Topic: Tie Rod Assembly ID ?

[Brian Conway]

Last of some steering parts and I don't remember the how or where.  I think 65 or 66 manual, San Jose and C code, but, not sure.  The outer tie rod is marked with the number 12 over 300 and a C over 2 both over a bell shaped symbol.  The dust boot; G S and the numbers 12-18 metal ring and no zerk.  The adjusting sleeve nuts are marked with a capital letter A.  The long inner tie rod has no markings.  The dust boot; the numbers 12-18 and 31 metal ring and no zerk .  Thanks for the help.  Brian

[jwc66k]

The same marking on the boot were on my Oct 65 San Jose build "K" Fastback. The NPD replacements are marked C5ZZ-3332-A which is not correct. I sanded them off. Haven't cleaned up the tie rod ends but found a dab of light blue paint on the ends. Speegle said he was unaware of the blue paint when I asked him about it.
Jim

[chockostang]

Only thing I can tell you about the Tie Rod,  it's a aftermarket 65 66 V8 Power Steering DRIVERS SIDE piece.  VERY Easy to see in the curved Outers,  the Bigger 638 Coupler.

Dan @ Chockostang

[jwc66k]

That's not an aftermarket tie rod, it's factory. The factory clamps had that raised "hump" around the clamp fits over  raised dimples in the sleeves for 360 deg alignment of the clamp to tighten at the correct angle. That "hump" applies to all 64-66 tie rod adjustment assemblies whether V8, I6, power or manual steering. There were different size tie rod ends for different applications however.
Jim

[CharlesTurner]

Agree with Jim, looks original to me.

Other than the boot, can't recall any markings that would ID it definitively as an OEM part.  The design and characteristics of the arm are what help rule out it being aftermarket.

[jwc66k]

Charles, the markings on the boots I referred to are from a relatively untouched Oct 65 build San Jose 66 "K" Fastback. Just reporting what I saw. I intend to clean-up the four tie rod ends this summer just to see if I can.
Jim

[CharlesTurner]

Charles, the markings on the boots I referred to are from a relatively untouched Oct 65 build San Jose 66 "K" Fastback. Just reporting what I saw. I intend to clean-up the four tie rod ends this summer just to see if I can.
Jim

From an aesthetic perspective, can't see any reason why some good rust-free tie rods couldn't be restored to look like new.  The only downside is you might be restoring worn parts that will make the car feel a little loose if you plan to drive it.  NOS ones usually go for $75-150 ea as an alternative.  The outers usually wear before the inners.

Ford serviced the boots if any of yours are worn.  I have a couple sets if you need any.

[Bob Gaines]

From an aesthetic perspective, can't see any reason why some good rust-free tie rods couldn't be restored to look like new.  The only downside is you might be restoring worn parts that will make the car feel a little loose if you plan to drive it.  NOS ones usually go for $75-150 ea as an alternative.  The outers usually wear before the inners.

Ford serviced the boots if any of yours are worn.  I have a couple sets if you need any.

Just to add to Charles post is that you can typically tell if they are worn out by any looseness in the post when moving back and forth. I will not waste the time restoring a original (what I do most of the time) if there is any play what so ever. Not 100% assurance but pretty close. Bob

[chockostang]

The same marking on the boot were on my Oct 65 San Jose build "K" Fastback. The NPD replacements are marked C5ZZ-3332-A which is not correct. I sanded them off. Haven't cleaned up the tie rod ends but found a dab of light blue paint on the ends. Speegle said he was unaware of the blue paint when I asked him about it.
Jim

Brian,

Just now got back to this post.

Yes, it is 65 66 V8 DRIVERS Side, POWER STEERING  Tie rod assembly.

None of the originals were Zerted--As you see the hole for the Zert,  either it is a Repo, or it was drilled, rendering it,  NON STOCK.

So,  where are you in this transaction??

Weld in the hole??  Put in a Zert??, Get one with no Zert.  Remember,  No Numbers on these.

Dan @ Chockostang

[jwc66k]

Put a plug in the Zerk hole. I think it's MCA approved (Charles, Jeff - ?). I got real good results with beadblasting and phosphating four center links and three idler arms by cleaning the area around where the "post" is and applying a lot of blue silicon RTV and let it dry for a month before starting. I intend to do the same RTV trick on the four tie rod ends I removed from my 66 "K" Fastback. I got a Shelby guy interested in my results (he already got one center link and two idler arms done). There's a couple of other steps I left out, can't reveal all my tricks (heh heh heh).
Jim

[J_Speegle]

Put a plug in the Zerk hole. I think it's MCA approved (Charles, Jeff - ?). ............

Approved ??  At least it will not have a zert but you will still get dinged a little since originals didn't have the hole or a plug in the hole

[Bob Gaines]

You could improvise and disguise the plug to make it more invisible . Allen plug flush ,covered with some epoxy, and painted metal color. Just another option.Bob

[Brian Conway]

Thanks fellas.  What appears to be a hole is actually a marking pencil dot.  So now at least I know the where and what and back on the shelf it goes.  Brian