Topic: Durability & Maintenance on Natural Finish Suspension/Steering Parts

[BBs70fastback]

This is my first post!  (I have been lurking and reading for quite a while).  I am thoroughly enjoying the challenge and learning process of trying to restore my car in an original fashion, and would like to thank everyone for all of the knowledge that is shared here.

1970 Sportsroof 302 2V, Dearborn, built June 17, 1970
Context – planning car as an occasional driver, don’t know if this car will be shown (but it might someday).

I was considering trying to leave the natural finish suspension/steering parts unpainted as described in this forum.  My current plan was to spray a clear satin finish over the part, then treat with Boeshield or Corrosion X.  The goal being to create the most durability/least maintenance while having an original look.

1.  How long does Phosphate and Oil last before needing attention?  How much dust/dirt is attracted as a driver?  Do most people put Boeshield over the Phosphate and Oil finish?

2.  If I Phosphate and Oil a part, I assume I could not then spray a clear finish over it.  If adding a clear finish is the way to go, do you phosphate the part, skip the oiling, spray it with clear, then put on the Boeshield?

3.  If the bare metal part is treated with Boeshield or Corrosion X, generally how long will the treatment last before needing re-treated?  Again, how much dust/dirt is attracted as an occasional driver? My hope is that adding the clear finish to the process would gain me enough durability and time before maintenance is needed to justify the extra step.

4.  Is it common practice to put a clear finish over the parts that have been treated with gun bluing?  If not, then is Boeshield the only thing put over the gun bluing for protection?

5.  What is the most durable clear matte/satin finish to use?  (I have spray gun equipment but am learning about automotive paints). I have seen some comments about clear finishes yellowing in other contexts, and Jeff Speegle indicated in a prior post that the clear he used did not last very long.

6.  Is my plan of clear finish over a natural part, then boeshield, unrealistic for an occasionally driven car?  Should I just use a metal colored paint on those parts and “let the issue go”?  If so, what is most durable?  (the threads on metal colored paint seem to mainly discuss spray can paints.  Other threads indicate catalyzed paints should be used where possible for durability).

I am coach able, so if I have put too many questions in one post, please let me know. 

Thank you,

Barry

[tomtri66]

First, welcome!  I hope you find this forum as educational and enjoyable as I have in the short time I have been a member.

I am by no means an expert but from what I read here it looks like the trend is moving away from clear coating natural finish parts and using metal colored paints.  I believe the concours rules are changing to reflect this.  Jeff, Charles, and others can shed more light on this, but I think Boeshield or CorrosionX over natural finish is the way to go.  I have not tried these products yet, but just ordered CorrosionX and I am looking forward to trying it.

I am also curious if Boeshield or CorrosionX is a suitable oil for phosphate and oil finish.

Tom

[CharlesTurner]

Been using Boeshield for a little while and it seems to hold up well.  The key to coating any natural metal part is removing all the moisture from the surface.  Simply wiping a piece with a rag will never get all the water out.  I use a small map-gas torch to heat up the parts so I can see the water evaporating off.  Only then will I coat with Boeshield.  I've bought shark-hide, but have not used it yet.

For phosphate/oil, I've been soaking parts in motor oil for 24 hours after phosphating and have not had problems with rust afterward, so I generally do not coat them.  Maybe use a little spray cosmoline to freshen them up if needed.

[J_Speegle]

Did the clear coat for many years (still use it on one item) but in general I always had problems over time

Even in a pretty dry part of the country I found that the clear often trapped moisture under the clear allowing rust and peeling over time. And since the part is painted it was not easy to touch up on the car like you can if something develops with oil coating

Other times the clear would yellow, peel or chip over time leading to more maintenance

Today I'll heat the part before it goes into the oil to make sure any moisture has left the part and allow the oil to penetrate as much as possible below the surface

Just what I've learned

[chockostang]

The Clear over blasted/cleaned metal is a Rust Bucket that you won't see till all is bolt on, and ready to show.

Clean your metal well (Media blast till pristine clean)  Wire bush agressively (Cast-Steel only--No Aluminum) , using a drill (Burns up moisture) coat with NOX RUST.

The Products mentioned to coat the bare parts have been around for years,  Different names, Coat with a wax agent,  Look bare after dried.

This is a system we have used for years. 

Will this last for ever---What Does??  Recoat, keep track of the areas,  Bare metal parts will stay nice for years, look brand new.

Dan @ Chockostang

[BBs70fastback]

Thank you for all of the responses! I have purchased some Boeshield at Sears and will try it.  (I am loving using evaporust on my rusty suspension pieces, I call it my magic potion  ).

[bbs428]

Nice info here, as I painted and cleared some of my bare metal parts not to long ago.

I can see I'll have to redo them the correct way. 
I never knew about the moisture under the clear/painted metal causing problems down the road.

Learning something new everyday!   

Good luck on the restore.  Great questions.

[68 S Code]

Have had some good luck with urethane clear over phosphate but it turns the phoshate color very dark which kind of defeats the purpose. Then you have to deal with the clear chipping as you tighten down the fastener. So with phospated parts I think it is just best left alone and oiled. I like the idea of just letting it sit in motor oil to really soak in. If the part starts to develope some rust just toss it into Evaporust and rust will disappear but phosphate wont. Re-oil and reassemble. I had some hinges done 20 years ago and they just started to show some rust maybe two years ago (non climate controlled garage). I had them redone but should have just dipped them in eveaporust.

[Bob Gaines]

Nice info here, as I painted and cleared some of my bare metal parts not to long ago.

I can see I'll have to redo them the correct way. 
I never knew about the moisture under the clear/painted metal causing problems down the road.

Learning something new everyday!   

Good luck on the restore.  Great questions.

You will be surprised at how much moisture wicks out of the metal once it is exposed to a propane touch(what I use to heat the metal). When you see it you will understand why the part will rust if just clear coated .