Topic: Best Way to replicate factory sound deadener and undercoat?

[jtfx6552]

The inside of my 1/4s are in epoxy, Yay! Here is a pic when they were still a little wet. They aren't so glossy now.



Anyway I'd like to spray on the closest thing I can get to the factory sound deadener per the weld and sealant manual before I weld the 1/4s on the car. Did Ford use the same stuff as the sound deadener inside the 1/4s and under the front fenders?

Closest I've seen pictures if is some 3M seam sealer and undercoating shown on the VA Mustang blog. Not sure where they used which product? I guess I'm more interested in the undercoating at this point?

Virginia Classic Mustang Blog: Early 1965 Mustang 289 HiPo Convertible Update

I can't seem to find the guns that spray them online anywhere to get an idea on what they cost? I'd hate to have to spend hundreds on a gun or guns to use only once...

The text from the blog says "The sealer has now been applied to the front area on our 65 K code Mustang convertible.  We are very pleased with the results.

We used 3M™ Ultrapro™ Sprayable Seam Sealer.  It is 3M™ part number 8374.  This sealer is only available in a gray color, but we chose to use it not only because of its texture, but also due to its great durability.  It provides great adhesion.  After the splash shields, outer shock tower covers and other parts were installed, the area was prepared by sanding and cleaning. The sprayable seam sealer must be applied with the special spray gun which is also available from 3M™.  This seam sealer can and should be top coated, so after drying, we applied 3M™ No Cleanup Waterbased Undercoating.  This is also used with a spray gun.  You don't use the special spray gun like the one for the sealer, but it is not an aerosol.   We chose this product after spraying test panels to achieve the "look" and texture that we thought best duplicated the original sealer.  Since durability and quality are also very important goals in our Mustang restorations, we have done our own little tests in this area too.  We have found that this product holds up extremely well."



Thoughts appreciated...

[Bob Gaines]

The inside of my 1/4s are in epoxy, Yay! Here is a pic when they were still a little wet. They aren't so glossy now.



Anyway I'd like to spray on the closest thing I can get to the factory sound deadener per the weld and sealant manual before I weld the 1/4s on the car. Did Ford use the same stuff as the sound deadener inside the 1/4s and under the front fenders?

Closest I've seen pictures if is some 3M seam sealer and undercoating shown on the VA Mustang blog. Not sure where they used which product? I guess I'm more interested in the undercoating at this point?

Virginia Classic Mustang Blog: Early 1965 Mustang 289 HiPo Convertible Update

I can't seem to find the guns that spray them online anywhere to get an idea on what they cost? I'd hate to have to spend hundreds on a gun or guns to use only once...

The text from the blog says "The sealer has now been applied to the front area on our 65 K code Mustang convertible.  We are very pleased with the results.

We used 3M™ Ultrapro™ Sprayable Seam Sealer.  It is 3M™ part number 8374.  This sealer is only available in a gray color, but we chose to use it not only because of its texture, but also due to its great durability.  It provides great adhesion.  After the splash shields, outer shock tower covers and other parts were installed, the area was prepared by sanding and cleaning. The sprayable seam sealer must be applied with the special spray gun which is also available from 3M™.  This seam sealer can and should be top coated, so after drying, we applied 3M™ No Cleanup Waterbased Undercoating.  This is also used with a spray gun.  You don't use the special spray gun like the one for the sealer, but it is not an aerosol.   We chose this product after spraying test panels to achieve the "look" and texture that we thought best duplicated the original sealer.  Since durability and quality are also very important goals in our Mustang restorations, we have done our own little tests in this area too.  We have found that this product holds up extremely well."



Thoughts appreciated...

The sound deadener around the spring covers is too thick compared to a typical application but that is just in my opinion. It is possible that it could be that heavy but not typical IMHO.  If it was sprayed as thick as you did there would be overspray all over the spring coils and suspension parts too if you are trying to be historically correct. They didn't tape anything off and so it would not follow that there would not be any overspray of the deadener on as heavy of a application as you have sprayed. Bob

[Brant]

The sound deadener around the spring covers is too thick compared to a typical application but that is just in my opinion. It is possible that it could be that heavy but not typical IMHO.  If it was sprayed as thick as you did there would be overspray all over the spring coils and suspension parts too if you are trying to be historically correct. They didn't tape anything off and so it would not follow that there would not be any overspray of the deadener on as heavy of a application as you have sprayed. Bob

The amount and thickness depends upon the production time and plant.  This is an Aug. '64 Dearborn car and typical of what we found around this period.

I believe the OP is more concerned about the gun to spray this with, and I agree that if you are only going to use it once, it may be difficult to justify the purchase.  You may want to check at your local professional paint supply stores to check cost.  I cannot remember the exact cost right now, but I believe it is around $300.

You may also be able to find a local shop that may have a gun to spray this.  I'm sure there are other alternatives too.  This is just what we found to work well in terms of the proper look and very nice durability.

[jtfx6552]

The amount and thickness depends upon the production time and plant.  This is an Aug. '64 Dearborn car and typical of what we found around this period.

I believe the OP is more concerned about the gun to spray this with, and I agree that if you are only going to use it once, it may be difficult to justify the purchase.  You may want to check at your local professional paint supply stores to check cost.  I cannot remember the exact cost right now, but I believe it is around $300.

You may also be able to find a local shop that may have a gun to spray this.  I'm sure there are other alternatives too.  This is just what we found to work well in terms of the proper look and very nice durability.

Can you elaborate on which is the sprayable seam sealer, and which is the under coating, or is all the seam sealer hidden by the under coating?

And also the blog says " we applied 3M™ No Cleanup Waterbased Undercoating.  This is also used with a spray gun.  You don't use the special spray gun like the one for the sealer, but it is not an aerosol.  " Is that with an HVLP gun?

[Brant]

Can you elaborate on which is the sprayable seam sealer, and which is the under coating, or is all the seam sealer hidden by the under coating?

And also the blog says " we applied 3M™ No Cleanup Waterbased Undercoating.  This is also used with a spray gun.  You don't use the special spray gun like the one for the sealer, but it is not an aerosol.  " Is that with an HVLP gun?

The sprayable seam sealer is used with the special gun.  This seam sealer is gray and topcoated with the 3M™ No Cleanup Waterbased Undercoating.  This undercoating is not an aerosol in that the can is not pressurized.  You do need this nozzle to spray it, but it is not a specialized gun like the one needed for the seam sealer.

[Bob Gaines]

The amount and thickness depends upon the production time and plant.  This is an Aug. '64 Dearborn car and typical of what we found around this period.

I believe the OP is more concerned about the gun to spray this with, and I agree that if you are only going to use it once, it may be difficult to justify the purchase.  You may want to check at your local professional paint supply stores to check cost.  I cannot remember the exact cost right now, but I believe it is around $300.

You may also be able to find a local shop that may have a gun to spray this.  I'm sure there are other alternatives too.  This is just what we found to work well in terms of the proper look and very nice durability.

Brant that may be so but I doubt you could say the same for 0% sound deadner overspray on the surrounding parts etc. given the patterns . Bob

[jtfx6552]

The sprayable seam sealer is used with the special gun.  This seam sealer is gray and topcoated with the 3M™ No Cleanup Waterbased Undercoating.  This undercoating is not an aerosol in that the can is not pressurized.  You do need this nozzle to spray it, but it is not a specialized gun like the one needed for the seam sealer.

Great Brant, Thanks!

Did you use the water based undercoating inside the trunk on 1/4s, or was the original stuff still there?

I wish I had measured the thickness on the original stuff before it was removed...

[Brant]

Great Brant, Thanks!

Did you use the water based undercoating inside the trunk on 1/4s, or was the original stuff still there?

I wish I had measured the thickness on the original stuff before it was removed...

You can achieve the same look there, as both products are paintable.  You may have to play around with the textures and stuff though, depending on exactly what look you want.  If you don't have the original to go by, maybe a car around the same production time and plant can be found.  I've seen lots of variations.

[J_Speegle]

Believe Ford used the same asbestos sound deadener in the front and rear wheel wells as in the trunk and interior areas.  Have not seen any indications yet that Ford applied the sound deadener on the quarter panels before they were installed on the car until 1970


Agree that for patterns and volume of application you need to look specifically to cars built about the same time and plant.  Perfect example is the picture you posted - the patterns and amount could vary allot if you were building a car from another time period or plant

As for product it seems that when ever we get something that works it becomes unavailable soon after or it works well in one area and not as well for a different application. Some need multiple coats to get the thickness your looking for and many dissolve the earlier coats if you use multiple coats.

One hint that was given to me by a couple of builders was that they found it beneficial to cool or chill the product before spraying to achieve a thicker coat and better build up