Topic: 67 rocker moldings

[sparky65]

I have a question about the finish on the rocker moldings.  Were they a shiny chrome like finish or did they have a brushed or satin look?

[ruppstang]

It is a shiny like chrome but was anodized aluminum. Marty

[Bob Gaines]

It is a shiny like chrome but was anodized aluminum. Marty

It is called "brite dip anodized" it gives a shinier appearance compared to regular anodizing. Don't automatically assume that if you send your part out to be anodized it will come back looking like it is supposed to. The regular anodizing makes a shiny part look relatively dull. I have come across many platers that don't even know the difference or know there is a difference. Bob

[sparky65]

It is called "brite dip anodized" it gives a shinier appearance compared to regular anodizing. Don't automatically assume that if you send your part out to be anodized it will come back looking like it is supposed to. The regular anodizing makes a shiny part look relatively dull. I have come across many platers that don't even know the difference or know there is a difference. Bob

Wow much more complicated then I thought.  Just thought they needed to be polished.
I looked up bright dip anodizing and came up with the following information:

Bright Dip anodizing achieves a highly electro polish finish similar to the quality of plating. In contrast to plating, Bright Dip is a chemical process that brightens aluminum and does not leave deposits on the surface of the part. The degree of brightness is dependent on the type of alloy as well as the surface finish of the part. With some alloys making it more possible than others to get a reflective, mirror type of finish.

After aluminum is Bright Dipped, it can be anodized clear or dyed to a variety of colors. At this point, the anodized aluminum is not only bright, but also protected from corrosion, scratching, and fading by the anodizing process.

So whats the process here for restoring rocker moldings?  Straighten - Sand - Buff - Bright Dip - Clear Anodize
Does Bright Dipping take the place of the Buffing step or no?  Did the moldings get the clear anodize as well or just the bright dip?
Any other parts get this process?

[CharlesTurner]

From what I understand it is a very time-consuming process and it would probably be cheaper to buy NOS moldings.

[ruppstang]

That is what I found as well. Over $500 to restore them.

[Bob Gaines]

Wow much more complicated then I thought.  Just thought they needed to be polished.
I looked up bright dip anodizing and came up with the following information:
So whats the process here for restoring rocker moldings?  Straighten - Sand - Buff - Bright Dip - Clear Anodize
Does Bright Dipping take the place of the Buffing step or no?  Did the moldings get the clear anodize as well or just the bright dip?
Any other parts get this process?

You have to chemically strip the anodizing off first before repairing ,polishing etc. Sanding is labor intensive plus with the aggressive grit it takes to get through the anodizing you risk damaging the surface you are trying to restore or at least making it harder to bring it back. After preparing the trim it is brite dipped and then anodized as your Internet description indicates . If you try and polish and then anodize they come out dull and don't look right.  Believe me you are not the first person to contemplate this . I s a expensive process. One warning is that even with NOS trim parts you need to inspect the parts. In my search for NOS 68 Shelby front grill parts the vast majority that are NOS now after 40+ years have started to oxidize under the anodize coating. I always pull any trim out of the packaging most of the time to the sellers agreement to check . Bob

[sparky65]

You have to chemically strip the anodizing off first before repairing ,polishing etc. Sanding is labor intensive plus with the aggressive grit it takes to get through the anodizing you risk damaging the surface you are trying to restore or at least making it harder to bring it back. After preparing the trim it is brite dipped and then anodized as your Internet description indicates . If you try and polish and then anodize they come out dull and don't look right.  Believe me you are not the first person to contemplate this . I s a expensive process. One warning is that even with NOS trim parts you need to inspect the parts. In my search for NOS 68 Shelby front grill parts the vast majority that are NOS now after 40+ years have started to oxidize under the anodize coating. I always pull any trim out of the packaging most of the time to the sellers agreement to check . Bob

Bob,
From your description it sounds like that most of the time and cost is associated with the prep and not the actual bright dipping and anodizing process?  I'm going to call around and see what I can find out about the cost of bright dipping and anodizing.  If you dont polish before bright dipping what is the last step?  2000 grit sandpaper?

I was thinking about what everyone has said and did some research on NOS and repro moldings.  It does seem like NOS moldings are one of the more available NOS items at least the left side.  The right side seems less available.  Repro's sound like junk.  I'll add NOS moldings to my swap meet list but in the mean time I may try to fix the ones I have.  Ive had some practice fixing the stainless trim, it seems like aluminum would be easier to work with once the anodizing is removed.  Depending on the cost of bright dipping and anodizing and how good they look, I might finish them with a clear coat spray and install them temporary till a suitable replacement can be found.  Then again the spring swap meet season will probably be here before I ever get around to fixing them. 

[Bob Gaines]

Bob,
From your description it sounds like that most of the time and cost is associated with the prep and not the actual bright dipping and anodizing process?  I'm going to call around and see what I can find out about the cost of bright dipping and anodizing.  If you dont polish before bright dipping what is the last step?  2000 grit sandpaper?

I was thinking about what everyone has said and did some research on NOS and repro moldings.  It does seem like NOS moldings are one of the more available NOS items at least the left side.  The right side seems less available.  Repro's sound like junk.  I'll add NOS moldings to my swap meet list but in the mean time I may try to fix the ones I have.  Ive had some practice fixing the stainless trim, it seems like aluminum would be easier to work with once the anodizing is removed.  Depending on the cost of bright dipping and anodizing and how good they look, I might finish them with a clear coat spray and install them temporary till a suitable replacement can be found.  Then again the spring swap meet season will probably be here before I ever get around to fixing them. 

I can't emphasize enough the need to inspect any NOS mouldings for any minor oxidation that developes under the surface of the brite dip anodizing. There is no use paying a premium for a NOS part and have them look bad after you have paid for them and taken them home. Even the clear plastic that some of the NOS service parts came in will hide blemishes if not taken out and inspected closely. Don't ask me how I know.Bob

[sparky65]

I can't emphasize enough the need to inspect any NOS mouldings for any minor oxidation that developes under the surface of the brite dip anodizing. There is no use paying a premium for a NOS part and have them look bad after you have paid for them and taken them home. Even the clear plastic that some of the NOS service parts came in will hide blemishes if not taken out and inspected closely. Don't ask me how I know.Bob

I appreciate that.  I usually try have another set of eyes with me.