you reference using a Vibratory tumbler in Step 9. Is that in lieu of the Rock tumbler Step 5?
It's in two different steps that I use the rock tumbler and the viabrator.
Could acetone be used as a cleaning/drying agent in Step 6? I am going to be doing very small batches initially and would likely move to the phosphate/plating step in short order after tumbling.
Acetone is flammable. I avoid things that burn and go boom in the night. Ask Jeff about fire related stuff. My fire fighting experience stems from being in a Damage Control Party on a US Navy Destroyer. However, my kerosene is kept and used outside. All containers are covered except when accessed.
You indicate bead blasting everything. I assume this is to remove the kerosene or other protective coating that was placed on the parts until ready for phosphate/plating. I garner it is also to prepare the parts to better accept whatever final coating is being applied. If this is the case than going straight from tumbler to phosphate wouldn't be an option.
The volatile part of the kerosene evaporates after awhile, leaving a light oil residue. That residue reduces the probability of rust, but it's still too "sticky" for the glass beads. I've got tumbled and kerosene dipped parts on the shelf for over 15 years (it's the low humidity and lack of rain in Northern California). The blasting gets into the threads and cleans them out. If you don't do this, your nuts and bolts will have a dark band in the thread and quite possibly will not thread and torque properly.
Question, is there an etching solution or other option to blasting? I have not gotten a blasting cabinet yet...might need to just bite the bullet. I suspect using a vibratory tumbler with a course media wouldn't quite cut it.
A vibrator tumbler uses 3/16 ceramic pyramids as a media, way too big to get in to clean the threads of nuts and bolts. I got in to doing a lot of parts so my procedure was as follows: soak in cold parts cleaner for a week; rinse in soapy clothes washer water; air dry for a week; tumble in metal filings for a week; dip in kerosene; air dry for at least two weeks; bead blast up to four days in advance of phosphating; phosphate; rinse immediately; air dry in air temperatures above 72F (Northern California does that) for an hour or two; spray with WD-40; sort (the batches are usually between 150 and 300 items). Beer drinking is encouraged.
Contact forum member preaction about phosphating materials.
A rock tumbler is not going to get the job done.
After 20 some odd years of using a rock tumbler (I even used the tumbler for rocks one winter), I can safely say that is gets the job done very well.
I got a couple of customers "encouraging" me to phosphate some hardware right now. I prefer to do a quality job so I'll wait for some warmer weather.
Jim
