Topic: 1966 Shelby GT-350 underside of Hood paint

[evantugby]

The all metal 66 Shelby hoods typically had body color underneath. The fiberglass hoods with steel inner structure were typically painted semigloss black underneath probably from the supplier. The top side was painted and what body color overspray would extend underneath when the edges were painted. First off I don't know the ability level of your painter. With that said single stage is what concours restorers use to replicate the factory paint job. Unfortunately you are painting a metallic color which is very tricky to paint under normal conditions so it doesn't look splotchy. With single stage that issue is multiplied. If your painter doesn't paint single stage typically expect problems if you shoot the metallic paint.  The orange peel is what the concours crowd is looking for. Some painters have been able to manipulate the base coat clear coat systems to also get convincing factory type orange peel that is consistent over the entire paint job. I would suggest sticking with the base coat clear given the color . Regardless of if you are going for orange peel or a slick paint job given the color the base coat clear coat will give the least amount of headaches IMO. Keep in mind that if you went with the single stage most painters would want to strip all of the base coat off for a reliable finish and also to maintain a product warranty from most paint system companies. The labor to do that would be substantial at this point . Just my opinion others my think differently.

great feedback sir!  Thank you. 

[J_Speegle]

Back to the paint question:  The paint guide in the library doesn't mention under hood paint.  I also know that Carroll Shelby replaced factory Ford metal hoods with fiberglass hoods so I wanted to know how the underside of the hood would have been painted. 

The Guide is for the undercarriage, though I got a little out of bounds in a few places since things in one area of the car affect others. Doing all the paint details in one article was more than I wanted to do and the finished size would have created uploading and storage issues

With Jeff's comment about "over restoring" that led me on another path to get the paint correct and not appear over-restored.  Therefore I am asking what would the experts do to get this paint right?   

Along with the discussion of the base coat the stripes would be applied like originally - once the car was fully assembled. Makes it allot easier to obtain IMHO the faded edges in some areas, oversprays and blow outs in other area as found on original cars and provide the look of sprayed on the car not just on the part.

Have plenty of pictures and there are trends during 66 as to what and how things were masked and sprayed

[evantugby]

The all metal 66 Shelby hoods typically had body color underneath. The fiberglass hoods with steel inner structure were typically painted semigloss black underneath probably from the supplier. The top side was painted and what body color overspray would extend underneath when the edges were painted. First off I don't know the ability level of your painter. With that said single stage is what concours restorers use to replicate the factory paint job. Unfortunately you are painting a metallic color which is very tricky to paint under normal conditions so it doesn't look splotchy. With single stage that issue is multiplied. If your painter doesn't paint single stage typically expect problems if you shoot the metallic paint.  The orange peel is what the concours crowd is looking for. Some painters have been able to manipulate the base coat clear coat systems to also get convincing factory type orange peel that is consistent over the entire paint job. I would suggest sticking with the base coat clear given the color . Regardless of if you are going for orange peel or a slick paint job given the color the base coat clear coat will give the least amount of headaches IMO. Keep in mind that if you went with the single stage most painters would want to strip all of the base coat off for a reliable finish and also to maintain a product warranty from most paint system companies. The labor to do that would be substantial at this point . Just my opinion others my think differently.

Thoughts? To much over spray?

[Bob Gaines]

Thoughts? To much over spray?

Too little or no black and too much overspray . The underside was blacked out prior to painting the top side. It was probably done at the hood mfg. You will get a certain amount of overspray on the bottom side from painting the edges the hood and scoop opening .There is heavy almost solid body color about 2 inches or so in from the edge fading out to nothing farther in . It depended a lot on the painter.

[J_Speegle]

Thoughts? To much over spray?

Before the exterior was applied a base of semi-gloss black would have been applied so the overspray would have been over it.

From what you showed it would be one of the more overspray than I've seen on many examples but would represent the far end of the range of possibilities IMHO. If thinking of copying it on your car I would dial it back a bit

[edwardgt350]

any pics of correct hood scoop overspray?

[J_Speegle]

any pics of correct hood scoop overspray?

IMHO no one correct but like many things what was in the typical range I think is what your looking for. Also the type of hood and exterior affects how well the overspray will show up or will be noticed

Add to that the reflection from  the fenders or cowl when you try and get a picture of the hood on a car like this example. Can't see the ovespray from the reflection from the sun.

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=12159.msg73744#msg73744


Then you have all the black cars and its not much better - possibly worst on those

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=6025.msg34012#msg34012


Will try and post some examples tomorrow of some examples after the early cars

[evantugby]

Before the exterior was applied a base of semi-gloss black would have been applied so the overspray would have been over it.

From what you showed it would be one of the more overspray than I've seen on many examples but would represent the far end of the range of possibilities IMHO. If thinking of copying it on your car I would dial it back a bit

This is my kar.  I thought it a bit much overspray too but Not enough to have it corrrected.

[J_Speegle]

Here are three pictures of some of the overspray. Difficult to take a picture with the hood on the car out in the light. White seems to provide the best contrast though much of the paint shows up as a misting over greater areas of the underside surfaces

On this example the left hand side of the picture appears a fairly straight sharp edge but that is due to the bend in the sub structure and how the overspray got applied to it

Though I rarely post pictures of restored examples (first two) but in this case felt that best showed the details discussed






In the example the green arrow point to a light area that is part of a repair. The other arrows highlight the original overspray



Hope this helps

If you meant to post a picture in your last post I'm not seeing it

[Bob Gaines]

This is my kar.  I thought it a bit much overspray too but Not enough to have it corrrected.

As we have stated before in other threads restoration is all about choices.

[J_Speegle]

As we have stated before in other threads restoration is all about choices.

+1 And will add that if you choose the show the car it's going to be about what the judges think is too much or not enough.

But of course bottom line is its your car, your choose be happy with what ever you choose

[edwardgt350]

a green car would have green overspray in the hood scoop area. what was typically found on dealer added stripes?
white overspray onto the green overspray?
i guess it all depended on the attention to masking that each dealership preformed.
any typical pattern seen?
thanks

[J_Speegle]

a green car would have green overspray in the hood scoop area. what was typically found on dealer added stripes?
white overspray onto the green overspray?

i guess it all depended on the attention to masking that each dealership preformed.
any typical pattern seen?

If there was overspray (dealer didn't mask well) you might see a limited amount in those areas closest to the location of the stripe. Since the dealer (dealer installed stripe) I would guess that they would take more care and mask off the area better (very limited to no overspray) than the Shelby plant did since they might be taking more care and that it was not in an assembly line sort of process

Most of the time when you see unrestored cars you don't have any idea if the stripes were ordered that way or were added

[Bob Gaines]

a green car would have green overspray in the hood scoop area. what was typically found on dealer added stripes?
white overspray onto the green overspray?
i guess it all depended on the attention to masking that each dealership preformed.
any typical pattern seen?
thanks

Of course if showing in concours the burden of proof would be on the owner to prove the stripes were applied at the dealer before the car was delivered to the first owner if no stripes were indicated from the factory. A lot of cars did not get factory stripes in 66. The yardstick is how the car was delivered new from the dealer. I only mention this because of all of the original details you are trying to learn for the upcoming SAAC concours. 

[edwardgt350]

shelby invoice does not list stripes. dealer invoices seem near impossible to obtain.