Topic: 66 Convertible top frame hardware finishes.

[bryancobb]

Hi guys,

I'm pretty sure all the hardware to assemble the top frame was all either plain or clear zinc and the whole assembled frame was painted and that covered up all the hardware with a coat of black.  Am I correct?

Could someone provide me a list the (before paint) color of these 20 hardware items>
Thanks in advance,
Bryan

[jwc66k]

What is item 12 and where does it go? I have a rusty one sitting on my desk but all I know is that it's a convertible part.
Jim

[CharlesTurner]

#20 should be painted black.  The plates were attached to the top frame when it was painted.  Then removed when the top cylinders or spring cylinders were installed.

[bryancobb]

Jim,

Item 12 is an eccentric with Allen Screw hole in the center, with a washer/pointer to adjust the extended position of the top.  If you are sitting in the back seat with the top up, this eccentric is about at your shoulder.

[bryancobb]

Jim,

Item 12 is an eccentric with Allen Screw hole in the center, with a washer/pointer to adjust the extended position of the top.  If you are sitting in the back seat with the top up, this eccentric is about at your shoulder.

Yes Charles,  I saw that there was no paint between the plate and bracket when I disassembled and the bolys painted black.  My plan is to get the bolts yellow zinc dichromate to prevent future corrosion and then apply a light coat of black after assembly.

[bryancobb]

Can anyone tell me what this #53138 assembly is?  I have never seen one on a 65 or 66 convertible top frame?

[bryancobb]

As you can see, I have (2 each) #1A10'S & (1 each) 50636.  These will clean up nicely.

Does anyone have TWO spare 378839-S Allen Head shoulder bolts, and ONE 50636 Serrated-Flange Hex Locknut ?

I need I need!




Thanks,
Bryan

[CharlesTurner]

Can anyone tell me what this #53138 assembly is?  I have never seen one on a 65 or 66 convertible top frame?

Looks like a rubber deflection pad I have seen.  I'm guessing most of them got tossed the first time a top was replaced.

[bryancobb]

CAN SOMEONE AT LEAST POST A PICTURE OF THE SHOULDER BOLT?

[bryancobb]

OK , I got a picture.  If this will help anyone, it did help me.  Now I can fabricate two by modifying a McMaster-Carr shoulder (shown)

[jwc66k]

Brian,
  I would be more inclined to turn down a 7/8in dia bar (or larger) to the screw's dimensions and then getting the screws heat treated. Remember, that is a pivot point and is subject to wear (in 15 or 20 years).
Jim

[bryancobb]

Brian,
  I would be more inclined to turn down a 7/8in dia bar (or larger) to the screw's dimensions and then getting the screws heat treated. Remember, that is a pivot point and is subject to wear (in 15 or 20 years).
Jim

Problem is...I have to start with something with a 5/16" Allen hex socket in it.

[Oz390]

Bryan, if your machining up a few and can make some "spares" I'd buy a few... lemmeno....

[Oz390]

And I don't think 50636 is a nut.  In the pic its more in the position of a bushing, or weird washer, which I've never seen.  And the part number is not in the AMK Guide to Ford Fasteners.

The drawings I've seen call out a jam nut, 33924, but every top I've seen if the serrated flange nut you show in the photo. I think it is 55738.

- Nut (x1) – Ford part #33924 (pg 180)
   o Hex Nut, Jam, 3/8-16 thd, .210/.227 thk, 9/16” hex
   o Note : This appears incorrect.  Most tops I have seen have a flange nut, more likely Ford part #55738 - Hex Flange Nut, 3/8-16 thd, .346/.363 thk, .771/.793 OD. 9/16” hex

AMK sells one real close.

http://amkproducts.com/bulk3.asp?part=B%2D12900


(image from AMK Products website - http://amkproducts.com/default.htm)

[bryancobb]

Thanks Richard.
It was my mistake the way the drawing shows the parts.  I was confused by all the clutter in this picture when I was PhotoShopping!  LOL