Topic: Phosphating 101 -

[rockhouse66]

Jim:  Is your media clean that is used to blast the pieces?  The muriatic acid ought to prevent any issues.  I normally just blow dry after rinsing off in water and soak everything in motor oil for 24 hours.

Charles - I have pretty clean fine glass bead media.  I never blast a greasy part but it does get contaminated with solids of course (paint, corrosion).  The muriatic acid is intended to get all of the oil/grease out of the pores of the metal.  I haven't tried going straight from the phosphating bath to the motor oil, skipping the oven, so maybe that is all I need to do but I felt like my parts needed to be bone dry first, thus the heat.  My tedious process seems to be working and I do these in batches so I am reluctant to change or experiment at this point, even if it allows me to skip a step.  You know - if it ain't broke......

[CharlesTurner]

The phosphate process creates a coating on the surface, so I don't think moisture would be absorbing into the metal surface like on bare, freshly blasted steel.  I've been using my process for 15-20 years I would guess, works well.  I use a strainer for dipping in oil bath, remove and wipe off excess with paper towels and then lay the parts out on paper towels on a bench.  I don't like the oily surface, so before installing, I usually clean them with dishwashing detergent and an old toothbrush, dry off and then apply some boeshield or cosmoline.

[rockhouse66]

I should probably apply Boeshield before I install the parts, just as a precaution against any rust specs showing up later on.  I also have the Cosmoline option.

[rtate]

Charles , how long do you leave the parts in the oil bath and how long do they sit before you clean with detergent ?

[CharlesTurner]

Charles , how long do you leave the parts in the oil bath and how long do they sit before you clean with detergent ?

Usually just overnight is fine.  When I do a batch for a car, it takes a while to go through everything, some sit longer than others.  The process seems pretty consistent.

[J_Speegle]

Charles , how long do you leave the parts in the oil bath and how long do they sit before you clean with detergent ?

I've never followed with a cleaning after then are soaked. Just a simple wipe. Don't want to reduce the protection I spent time putting on.

I heat before I soak to open the pores and hope that some of the oil penetrated deeper into the item more than a simple wipe of cold dunk.  Of course our parts locally don't have the humidity to deal with but would rather be over protected than under.

Will/do go back over the surfaces like threads and such after sub assemblies are assembled to attached to the car also with the same or similar products 

[jwc66k]

Just a reminder, the "WD" part of "WD-40" means "Water Displacement", that's why it is used at our level.
The original hardware manufacturers took hot, phosphated parts and dropped them in a special hot oil tank. (I believe there was a rinse step in there and I would assume it was hot too.) The oil they used was not regular motor oil either (most likely a proprietary mix), but it probably made a lot of smoke and stunk up the facility. All the steps were done quickly. I can picture a conveyor basket system as a possible method.
Jim 

[rtate]

So , re-reading again for the 100th time 
I'm not sure the "oil bath " is feasible for my hood hinges ?
Is it worth the 5-6 gallons of oil required to soak the hinges ?
Or is spraying with Boe-Shield good enough ?

[J_Speegle]

So , re-reading again for the 100th time 
I'm not sure the "oil bath " is feasible for my hood hinges ?
Is it worth the 5-6 gallons of oil required to soak the hinges ?
Or is spraying with Bio-Shield good enough ?

You can use an aluminum/foil turkey pan or something similar to place the oil in and that way it won't take that much oil. I your not heating them than even extra large zip lock style bag would take even less oil

Just a thought and some options to consider

[rtate]

Great idea !
I think the turkey pans will work !

[rtate]

So , I think the muriatic acid dip may be a worthwhile step for my hinges but have a couple of questions
1) can I use a foil roasting pan for submerging the hinges in the muriatic acid ? or do I need to use plastic ?
2) how long should I leave the parts submerged, assuming full strength acid.
3) water rinse/dunk and pat dry after removal ?

[Bob Gaines]

So , I think the muriatic acid dip may be a worthwhile step for my hinges but have a couple of questions
1) can I use a foil roasting pan for submerging the hinges in the muriatic acid ? or do I need to use plastic ?
2) how long should I leave the parts submerged, assuming full strength acid.
3) water rinse/dunk and pat dry after removal ?

Plastic or glass if using the Muratic acid . Aluminum turkey pan is OK for oil but a big no for the acid.  Of course plastic would be best given the possibility of breakage.

[Bob Gaines]

So , I think the muriatic acid dip may be a worthwhile step for my hinges but have a couple of questions
1) can I use a foil roasting pan for submerging the hinges in the muriatic acid ? or do I need to use plastic ?
2) how long should I leave the parts submerged, assuming full strength acid.
3) water rinse/dunk and pat dry after removal ?

I didn't see this post until after i answered your PM - [Quote from: rtate on July 22, 2022, 10:22:32 PM
Hi Bob, reading the phosphating 101 thread and I think I'm going to do the muriatic acid dip first and had a couple of questions for you.
1) how long should I leave the hinge in the acid
2) Do you water rise/dip after and then pat dry ?
3) and then right to the phosphating process ?
4) full strength muriatic acid ? ]
If it is plated I would say full strength . If you are just wanting to get it cleaned from any contamination after bead blasting etc. the 50/50 mixture. Be careful and were safety glasses.  If striping plating you leave in the full strength until it almost stops fizzing . If cleaning possible contamination then A minute or two is all that is needed. Wash off with water . No need to pat dry if you are immediately going into the phosphating process. After phosphating process rinse in water and then pat dry. Bake in oven is best to get water out of joints. Be prepared to oil up after it is dry .]

[rtate]

My Phosphating is now completed and I'm very pleased with the results   
Thanks for this guide and all the help I received along the way !
 One final question though...
How do I know if both the muriatic acid and phosphating solution are neutralized ?

1 gallon of muriatic  mixed with 1 gallon water
 phosphoric acid mixed 4:1 with water

I added 1lb of borax to each so far, will that be enough ?

[preaction]

Im tring to do some trouble shooting has anyone come across a situation while doing phosphating I have had a white flakey material condensing and suspended in the hot water/phosphate solution ? This seems to happen towards the end of my phosphating process.