Topic: Plenum box resto

[ChrisV289]

Since we are on the subject, what color should the squirrel cage be?  I know it isn't seen but I thought maybe since I have the whole thing apart right now I should perhaps paint it the correct color.  Right now it is black which I don't know if it is right or if I should care....Also there is a stamp in yellow on the top of my fiberglass case.  I can post a picture of it later.  I'm not sure what it says exactly but it is the original fiberglass case. 

[sparky65]

Also there is a stamp in yellow on the top of my fiberglass case.  I can post a picture of it later.  I'm not sure what it says exactly but it is the original fiberglass case.

Probably a date code.  There was one printed in yellow on mine and it seemed to make sense that it was a date code.

[CharlesTurner]

Since we are on the subject, what color should the squirrel cage be?  I know it isn't seen but I thought maybe since I have the whole thing apart right now I should perhaps paint it the correct color.  Right now it is black which I don't know if it is right or if I should care....Also there is a stamp in yellow on the top of my fiberglass case.  I can post a picture of it later.  I'm not sure what it says exactly but it is the original fiberglass case.

Squirrel cage for the heater motor was just bare steel, no paint.

[68 S Code]

Jeff you mentioned glue to coat the cardboard plenum. Any recomendations? Also I presume you brush it on not spray. I was thinking if clear model airplane dope would work. i remember building those wooden balsa airplaines back when i was a kid and you would dope the tissue paper over the skeleton. I believe it was also used on the balsa wood of large scale RC airplanes to coat the balsa before painting to seal the wood. Just a thought as I know its clear in color.

[jwc66k]

On simple rips where the two surfaces overlap, I use Elmer's Carpenters wood glue, the yellow stuff. Otherwise, almost any epoxy should work. The problem with epoxy is that it dries shiny. To waterproof the plenum, and the water shield use on the LH side behind the 66 instrument cluster, I use 3M ScotchGuard. It is absorbed and leaves no trace. I don't know if it's still available (I got two cans left) but as a water repellant it works great. Another product I'm thinking about using is Krylon 1311 Matte finish, aka flat. It's used on paintings and drawings as a protective covering.
Jim

[J_Speegle]

Any good white wood glue should work all of the produce needs to be absorbed into the cardboard. Would not even think of using epoxy - too hard to work into the cardboard, can produce a shinny surface (as mentioned) if you don't get it all in, and clean up would be a pain. You can add a little water to the wood glue to help it soak in or to spread it around a little. I coated all of the surface to improve the consistency of the look of the final product.  Wipe it clean off of metal surfaces before it dries.

As the cardboard becomes some what flexible with its well soaked (use just enough to make the areas that need work a little plyable, you can used wood box, sticks, drink cups.... in side the duct to push out or form it back to a more original shape if need be. Then just let it dry. Back side (inside) can be reinforced as long as everything stays out of the way of the moving parts (door)

Good luck

[ChrisV289]

Here's the stamping on mine...No clue what it says, obviously someone didn't stamp it very well 47 years ago...

[68 S Code]

Would you recommend washing it down with a damp sponge or rag first to get some of the dirt impurities out of the cardboard? Grungy from sitting on a garage floor or a dirty car for decades.

[jwc66k]

I use "Goof-Off" sparingly along with paint thinner as they evaporate quickly after the crud comes off. Basically anything that works without damaging a paper fiber constructed item.
Jim

[68 S Code]

Thanks for the tip.

[68 S Code]

Still need to clean the plenum per the suggestion but i found some wood glue (white) which is supposed to dry transparent. I'm thinking this should be the glue Jeff spoke of. You mentioned applying it with popsicle sticks? Thinning it down with water? Am I to assume one coat it enough or are we talking multiple coats?

[J_Speegle]

Still need to clean the plenum per the suggestion but i found some wood glue (white) which is supposed to dry transparent. I'm thinking this should be the glue Jeff spoke of. You mentioned applying it with popsicle sticks? Thinning it down with water? Am I to assume one coat it enough or are we talking multiple coats?

Used a cheap 1" paint brush to move the glue into the surface and my finger in some areas/corners. Only one coat since if left on top of the cardboard it will produce a shinny smooth surface and after the first coat it will not absorb any additional glue.

[68 S Code]

Jeff thanks. You're right after the first coat it would just build up and thats not the point. May give it a try friday.

[J_Speegle]

Jeff thanks. You're right after the first coat it would just build up and thats not the point. May give it a try friday.

At first smear/apply it to the back side where it will not be seen to get the feel for the stuff. Should be fun but a bit messy

[68 S Code]

At this point i will try cleaning it with some thinner. Im looking for a damaged donar plenum to practice on so I dont go right to the good one. Regretfully I had a bad which I threw out last year. Big mistake. Could have come in handy to make the patch and practice on.