sections of floor, frame rails and brackets that hang down until multiple drips form then overcoat these with your final color coat. Takes some time - but beats trying to stand under the car and producing the same effect with the final color

+1

[drummingrocks]

I'm surprised that spray can paint will build up enough to simulate the drips.  Still, I agree that that's a much better idea than trying to make runs when you're applying final color!   

[67gtasanjose]

+1

"Efficient" way ?   
 
...Easiest I've found is just leave the original paint, scuff it and shot a light full coat of new color over the top if the original stuff is still there and the floors are in good condition.

... Others are using simple rattle cans to apply along the floor ribs and sections of floor, frame rails and brackets that hang down until multiple drips form then overcoat these with your final color coat.

What if we need to simply replace a few "drips" that were scraped off or fell off during undercarrage clean up? Is there a good method using a product such as Glazing Putty to replicate those "missing few drips" that you can make out the witness marks of?

Richard

[J_Speegle]

What if we need to simply replace a few "drips" that were scraped off or fell off during undercarrage clean up? Is there a good method using a product such as Glazing Putty to replicate those "missing few drips" that you can make out the witness marks of?

Believe you will find that when dry glazing putty is too delicate for this since they hang down and can be easily bumped or knocked off.

Your looking for something catalyzed  and hard like the original finish

[drummingrocks]

Believe you will find that when dry glazing putty is too delicate for this since they hang down and can be easily bumped or knocked off.

Your looking for something catalyzed  and hard like the original finish

It seems like a good 2K primer would do the job.  It'll spray nicely (and should run fairly easily) when wet, but will be pretty hard when it dries.  Maybe even an epoxy primer would be better, though I'm not sure if it would sag or run as well as 2K.  I'd think epoxy would be stronger when cured, though.

The tough part will be thinning the primer to where it will successfully and controllably run when you want it to, without messing the mixture ratio up enough that the primer never fully cures or hardens.

[67gtasanjose]

Believe you will find that when dry glazing putty is too delicate for this since they hang down and can be easily bumped or knocked off.

Your looking for something catalyzed  and hard like the original finish

Any Ideas? I will have areas that would require a complete"spray and sag" the curtain or runs and drips, but also I have a few missing "pimples" here and there. I wouldn't mind a THICK substance that can be topcoated after it dries, yet can be applied while on the rotisserie for these "pimples" The other areas, like where I do other repair work, I figured the method mentioned here earlier would work great. I could also skip doing the missing "pimples" since I already have a teenager complexion going on down there ...

Richard

[DKutz]

Jeff - What is the current efficient way to replicate the drips on the underside?

Yeah, have my kids spray it...

[jwc66k]

Yeah, have my kids spray it...

I think you got it, or just be sloppy. I use that painting technique almost without trying.
Jim