Topic: MAR 66 Metuchen Convertible Tack Strips

[bryancobb]

Even with the Osbourne assembly book, I can't figure out how the ORIGINAL 3-piece tack strip set is suppose to look when it's installed as per assembly-line method?  I'm referring to the one that is at the bottom of the rear curtain and the bottom of the 2 convertible top flaps.

The last hole in the 2 outer pieces is a slot that makes the end look like a fork.  The Osbourne Interior Assembly book shows on page 41, section DD, and in the Body Assembly book, on page 53, section CC, that the center strip stacks on top of the 2 outer strips.  I guess the forked ends are so a new top can be installed without disturbing the curtain.  The outer pieces can just be slid out from under the center tack strip when the 2 outer bolts are loosened.

This seems to dictate that the bolts in the center piece DO NOT get pulled up tight against the body sheet metal (sandwiching the curtain's bottom fabric between the tack strip and the body).

Q: Are the bolts for the center piece suppose to be tight, or should they be left screwed out about 1/4" to allow for the stacked condition at both ends?
    I know the 2 end bolts are suppose to be tight.  I'm just asking about the ones in-between?

[bryancobb]

Trying to figure out what to do about the tack strips.  Mine are the ones that overlap at the joints.

[CharlesTurner]

The rear quarters go on first so the rear curtain can be removed separately later if needed.  The reasoning being that it is typical for the rear windows to crack when owner's put the tops up or down during cold weather.  Or, they usually get hazy and need to be replaced.  Normal to have the rear window replaced twice for every one total top replacement.  A lot of shops will just sew in a new plastic window using the existing curtain and then cut away the damaged or hazy one.

[bryancobb]

That make sense.  I just wonder if the assembly-line tightened up the three middle bolts which would "force-bend" the middle tack strip, or did they stop tightening them 1/4" before the tack strip contacted the gutter?

[bryancobb]

I'm gonna sandblast, and paint mine with "cold-galvanize" spray and reinstall them.  I'm sure the repops aren't made like these and I can't get these clear zinc'd with the staple strips crimped inside.  They are almost like black cardboard.

[CharlesTurner]

Actually, this is one thing that the repro is pretty good.  I have used them in the past with no problems.  If you've had more than a couple tops put on, the fiber area may be weak from staples and your new top might not tack well to them.  In addition, the sheer age of the fiber may lend itself to crumbling and yielding a not-so-good stapling material.

[bryancobb]

Are the repops the "overlap" style like I have?

[CharlesTurner]

Are the repops the "overlap" style like I have?

Yes, I think there are 3 versions they sell.

[bryancobb]

Rear plastic curtain question.
Do any of the NEW curtains available today have the highlighted "water dam" attached on each side?"
Does anyone have a picture of an OEM one or remembers seeing one?  Trying to determine if the cross-section shown in this drawing is a fair representation of what it was shaped like.
2000 model year cars (and newer) that I have looked at have a large extruded "cord-welt" shape piece sewn on there that does the same thing.  It keeps water from wetting the pads.

[bryancobb]

This is an NOS curtain!  Could that tiny cord-welt sewn on be the part that is shown highlighted in yellow?  It looks like a totally different item???

[bryancobb]

I can't see the BRAND on the brass tab of the zipper.  Is it a "Talon" brand?